Pulling the fuse kills power to the brown wire, ie, they do exactly the same thing.

SouthArk,
Have you removed one of these steering lock assemblies from a Z (in the unlock position)?
Wasn't sure if it had to be on the column to function;as i know when the locking pin retract's,,,it closes contact's on a switch that allows for start-up.
Taking it off completely & having a special relay or something for the plug to go in,would be cool....like a jumper wire connection...
Just a thought.

Removing the supposedly correct fuse while ECSL is retracted and an ESCL that still works/locks don't make sense. Something isn't right.

The ESCL does not have to be mounted to the steering column but it must be plugged in. A relay would solve the switches problem but there is other communication with one (or more) of the control modules (via CAN, IIRC, but wouldn't swear to it). Removing the fuse (or cutting the wire) only kills power to the motor that moves the pin - the electronics are still powered up.

Somebody did an autopsy on an ESCL with pics of the various components. I think I remember there also being some explanations of what the parts did.

yes and yes

Interesting, I have no idea how it could continue to function and lock up without the fuse then. Color me perplexed.

Ok SouthArk,sounds good.

Either the wrong fuse was pulled or vibration caused the pin to back away from the switch(es) just enough to cause a problem.

I believe you are correct that it uses the CAN interface. In 370Z's with a steering lock assembly, obviously it must be in the unlocked position to start. But it has to tell the car the ESCL is in the unlock position. So this signal is needed in order to start the car, which is why you can't just remove the ESCL assembly completely. Thankfully, as you mention, the workarounds specified on this forum kill power to the motor that actuates the locking pin and still allow the unlocked signal to be sent to the car.

It was definitely the right fuse removed, so must have been something with the latter option I guess.

Just went out to my car now and it is locked up AGAIN... how is this possible???

You tell us. Which fuse did you pull? What was the procedure that you performed?

Same as everyone else: banged on the module to get the car into ACC and once it was there I pulled the steering lock fuse. It then worked fine for 5-10 stops/starts and I came back out today and it was locked again. Interestingly enough, I didn't have to replace the fuse in order to get it to release this time - I only had to bang on it softly a couple of times and it freed up.

Sufficed to say, until I figure out what is going on I'm carrying a hammer with me everywhere...

I have a question demandedAce;
When you do get the car to start & switch it back off,,,can you freely turn the steering wheel left to right & right to left?
I know this will take some effort, if the Z is not on a lift...(should be able to turn at any given time).
Also,,,after you bang on steering lock;do you here any mechanical slide/scrape noises?
Just trying to help with your diagnosis.

This is a repost of the fuse location... just because.

Reposting the fuse location. Sometimes stating the obvious isn't obvious to some...
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2017...6672a8edab.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2017...053aae40a3.jpg

Def a good set of questions, the first two times I could turn the wheel but yesterday I wasn't really able to (though I wasn't trying to hard and am on a bit of an incline). I didn't really hear any slide/scrape noises since the beeping of the car switching in over the clanking of the hammer was all that I heard, but I'll keep an ear out for it the next time (I'm sure) that it happens

Haha ty but I got the correct fuse both times, that's the most perplexing thing about this to me

When the steering lock is working normal & the start button is pressed; it unlocks the steering,by retracting a locking pin....thus enabling you to turn steering wheel if desired.
When the pin retracts into the lock assembly; it also internally presses against an electrical switch/ activating the ignition.....so when the brakes are applied;results are engine start-up.
Pending that the proper fuse was removed,,,something is internally not making the electrical connection within the steering lock mechanism.
If your steering wheel is locked & doesn't turn-then somehow your lock pin is creeping back out and removing the internal pressure from closing the contacts of the internal switches,that power up the ignition.........To bang on the steering lock w/ fuse out is confusing to me; as it would not have electrical power to retract the pin inside (that performs the locking).
Could be unlocked & banging is causing internal switches to close & power to pass through; so your car starts up.
Interesting/ as I plan to remove mine pretty soon & see exactly how this thing operates & exactly what electrical features are being left on (after fuse removal).
SouthArk has really helped a lot of people w/ this issue & I would like to help him shed some more light on the topic.
Just glad mine isn't a DD or it would make it more difficult to perform .
I will follow up on my findings & report everything (including photos)
Have a nice day & I'm going to enjoy my less than 1" of snow that we are supposed to receive.
Thanks to all for any inputs on this subject. ✌️

Just to clarify, this pulling the fuse method needs to be done before the steering lock happens or when it happens? The beginning of this thread it Notes that the steering wheel must be in working condition so I'm unclear. (Sorry for the ignorance on this matter)

1. From what I understand, Steering lock must be working.
2. Turn Key to ACC to unlock steering.
3. Pull out Fuse.
4. You are done.

