Nissan 370Z Forum - Steering lock problem solved (for real)

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I tested both keys, and the light still came on for both. I guess both keys are probably on the original batteries (which would be 4 years old) and could both be low...seems unlikely though both would have the issue. If the key batteries were low would the light go out if the keys were in the fob slot?

Tried to pull the fuse last weekend and couldn't get the fuse box open. I barely got the box pulled up past the battery due to the wiring, and that made me a little over-cautious...but that f'er acted like it was glued. I didn't want to break the thing, so I gave up for the time being. Looked easy enough to pop open but it just wouldn't budge much. Thinking about clipping the wire and being done with it if I can squeeze up under there.

Quote:

Originally Posted by volman (Post 2643071)

... I barely got the box pulled up past the battery due to the wiring, and that made me a little over-cautious...but that f'er acted like it was glued. ...

The wiring bundle on the bottom of the fuse box (IPDM in Nissanese) can get hung on the bottom of the bracket that holds the IPDM. Reach under the IPDM and guide the bundle past the bottom of the bracket while pulling up on the IPDM. If you have big arms, you may be able to use a dowel or similar to guide the bundle away from the bracket. Good luck.

Steering lock problem solved (for real)

Quote:

Originally Posted by volman (Post 2643071)

Did you wait until the engine bay gets cooled down? Try to wiggle the box, it's a bit heavy at first but once you get some movement, keep on pulling. Good luck!

I got the entire box up past the battery, but the wiring was being pulled pretty tight and I couldn't maneuver the box around much. The wiring wasn't hung up on anything. I just couldn't get the box open and didn't want to force the issue and break something.

Quote:

Originally Posted by volman (Post 2643806)

Ah. Sorry for the misunderstanding.

It's been so long since I had mine open that I can't remember how I did it. If no one can tell you how to do it, I'll see if I can get mine apart again.

Quote:

Originally Posted by volman (Post 2643806)

Here are the steps to perform the fuse pulling (note the step that I highlighted in bold):

Quote:

Originally Posted by VCuomo (Post 1775597)

:D Another satisfied customer here!

For those of you who haven't done this yet, here are the steps I followed (I'm not sure that they've been put in one place):

Remove the battery compartment cover (two tabs at the front end of the cover).
Remove the four clips from the perimeter of the battery compartment surround. To remove each clip, use a small flat blade screwdriver and gently pry up the center round "head" of the clip, then pull out the entire clip.
Remove the battery compartment surround; note the section at the front driver side that goes under the support bar.
Remove the passenger side windshield cowl's rubber hood seal just to the rear of the battery compartment - there are four clips embedded in the seal, just put your fingers around them from between the firewall and the seal and pull up
Remove the passenger side windshield cowl (two clips that are the same as the battery compartment surround). Note that there is a tab (but no clip) where the cowl goes underneath the windshield seal - pull this up slightly, then pull the cowl out.
The fuse box will now be fully visible and accessible. There are two tabs at the top of the fuse box that go into the steel frame that the box is sitting in. Simultaneously push the two tabs towards the driver side of the car, and then pull the fuse box up and out.
There are two tabs on the bottom of the fuse box (where the harness enters) - push the two tabs and pull the cover open.
Put the car in ACC - do not start the car.
Remove the steering lock 10A fuse (top fuse in the lower lefthand block of four fuses - see the pictures in other posts in this thread, or just look at the diagram that is silkscreened into the top of the fuse box). To remove the fuse, I just used the same flat blade screwdriver that I used on the clips to partially pry up the fuse, then I used my fingers to pull it the rest of the way out. No fuse puller or needle-nose pliers needed.
Change the car from ACC to OFF.
Put the cover back on the fuse box.
Put the fuse box back into the steel frame - make sure (a) to align the slots at the center of the box with the tabs in the frame; (b) that the harness will fold under the box and slide down into the area underneath the box; and (c) that the two locking tabs at the top of the box are fully engaged and the box is locked into place when you are done.
If you wish, now is a good time to start the car and make sure that all is well. Before you start the car, make sure that no trim pieces, clips, or tools are loose in the engine compartment.
If you did start the car, turn it OFF.
Re-install the windshield cowl. To reinsert the two clips, push the center portion of the clip all of the way up, then insert the clip, then push the center portion of the clip all of the way down (you should hear a click when it engages). If the clip that goes into the passenger fender side of the cowl does not engage (or if the cowl does not lay flat on the fender), you most likely do not have the fuse box fully seated in the steel frame - remove the cowl and go back to step 12.
Re-install the winshield cowl rubber seal.
Re-install the battery surround trim (remember the portion that goes under the bar), re-inserting the four clips the same way as with the windshield cowl.
Re-install the battery compartment cover.
Pop open a tall frosty can of refreshment, stand back, and admire your $500 savings!

I believe that's it! If I forgot anything, I'm sure someone will let us know.

So, in summary: 15-20 minutes of your time and one flat blade screwdriver to save $500 - not a bad deal at all!

Advice: Put the 10A fuse you removed in a ziplock baggie in the car ("just in case"). In fact, next time I visit the auto parts store I'm going to purchase a few spare 10A and 15A fuses and leave them in the same baggie. Also carry a small flat blade screwdriver in the car in case one of the other fuses blows while you're on the road.

HTH!

DISCLAIMER: Perform this procedure at your own risk - I accept no responsibility for any damage to you or your car!

Went and tried again a couple of hours ago and got it open without a problem. Maybe the cold garage and a little impatience got the best of me last time. It was easy. Now I need to get a few new clips to replace some that I noticed had some tabs broken off. Thanks for the responses everyone.

2009 70k and it happened. Thing is I havent been on 370z.com in over a year. Anyway it crapped out in the unlocked position but thankfully in my garage. Then I remembered seeing something back in the day on here about steering lock. Well I initially tried steering column up and down technique. Then moved to gentle taps on the actual lock. Nothing. Then I come across a user who said to not puss out on the taps and to beat it like it was taking $600 from me. Lol. I didnt go lunatic on it but I did apply more than gentle force. Thankfully it unlocked and I already had fuse box open and ready to pull. Just wanted to say thanks everybody and to remind not be scared to give more than a gentle tap if this ever happens to you.

LMAO "Beat it like it was taking $600 from me"!!!!

Damn prostitutes

I think my steering lock took a dump on my in the open position today. The "key" symbol was on next to the readout gauge and it didn't lock when I turned the car off. It happened a few days ago but was working properly ever since. I pulled the fuse just in case

Quote:

Originally Posted by maximusz (Post 2791140)

Mine failed open too. The car would not start and said lock on it. I finally got it to start with a combination of pulling the neg and then putting the key in fobgina. It took several times and finally just started working... fuse has not been pulled.

Funny thing, when this happened, I didn't know about the issue and thought it was related to some other work I had just done. Will pull the fuse now that I know.

JT

No issues with mine (2010 Roadster) but pulled it anyway. Just got the car 2 weeks ago and definitely don't need this cropping up later. THANKS ALL FOR A GREAT RESOURCE!!!!

Last week, my ESCL malfunctioned and my car got stuck in the lock position. I tapped on it with a hammer (not so gently) and got it going. Several days later it malfunctioned again and tapping on it wouldn't do the trick. I was able to take the ESCL off and rig it to where I could start it so I can take it to the dealership and have the piece swapped out. It's been recalled so it won't cost anything. Mine's a 2010 370Z Nismo.