Hey after I pulled the fuse, I noticed when I unlock the doors and get into the car the red immobilizer light with the red car and key in the middle cluster is flashing until I start the car. Is this normal and I just didn't notice this before the fuse pull? Thanks.

Pretty sure this is normal! No worries, it's just letting you know its functioning and armed/unarmed or whatever.

Cool just making sure as I did read somewhere that some people were having startup issues and had to get towed a few days later if they saw a key light. Not sure if they were talking about the flashing red immobilizer or the yellow key like on the left cluster.

Yes, I just pulled the fuse as I have a 2010 Touring Sport -6MT and id not want to risk a lock up as I've got about 30k miles and figured I must be a high risk by now

Do the 2013 and 2014 and up have these issues?

No they do not. They stopped using it after 11-12

Oh blimey.
Why is it I don't find these threads until it's too late?
When I first got the 370 I looked for forums and saw hardly anything - mainly in the UK, so haven't really posted.

Until now...

I think I have this issue. My car is sitting outside someones house not moving. Key fob not electronically opening door. And when manually opening door, no alarm either (which I believe it does). Put it into the ignition, and the light shows up on the start button, but it does not switch to the middle (ACC) position.

I'm pretty certain it's not the battery as it's been healthy of late.
Im a 2011 car by the way. Ahhhh blast.

Edit: 57 pages of this! Damn... Not exactly a small thing either.

That doesn't sound like the ESCL. Not sure what the problem is but pretty sure it's not the ESCL.

I'd double-check the battery condition and check the terminals for corrosion.

And this is just one thread. Many more ESCL-related threads on here. :)

Just got back from a rainy Berlin and will try and check today. Thankfully I have a company car so will try to jump start it.
If it does work, brilliant. I'll think I will also go back to page 1 on this thread and carry out the preventative measures what people are stating. I only do about 4000 miles a year and they are all to France / Luxembourg etc. I do not want to get stuck down there.
Thanks.

Thanks everyone! Took 11 minutes and saved a bunch of money and headache!

I have a 2010 and the steering wheel lock just happened at 32,000 miles, i have it at the Dealer now and they say 1009.00 to fix. If you remove the fuse does this cause the security system to stop working?

the alarm system is unaffected, but ur steering lock will no longer operate. which is wat u want in this case.

As Kenchan notes, the security system is unaffected.

Note that you can't remove the fuse while the car is off. You'll have to beat on the ESCL to see if you can't get it to unlock and let you turn the car on to accessory (ACC) mode. Once the car is on the ESCL is unlocked, you can remove the fuse.

As per kenchan and JARblue, pulling the fuse will not affect anything else.

There are MANY threads on this site with more info (see link in my sig). If the dealer hasn't started work on your car, it may be worthwhile to try to free it up the ESCL yourself (eg, JARblue's beat-it-like-it-owes-you-money method) and then pull the fuse.
As JARblue mentioned, the ESCL must be in the unlocked position when you pull the fuse.

Has anyone else had any success with Nissan regarding the Wheel Lock issue?? Mine is a 2010 and it appears they stopped the recall in 2009???
Thanks,
Gina



4/14/2016

Case #22099597

Dear Gina Hamersley,

Thank you for taking the time to contact Nissan North America, Inc. and allowing us the opportunity to be of assistance.

A review of our systems shows that the regional specialist attempted to contact you on 04/14/16. Please provide us with your best contact number, and a preferred contact time if desired, so we can continue to assist you.

Case #22099597 has been updated to document your concern. Please feel free to reply to this email with your information, or contact me directly at 1.615.725.7208 Regional Consumer Affairs Specialist) with any questions or comments.

Sincerely,

Nissan North America, Inc.
________________________
Stephanie
Regional Consumer Affairs Specialist
Nissan Consumer Affairs

Hey guys! Just joined as a new member on the forums! I wanted to share a video on Youtube that I made based on Baer383 and daisuke149's idea for the fuse pull method fix! I couldn't find a good video on this so I decided to make one while I was attempting the fix for those who are visually adept! Thanks to Baer383 and daisuke149 for the idea and of course the370z forums for this idea/fix! Saved me lots of money!

Good job. Thanks for posting!

