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-   -   biggest spacers without changing studs (http://www.the370z.com/nissan-370z-general-discussions/55739-biggest-spacers-without-changing-studs.html)

Footloose301 07-31-2012 08:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MattP725 (Post 1848007)
Lots of people like the built in studs (call them V2 for purposes of this thread) and have never had an issue however I chose the extended studs for the following reasons...

Less mounting points hence less chance for error... with bolt on spacers you have two sets of surfaces needing to be bolted down
Increasing number of studs from 6 to 12 per wheel... again more areas to potentially fail
Inner lugs hidden and harder to check torque... potential to come loose without you seeing

Not the end of the world to get the bolt ons but I'd rather spend more time at install knowing I am secure... it didn't take long at all to replace all the studs and the price difference was negligible in either direction.

I'm calling Nissan. They ripped me off. I have 5 studs per wheel!

NuffZed 07-31-2012 09:13 PM

Wheee! a forum member did a great write-up in the DIY section on how to do the H&R spacers and how to switch out the studs too which is very easy to do. :tup:

If you don't possess a garage, the DIY ability or the tools a shop with a lift should take between 1 to 2 hours to do the whole car for you. Wheee! and I did my spacers and new intakes in 3 1/2 hours in his garage.

Personally I wouldn't try any size spacer without longer studs.

Grindkiezer 02-06-2013 01:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sfearl1 (Post 1752833)
I'm on 20mm up front, 25mm in the back. They are bolt-on spacers, not stud-replacement. I got mine from Z1 and they have been on the car since last December :tup:

I'm running the same set up but I've noticed that my steering wheel seems to vibrate a little now. It's not because my wheels are out of balance so I'm wondering if it's the spacers themselves

DEpointfive0 02-06-2013 01:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Grindkiezer (Post 2150054)
I'm running the same set up but I've noticed that my steering wheel seems to vibrate a little now. It's not because my wheels are out of balance so I'm wondering if it's the spacers themselves

It's an install problem, I don't mean to be an *******...


You have to put anti seize on the back, install them, drive around, do a bit of wheel shimmy-ing to put stress on them and squeeze some of the anti-seize out, THEN relighted after 50 miles or so

CDepp 02-06-2013 07:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DJ-of-E (Post 1752772)
I would not use the stock studs for this application. You could get away with 5mm, but I wouldn't run them hard. I concur with Hithere to either use the bolts that come with the spacers (H&R's are harder than stock) or get some ARP bolts and open lugs.

Really? I thought aftermarket would be softer. Harder ones would be more prone to snapping off under stress.

Side story: Good pipe wrenches can be bent almost into a loop - they're softer steel and won't break. Ridgid (Elyria, OH) has 48" steel wrench in their warranty department that was torqued with a fork lift on an oil platform. Wouldn't break, so they kept pushing until the thing looked like a retarded pretzel. Then they wanted it replace, even though it worked as intended (designed not to shatter).

Felix 808 02-06-2013 10:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Th3 On3 (Post 1847761)
So why are v2 spacers not good?!

Because you can break a stud at the hub, & not know it until you take the wheel off.

cheshirecat 02-06-2013 10:34 AM

H&R 20mm front, 25mm back bolt-on spacers. No wobble, easy setup. As another person said, bolt them on, run them for approx 50 miles, then take the wheels back off and re-torque.

You don't have to replace the studs if you don't want to. Literally hundreds of cars have used this setup without an issue.

Even the Porsche GT3 runs spacers in the rear. Don't worry about it.


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