Wheel jacks...
 

First of all...I DID A SEARCH!!!

For all the lowered Zs with kits, what wheel jacks are you using and where did you get em?

My 6MT MB is kitted and before I put on the swift springs I have decided on (after I move away from these speedbumps at my condo), I'm gonna need a usable jack to take with me on super long trips.

What are you using and where did you get it. Im thinking I'll have damn near NO clearance and my stock jack will be worthless.

Thanks.

put a brick in front of the wheel on what ever side you want to jack up then roll on top of the brick, should give you a good amount of clearance to use what ever kind of jack you want.

Criiiiiick...criiiiiiiiiiick......

This is a joke right???????:icon14:

:bowrofl:

Harbor freight low profile steel jack. Got it for around 70-80 on sale.

Came here to say this. It works great. One tip I have is to get a cheapo hockey puck at Walmart or something to put between the metal pad and the car as to protect the surfaces of both.

Low Profile Floor Jack - 2 Ton, Rapid Pump® Jack

Nice. Thanks kid!


I assume you have had good success with yours?

And I assume that is the keep at home version as I see the huge jack pole. What about someone that makes a smaller version. I mean with lowering cars so popular over the years, it seems only natural that Somme would have made a smaller portable jack for emergencies. If not...I guess I've just made my money!!

For emergencies, won't the scissor jack in your trunk work in a pinch?

Oh, absolutely. It's a very solid jack, with no complaints on my end. The lifting arm and pedal are very good and respond well to how much you want to lift, and the knob to lower the jack is sensitive enough to allow any desired speed of lowering. It's pretty heavy, mind you, but it's a small price to pay for such a good value on jacks.

There are two caveats with it, though. I'm still not sure what I'm gonna do when I go to install coilovers on my car, and the jack won't be able to reach the front center jack point. I can jack up the sides no problem, but to place a jack stand under them, without the special jackpoint jackstands that cost an arm and a leg, is an issue. I might end up getting 4 ramps or something to place under the tires after I lift up each side of the car. And for brake jobs, just lift up one wheel at a time. (This issue applies to all jacks.)

The second issue I have is that the lifting arm is wider than most jacks, due to the extreme low profile. As such, it contacts the pipes for my HKS exhaust since the pipes come in like a V-shape when seen from the rear of the car. My solution is to just use a piece of 2x4 wood to give it enough clearance.

None of these issues devalue the liking I have for this jack, however. It does it's job brilliantly, and for such a crazy good value when on sale.

Look at the low ramps, lower jacks and there is a lot of information in the DIY section concerning that issue.

I have the exact same jack and can agree with you on ever single point Alstann. Even though I'm still at stock ride height the Nismo front end means I can't get to the front jack point without some help. All I normally do is get the spare tire jack out of the back, lift the front on one side slightly and then presto enough clearance to for the real jack to get to the front jack point.

Good idea. I got myself a couple of 2 X 10's, cut them each in 4 pieces and angled a few sides. Once screwed togther in pairs, it gets the car up high enough to get a standard jack under. I have 4 of these and I also use them for helping the Z up on my Rhino ramps for oil changes. I am on Swift/Koni.

http://www.the370z.com/members/onzed...ps-helpers.jpg

http://www.the370z.com/members/onzed...ps-helpers.jpg

I know about the RaceRamps and what not, but I was looking for a solution so that I could vertically jack up my car in the garage. I am moving to a community that restricts working on cars in the driveway. Stupid, I know. :shakes head:

The issue isn't with the low profile of the jack, but how far back the garage jack point is. My LP jack makes it far back enough now, while clipping the chin spoiler. When lowered, I would imagine this to be impossible.

Exactly my issue as well. My car's chin spoiler contacts the low profile jack, enough that I have to get a secondary small jack to jack up a side of the car first. It's irritating enough, haha. To jack up my car on 4 stands requires me spending nearly 20-25 minutes. Not good enough. And yup, this is only gonna be exponentially harder once lowered on coilovers.

