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Steering lock problem solved (for real)

Originally Posted by Benadrylz I never found the fastener Have to order some spares from Z1 If you're talking about the plastic "pop rivets", I get mine from my favorite

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Old 01-06-2013, 11:12 PM   #541 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Benadrylz View Post
I never found the fastener Have to order some spares from Z1
If you're talking about the plastic "pop rivets", I get mine from my favorite body shop. The last batch I got was fifty cents a piece for a handful (14).
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Old 01-14-2013, 12:02 AM   #542 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SouthArk370Z View Post
If you're talking about the plastic "pop rivets", I get mine from my favorite body shop. The last batch I got was fifty cents a piece for a handful (14).
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Originally Posted by Benadrylz View Post
I never found the fastener Have to order some spares from Z1
I dropped a fastener down into my bay, too. I think I heard it hit the shroud that covers the bottom of the engine bay. Anyone have any luck pulling that thing off and retrieving whatever fell in? (In my case, the clip.)

If I can't get at it, what or how great is the harm in just leaving the clip in there to eventually work it's way out?

Here's the link to those fastener clips; from Z1: OEM Trim Clip 09321
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Old 01-14-2013, 12:37 AM   #543 (permalink)
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I dropped a fastener down into my bay, too. I think I heard it hit the shroud that covers the bottom of the engine bay. Anyone have any luck pulling that thing off and retrieving whatever fell in? (In my case, the clip.)

If I can't get at it, what or how great is the harm in just leaving the clip in there to eventually work it's way out?
Shouldn't do any harm unless it gets against the exhaust manifold or exhaust pipes.
I haven't taken my shroud off, but I hear it's a pretty easy job - 10 bolts/screws or so. Look at the DIY for changing oil.
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Old 01-14-2013, 11:08 AM   #544 (permalink)
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Shouldn't do any harm unless it gets against the exhaust manifold or exhaust pipes.
I haven't taken my shroud off, but I hear it's a pretty easy job - 10 bolts/screws or so. Look at the DIY for changing oil.
There's actually a flap that is only a very small portion of the undershroud and only requires 4 bolts to remove instead of the 10+ bolts. This might be easier to try first if you can get your arm in there to reach around for the lost fastener - if not, you're already on your way to removing the undershroud Just make sure you do this when the car hasn't been operated in a while - last thing you want is to burn your arm on something really hot.
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Old 01-14-2013, 05:31 PM   #545 (permalink)
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Question: I assumed I didn't have SLU issues the first two times my Z failed to start because re-charging/replacing the car battery started the car. Now, on its third failure to start, I can't get it into ACC, which assumedly means SLU problems. Is there a reason why disconnecting and replacing the car battery could have worked before, but not now?


BTW, nice compilation of symptoms below SouthArk, thanks.


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Originally Posted by SouthArk370Z View Post
SLU failure will allow the car to go to neither ACC nor ON.


Sounds a lot like SLU failure.


As far as I know, that will have no effect on the SLU problem.


If the SLU locking pin does not retract completely, the wheel will be unlocked, but the microswitches are out of synch.

Is the Intelligent Key warning (to the left of the VID (outside temp, MPG, &c)) on? Won't go to ACC or ON? No whirr from the SLU when you press the start button? If all those are happening, you have SLU failure.


You have to pull the fuse after you get the SLU to let the car go to ON or ACC. If the SLU is not making the microswitches properly, it does no good to pull the fuse. See my thread at Links to posts about Steering Wheel Lock for links to more info.
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Old 01-14-2013, 06:25 PM   #546 (permalink)
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Question: I assumed I didn't have SLU issues the first two times my Z failed to start because re-charging/replacing the car battery started the car. Now, on its third failure to start, I can't get it into ACC, which assumedly means SLU problems. Is there a reason why disconnecting and replacing the car battery could have worked before, but not now?

BTW, nice compilation of symptoms below SouthArk, thanks.
Just guessing here, but, if you're having an SLU problem, disconnecting the battery may merely give the SLU another chance to retract fully. I doubt that disconnecting the battery has any effect and it's just coincidence. But I'm just guessing.
I'd try rapping/beating on the SLU until you can get the car into ACC/ON, then pull the fuse (or install a harness or cut the wire).

You're welcome.
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Old 01-15-2013, 06:19 PM   #547 (permalink)
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Hey guys, having trouble lifting the fuse box out when pushing the 2 tabs in. Any pointers?
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Old 01-15-2013, 07:18 PM   #548 (permalink)
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Hey guys, having trouble lifting the fuse box out when pushing the 2 tabs in. Any pointers?
Lift straight up. You may need to stick your hand underneath and guide the wire bundle past the bracket.
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Old 01-15-2013, 07:43 PM   #549 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by SouthArk370Z View Post
Lift straight up. You may need to stick your hand underneath and guide the wire bundle past the bracket.
That thing is in there good. I tried pulling straight up to no avail...and I beat that bracket up pretty good in the process

Reach under on which side? Closest to the battery or on the shorter sides of the fuse box? Its a tight squeeze around that fuse box.
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Old 01-15-2013, 07:49 PM   #550 (permalink)
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The bundle comes into the IPDM from the bottom. IIRC, I stuck my arm down the left side (toward rear of car). The bundle is not very flexible, but it's not too bad.
Are you sure the tabs on the back of the IPDM are clearing the bracket?
Try pulling upward on the bottom of the IPDM while releasing the tabs.
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Old 01-15-2013, 08:26 PM   #551 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SouthArk370Z View Post
The bundle comes into the IPDM from the bottom. IIRC, I stuck my arm down the left side (toward rear of car). The bundle is not very flexible, but it's not too bad.
Are you sure the tabs on the back of the IPDM are clearing the bracket?
Try pulling upward on the bottom of the IPDM while releasing the tabs.
Yeah they're definitely clearing the bracket, i've actually bent the top of the bracket back some to make sure. Think i may try cutting the wire if i can't get this to work. There's barely any movement trying to pull it up and I don't want to give it that one good yank and damage anything.
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Old 01-15-2013, 09:39 PM   #552 (permalink)
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you can see the pic of the plastic tabs one each side needs to pull it up toward to you



view of the steering lock



it literally took me like a mintue to pop IPDM off the bracket, just gotta give a lil muscle lol haha Im a Nissan Technician figured why its too easy for me Hope this pics help you MannyD
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Old 01-16-2013, 07:00 PM   #553 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by thezmonster View Post
you can see the pic of the plastic tabs one each side needs to pull it up toward to you



view of the steering lock



it literally took me like a mintue to pop IPDM off the bracket, just gotta give a lil muscle lol haha Im a Nissan Technician figured why its too easy for me Hope this pics help you MannyD
Thanks guys. I had 2 other people try to pull this thing and it wouldn't budge...so I was glad that it just wasnt me being a weakling lol. But finally today it came out. That 10A fuse can kiss my a55.
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Old 01-19-2013, 06:01 PM   #554 (permalink)
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Default steering wheel lock

I looked in battary compartment and did not see steering wheel fuse. i have and 2010 roadster 370z. where would my fuse be if not there?
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Old 01-19-2013, 06:05 PM   #555 (permalink)
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I looked in battary compartment and did not see steering wheel fuse. i have and 2010 roadster 370z. where would my fuse be if not there?
it is on the other side of the battery by the fender in a pretty big black box that is pushed down by the fender secured by 2 black clips.
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