There's a fuse puller stored in the driver side kick panel.

:iagree: This is what I used.

Crap, really? I'm used to them being attached underneath the fuse box covers in other cars. Eh, it was no biggie.

Ill be waking up and pullin mine tomorrow.




The fuse you perverts:rolleyes:

The fuse will come AFTER the pulling is all done. :icon14:

Just finished. Easy as pie. No more steering lock worries:icon17:

Oh, and btw, I swear the car started faster with the fuse pulled. Zero delay when I pressed the start button.

:iagree: Mine seemed faster as well.

Told you,oh forgot to mention that your car will blow up in exactly 30 minutes.:icon17:

:driving:

.....30 min......................

:eek:

cb pull story.
 

I finally pulled mine. The steering wheel doesn't do its pre-start dance anymore and the car starts with no delay.

I must say getting the fuse box out was more challenging than I had envisioned reading all your posts, but was definitely do-able.

Also I broke one of my little plastic trim rivets. :( and dropped a pocket knife down into my engine bay which came to rest on my lower plastic engine cover. getting that out was harder than the cb pull as I was at a buddies house. (no jack stands to get under there and had to drive around a crappy part of town looking for a high enough curb to prop up a wheel so I could wiggle under the car to unscrew my cover.

A couple very helpful prostitutes came up to ask if I was okay and one offered to join me under the car. I don't think she was too good with tools (not the kind I was trying to employ anyhow) so I politely refused, finished my businedd and did my best 0-60 yet departing the area!!!!

Woo Hoooo! Personal best 0-60 pull and a successful engine control mod all in one night.

Seriously. That's what happened to me. Caused all sorts of rear damage.

:bowrofl:

:rofl2:

:D Another satisfied customer here!

For those of you who haven't done this yet, here are the steps I followed (I'm not sure that they've been put in one place):

1. Remove the battery compartment cover (two tabs at the front end of the cover).
2. Remove the four clips from the perimeter of the battery compartment surround. To remove each clip, use a small flat blade screwdriver and gently pry up the center round "head" of the clip, then pull out the entire clip.
3. Remove the battery compartment surround; note the section at the front driver side that goes under the support bar.
4. Remove the passenger side windshield cowl's rubber hood seal just to the rear of the battery compartment - there are four clips embedded in the seal, just put your fingers around them from between the firewall and the seal and pull up
5. Remove the passenger side windshield cowl (two clips that are the same as the battery compartment surround). Note that there is a tab (but no clip) where the cowl goes underneath the windshield seal - pull this up slightly, then pull the cowl out.
6. The fuse box will now be fully visible and accessible. There are two tabs at the top of the fuse box that go into the steel frame that the box is sitting in. Simultaneously push the two tabs towards the driver side of the car, and then pull the fuse box up and out.
7. There are two tabs on the bottom of the fuse box (where the harness enters) - push the two tabs and pull the cover open.
8. Put the car in ACC - do not start the car.
9. Remove the steering lock 10A fuse (top fuse in the lower lefthand block of four fuses - see the pictures in other posts in this thread, or just look at the diagram that is silkscreened into the top of the fuse box). To remove the fuse, I just used the same flat blade screwdriver that I used on the clips to partially pry up the fuse, then I used my fingers to pull it the rest of the way out. No fuse puller or needle-nose pliers needed.
10. Change the car from ACC to OFF.
11. Put the cover back on the fuse box.
12. Put the fuse box back into the steel frame - make sure (a) to align the slots at the center of the box with the tabs in the frame; (b) that the harness will fold under the box and slide down into the area underneath the box; and (c) that the two locking tabs at the top of the box are fully engaged and the box is locked into place when you are done.
13. If you wish, now is a good time to start the car and make sure that all is well. Before you start the car, make sure that no trim pieces, clips, or tools are loose in the engine compartment.
14. If you did start the car, turn it OFF.
15. Re-install the windshield cowl. To reinsert the two clips, push the center portion of the clip all of the way up, then insert the clip, then push the center portion of the clip all of the way down (you should hear a click when it engages). If the clip that goes into the passenger fender side of the cowl does not engage (or if the cowl does not lay flat on the fender), you most likely do not have the fuse box fully seated in the steel frame - remove the cowl and go back to step 12.
16. Re-install the winshield cowl rubber seal.
17. Re-install the battery surround trim (remember the portion that goes under the bar), re-inserting the four clips the same way as with the windshield cowl.
18. Re-install the battery compartment cover.
19. Pop open a tall frosty can of refreshment, stand back, and admire your $500 savings!

I believe that's it! If I forgot anything, I'm sure someone will let us know.

So, in summary: 15-20 minutes of your time and one flat blade screwdriver to save $500 - not a bad deal at all!

Advice: Put the 10A fuse you removed in a ziplock baggie in the car ("just in case"). In fact, next time I visit the auto parts store I'm going to purchase a few spare 10A and 15A fuses and leave them in the same baggie. Also carry a small flat blade screwdriver in the car in case one of the other fuses blows while you're on the road.

HTH!

DISCLAIMER: Perform this procedure at your own risk - I accept no responsibility for any damage to you or your car!

I'm glad you like it and save $500,but remember reps are free.

Done! :tup:

Not a single delay or problem since doing this. I've started and stopped and driven the car a lot over the past 2-3 days now. Absolutely no difference in the time it takes to fire up.

Beautiful! Glad to see there's finally a "fix".

I'm really glad you guys are do good with this,the guys on the other thread should be reading this.
Me and Dai talked about this for a while plus I checked the wiring diagrams and I knew this would work mainly b/c of the ECU's ability to learn and adjust as it sees fit.