The more I think about it, I think just simply lifting the car one corner at a time, and then sliding a SUV rhino ramp underneath will be good enough. Each ramp supports like 3 tons, and since they are underneath the tires, I would fully trust the car to not fall off. Also, even though the ramps only lift like 10-12 inches off the ground, they lift the tires, which by nature means the body of the car is higher than the tires. I could even place some sheets of thick wood underneath the ramps for even more clearance.

The other solution is to keep using the spare scissor jack to lift the car enough to get to the jack point, but I really wanna figure out a quicker solution.

The Jackpoint Jackstands are indeed a super clever design, but my problem with them is they only lift like 12 inches off the ground. Also, they cost waaaaaay too much for stands, in my opinion.

http://www.tomiokaracing.com/index.p...er-slopes.html

i use this ramp and a low profile craftsman jack with a puck on the beam

Damm that thing is way heavy , Tool weight: 93.3
Low Profile Floor Jack - 2 Ton, Rapid Pump® Jack

I have been looking at this myself.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...5428_200345428

Good feedback. But aside for home use, and DIY projects, I'm talking about preventative tow truck damage! The jack points obviously are going to be an issue when you are stuck on the side of the road. With the relative small size of the scissor jack in most cars, I would think there was a mini low profile jack on the market. If I need to get my inner "as seen on tv" on, then I will. But it only seems logical that this would have been done YEARS ago....you know?

Hm, I presume you're talking about a situation where you would need to lift the car to allow the tow truck trailer arm to reach your rear wheels, so it can dinghy tow the car? Unless you are touching the ground with your coilovers, I don't think it would be too much of an issue.

Concerning towing it up onto a bed of a tow truck, that is a different story. You better hope the truck has some long pieces of wood!

That second jack seems pretty nice. I would note however, that it's minimum height is almost one inch higher than the HF jack, and the max height is less as well. That's the key right there - that means the jack is shorter and as such, it might have an issue reaching the center jack point properly, especially with lowered cars. Then again, I had this low profile jack before I started doing anything with my Z that required lifting it up, so I could be totally mistaken.

No alstan, Im talking about a miniature Low profile jack. We all have scissor jacks that came with our car, but if our car is lowered, we can kiss that jack goodbye right? So I'm talking about a mini-lighter weight low profile jack. One with a longer lift face to reach the jack point, and maybe a 12inch removable jack arm. So for weight purposes you can either remove the scissor jack from the truck, and either find a way to fit it by the wheel, or stash in the cargo net...if you have one. In a non descript long bag of course.

Our worst nightmare having a lowered car is getting a flat and trying to jack it (naked in San Diego!) right? So instead of probably having to get a tow truck over a simple flat, why not have a smaller jack? Right?

Ah, ok. Got confused there for a bit. :tup:

To be honest, I would say the stock spare scissor jack is about as low profile and compact as it's gonna get. No other design I can think of can fold that small, and have such a low min starting height. If it comes to a point where your car is basically touching frame to the ground, you'll have to jack up the rear (if the front is flat) or the front (if the rear is flat) to get enough clearance to wedge a block or something underneath. But this is probably gonna be a very rare scenario.

But remember, dropping it WITH a kit, then getting a flat. Remember, best case scenario you're on a flat surface. Then you have to find the jack point which will be way in there without tearing up your skirts. The scissor jack will give you a stress stroke because you're trying not to bang the skirt...right? now you're NOT on a flat surface. That scissor jack is deep underneath, probably at an angle, and you will really need to lift it up to get at your wheel. Lifting and lowering are the same stress headache. So a small jack that's maybe slightly heavier than the scissor jack makes for a safer less stressful lift....huh?

Harbor Freight. Got a coupon in the mail $49. it has been awesome.
http://www.the370z.com/lounge-off-to...your-pics.html