Is this about right?

That's correct, should be the way that gets around this issue and it has worked for probably 99% of the folks who have done it. As long as the fuse is out, the lock should not be able to engage, I'm just dealing with incredibly bad luck and happenstance.

You've got it Rocxtar. It is meant to be a preventative measure for those whose ESCL has not yet failed. DemandedAce is one of a number of people who've found this thread after their ESCL failed. Beating on the actual module itself (under the steering column) while trying to start the car has been successful for those people in most circumstances. Although he is experiencing something unusual for sure.

DemandedAce, assuming it is the ESCL, I might be tempted to go to a dealership and see if you can't get them to do something for you. Even call corporate and ask for goodwill coverage. Explain that your Rev D unit is failing and is not covered by the recall even though it should be. Nissan gave Rev D unit to late-year 2010 models and early-year 2011 models and then got rid of the ESCL completely after the recall of Rev A, B, and C units. Rev D units are still prone to failure.

Thanks @DemandedAce @Jarblue and everyone involved providing this very useful information. I bought my 09 370z used and I've had it know for 3 years. I've heard issues with this in the past but so far I've been lucky enough. Not sure if whoever had it had this issue resolved by a dealer but in any case I rather take the precaution and remove this "evil" fuse just to be safe. Hopefully next time I turn the ACC on is not when it decides to fail... that would be something.

That's not a bad idea at all man, esp since I can get it working maybe I can just get them to cut it down from the column and leave it dangling (so all the electronics work just not the mechanical side).

If the weather were nicer right now I would be in there myself looking into how to remove it from the steering column, but I just can't bring myself to do it in sub-freezing temps haha

I finally got the chance to do this procedure and it was a success!! Pulling the fuse box and opening the box was the hardest part for me since at first I didn't pull it out far enough. But, slowly and very carefully I was then able to do it.

So, I have an update on my woes. With the fuse pulled for me, it seems that any time the temperature drops under 30 degrees overnight it enters the "locked" state again. However, it is much less seized up than it was prior to me pulling the fuse, and it generally only takes 3-5 light taps on the edge of the module to get it to free up and allow me to start the car.

Does anyone have any idea why cold weather would have this effect with the fuse pulled? The only thing that I can possibly think of is that in the cold the metal retracts and causes it to somehow slide back in and lock - but that's all I've got.

This issue has become infuriating for me that I have to carry a small hammer with me everywhere, and when I go out in the mornings to go to work I have to sit there in the cold hammering this god damn idiotic as #$@% module that Nissan is too much of a jackass to cover

Does the steering wheel lock when you turn the car off (you may have to open driver's door)? If so, you got the wrong fuse.

If the wheel is not locking then it sounds like the pin is moving away from the switches. Only way I can think of to fix that is to remove the ESCL cover (there's at least one DIY on here) and somehow "glue" the pin so it maintains contact with the switches.

I've driven my vehicle a few times after doing this "pull fuse" method and so far I haven't had an issue. However, I can't recall if the weather has been below 30 degrees. I guess I'll have to check once I know for sure that it's at least that cold out.

Unfortunately, I stopped working lock. Can I use the steering lock from another Nissan 370Z? Discard it and return your old steering wheel lock?

No issues on my end, check the use as SouthArk370z metioned. Your car should not enter a lock state if the correct fuse has been removed.

You guys... I'm not a moron lol I know which fuse to pull, it is painfully obvious

IIRC, a dealer would have to re-program the BCM and/or ECM to recognize the new ESCL. You can verify using the FSM (link in my sig).

Even the most experienced mechanic will grab the wrong fuse every now and then. They are packed tight and labeling can be rather cryptic.

Are the power windows on that fuse????

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Oops, meant mirrors.

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Nope

Being an auto tech with almost 40 years experience i have to agree with SouthArk.:iagree:

I just had my '09 in to the dealer to have a 4 wheel brake job done. Several years ago when the lock problem was first discovered I installed one of those bypass harnesses. When I picked up my car the service writer said "oh by the way there was a recall on your car concerning the steering lock so we performed the upgrade free of charge". I have no idea what they did, I guess I need to stick my head under the dash tomorrow and see if they disconnected the harness. However, when starting the car and turning it off I do not hear the "bzzzzt" sound that the lock mechanism used to make when engaging and disengaging before I installed the bypass harness. Any ideas what the recall was supposed to entail and if there still may be an issue with the so called upgrade ?

They replaced the ESCL with a newer revision. All revisions (at least up through Rev E) are prone to failure.

Since you aren't hearing the locking pin retract/extend, they probably left the harness in place. Easy enough to stick your head under there and look.

I think I will let the dealer replace it under recall and pull the fuse again when I get her home.......
Trust issues............

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