Now I get to learn that my VIN isn't included in the Recall even though the same Year, Make and Model and Issue are occurring in other vehicles that are included!! smh!!!

gina- this 'recall' nissan is doing is not a permanent fix. RevD steering locks they use to replace the RevA/B/C are known to fail too. ur best bet is to do the fuse pull or cut the brown wire on the steering lock harness (while the car is in the ON position) before the steering lock on ur car fails.

@PogiFlip, just want to say thanks so much for that video mate.

I had this dreaded issue yesterday on my Australian 2011 build 370 7AT. Wouldn't start. Got the car towed home and using your video, tapped the steering lock box a few times and lo and behold she fired up. Yanked the fuse and it seems like she's all good after 20 or so restarts.

To the other guys on here - is this good enough for a permanent fix, or should I source another unit?

It's permanent. There is some electronics in the ESCL that have to be in working order, but I haven't seen any reports of the electronics failing. The problem is the switches and pulling the fuse fixes that.

Memphis370Z - Thank you!

T-Rex57 - No worries! I'm super glad you found it useful! Hope all is well with your Z! :icon17:

Same issye
 

My 2009 Z exhibited same issue this morning. Nissan dealers say my VIN isn't included. Luckily, I had purchased 5 year extended warranty years ago which expires in couple months. Extended warranty cost just covered this repair but this should've been covered by Nissan. Certainly will reconsider purchasing another Nissan.

Just got mine back Monday. $1160. I too purchased a extended plan ,only $50 deductible for me.

u guys do realize pulling the fuse or cutting brown wire is free.. and no hassle or worry.

:iagree:

Not an option when it's already broken and you can't put in ACC mode.

Did you try beating on it with a rubber mallet? Gotta beat it like it owes you money. A good number of people have been able to get into ACC mode while beating on it while pressing the start button. Not saying that will work in every situation, but the way it usually fails leaves a good possibility of getting it to work one last time before removing the fuse by beating on the unit itself.

At least you didn't have to pay for it :tiphat:

No shittt.. datz why u do it BEFORE it breaks.

I was able to get it into ACC mode by beating it a few times! Worked at least twice before pulling the fuse! Easy worry-free job/fix! :tup:

I took my 2009 to the Dealer this past week and they told me my car had a Recall. I asked if it was the Steering lock.

I told them that it was replaced about 3 to 4 yrs .ago.

The Service Coordinator told me that Nissan told them they have to replaced mine again because of a new REV. They had to order the part which already came in.

So I'm not sure what is still going on with this issue..... but all 370Z Steering lock issue should be covered by Nissan :confused: :confused:

As a late model 2010 production car. Nissan DID NOT cover my steering lock. I was incredibly frustrated by this. As mine "Did not fall under warranty". I will be pulling the fuse out after the 12 month parts warranty on the new one expires as I have 0 faith in it.

I hit this issue a month ago and pulled the fuse - the car had no issues until a week ago when it refused to start for about 5 minutes flashing the key light, and then this morning it is completely locked up again.

I'm 99% sure the correct fuse was pulled, but it's pouring rain today (of course) so I can't check. As far as I'm aware, there is no way that the steering lock could even get power without the fuse (please correct me if I am wrong) so I'm not sure how it is locked up again unless the wrong fuse was pulled somehow.

Anyone have any ideas?

If you can hear a whirring noise from the ESCL when the car starts and shuts down, then you got the wrong fuse.

Was the ignition in the on position when you pulled the fuse?

key fob battery good?
i know when i removed my fuse recently....the initial sliding/unlocking noise in column was heard before start-up.

Will have to check the fuse later to see, couldn't tell you about the whirring though since I wasn't listening for it unfortunately. Key fob battery should be fine, the car locks/unlocks fine and everything, nothing seems delayed at all

Additionally, the car was actually started when the fuse was pulled, it wasn't just sitting turned off with the ignition set to "On" or "ACC", the engine was running if that makes a difference

As an update, the correct fuse was removed and this issue still came back up. I put the fuse back in and banged on the module again until I could start it and pulled the fuse again.

I've stopped/started the car about 10 times since without any issue, but that still doesn't explain how it occurred with the fuse pulled. Would cutting the brown wire be more permanent and actually work whereas this did not?

nice job on the banging at the steering lock to get it to free itself. I would've just cut da brown wire but datz because I'm lazy.

So is the brown wire fix 100% guaranteed? I just don't want to cut it to have it lock up again and have no way of getting it started afterwards without splicing