Indeed. It feels so great knowing that my car will start every time I step foot into it. Before, I felt like it was a game of Russian roulette. I had a Rev-C (post 6/10 build) and can't imagine how nervous the A and B guys felt. LOL!

Mine still delays from time to time...hardly noticeable though at this point, I'm pretty used to it...I'm actually pretty surprised some people never have this issue. Good to hear I guess :tup:

Why don't you try to reset your ECU disconnect the - of the battery then hold the horn and the brake pedal down to drain the rest of the remaining volts reconnect and it will relearn as you drive,idle,etc..

Just a small warning to people:

Another member had an issue this week with the Power Distribution box unrelated to this mod. MAKE SURE the seal is good when you close up the fuse box after removing the steering lock fuse. His had a bad seal and was not watertight and all the water coming off the windshield drains past this fuse box area. His got wet and the resulting damage was extensive. Fried ECU, fried/melted fuse box. All was covered under warranty because of the defective seal, but I want to ensure people closed that box properly and snapped it shut tight. The repair bill was close to $7000 for the dealer, not including the $400 towing bill....

Happened to me this morning.

No offense intended, but the ECU has no magical ability to "relearn" anything except for the specific things that the Nissan engineers programmed it for - and I really doubt that the ECU has been programmed to "relearn" anything having to do with the steering wheel lock. Besides, as others have noted, this is a very minor thing that happens once in a while.

And you have read the wiring diagrams,talk to techs, and determined on your own that the ECU can't relearn,:shakes head:

No, I never said that the ECU can't relearn - I said that it is highly doubtful that the ECU firmware engineers programmed the ECU to "learn" (or "relearn") anything about the steering wheel lock in particular. Now, that's certainly just my "opinion", but it's based on almost 40 years of experience being a software/firmware engineer and writing a boatload of control software.

But, you certainly might be right. :tiphat:

i too doubt the ecu learns steering lock environment either. it's like the ecu will not learn a dead door lock solenoid, or window motor, etc. not part of the critical parameters to run the engine/drivetrain efficiently.

but then again, i dont program car ecu's so wat the hell do i know. :icon17:

not true. Everytime you start the car the ecu is programmed to trigger the lock and wait for a response that the lock is released before starting

It would have a mode / instruction incase the fuse blows and it wouldnt get the response.

When you start the car it doesnt check if the doors are locked or unlocked.

Yes and no. It sends the unlock first, i.e. when the car is completely off and indicates LOCK on the starter button. Provided it can get position feedback on the lock position sensor (passive, doesn't require power to the lock directly) the car will start, if it can't get feedback then it will not start (e.g. harness unplugged).

My guess is that the people that are getting the delay are going directly from LOCK to START, where as the people that don't get the delay have the habit of putting the car in ACC mode first (which does the unlock step) and then starting. Just a guess, but something to try out.

you're missing the point. i was stating the example that unlike the engine component parameters, steering locks have nothing to do with the engine performance. there's nothing for the ecu to 'learn.' it's only a pass/fail system for the steering lock.

im not here to make an argument. i am just here monitoring everyone's progress before i decide do do anything about mine. :p

carry on.

AWESOME safety tip. Thanks!!

^ you're welcome :p

Also, if anyone cares, I hooked up the UpRev cable to the car and checked for error codes and none were reported or logged.... all good.

As a side note, I wonder if UpRev would have the ability to control this Steering Lock circuit from within the Osiris software? You can disable a lot of other features like Auto Power Windows etc.... currently it cannot adjust Steering Lock settings but maybe an update could....

When you pulled the codes did you check just ECU or did you check the Body control module.

The BCM on our cars seems to be split up into different layers it seems, because you can't control every BCM function for some reason. The 370Z's ECU in general is definitely more difficult than the 350Z's was, the 350Z certainly had more tinkering to be done with UpRev.

This is not "learning", this is recovery from an error (timeout) condition.

Look, I suggest we agree to disagree on this issue. The only reason that I brought up the whole "ECU learning" thing is simply that I don't think there's any reason to recommend that anyone reset the ECU to try and get it to "learn" that the steering wheel lock is disabled.

The main thing is you and Baer383 did excellent work, and did us all a big favor, in discovering that removing the fuse will eliminate the steering wheel lock failure - it doesn't cost anything to implement, and can be easily reversed. The only side effect appears to be a once-in-a-while delay in starting the car. It's no big deal.

Peace.

ECU and BCM

I agree that the BCM is more of a 'Black Box' than ever. Still, there may be more access than we realize with the right software....

100% correct. The ECU encounters conditions and reacts to those conditions. It's all preprogrammed though.

There's a ton of guessing that is masquerading as fact in this thread. It's the reason i've stayed out of this thread but to correct the misread on the wiring schematic early on. The schematic shows that removing the fuse will disable the steering lock. What we can't be sure of is what the ECU does with that info, not from the schematic alone anyway. Obviously whatever condition the ECU sees doesn't prevent you from starting your car and driving off. My guess (with circuit design and repair experience) is that this mod is fine.

There's no way the ecu is "learning" here.


I doubt Nissan invested the man-hours necessary to adapt to things like this when something like an automatic timeout would do (which is already a native function in CANBUS)

Even just having a flipped bit for "check steering lock y/n" makes no sense, and certaint doesn't appear to be there.

Also worth keeping in mind that the "learning" being referred to is a very loose use of the term.

When it "learns" to set fuel trims, it's just looking up values in a table...you'd need to have predefined behaviors for "steering lock removed" that are stored in nonvolatile memory...and then account for what happens if it is reinstalled. Checking every time it is started accounts for that.

The ecu doesn't actually do any learning, which is an important distinction.



Oh, you're talking about draining volts? I see now.

Can we all just settle on it works with no issues.