I got the entire box up past the battery, but the wiring was being pulled pretty tight and I couldn't maneuver the box around much. The wiring wasn't hung up on anything. I just couldn't get the box open and didn't want to force the issue and break something.

Ah. Sorry for the misunderstanding.

It's been so long since I had mine open that I can't remember how I did it. If no one can tell you how to do it, I'll see if I can get mine apart again.

Here are the steps to perform the fuse pulling (note the step that I highlighted in bold):

Went and tried again a couple of hours ago and got it open without a problem. Maybe the cold garage and a little impatience got the best of me last time. It was easy. Now I need to get a few new clips to replace some that I noticed had some tabs broken off. Thanks for the responses everyone.

2009 70k and it happened. Thing is I havent been on 370z.com in over a year. Anyway it crapped out in the unlocked position but thankfully in my garage. Then I remembered seeing something back in the day on here about steering lock. Well I initially tried steering column up and down technique. Then moved to gentle taps on the actual lock. Nothing. Then I come across a user who said to not puss out on the taps and to beat it like it was taking $600 from me. Lol. I didnt go lunatic on it but I did apply more than gentle force. Thankfully it unlocked and I already had fuse box open and ready to pull. Just wanted to say thanks everybody and to remind not be scared to give more than a gentle tap if this ever happens to you.

LMAO "Beat it like it was taking $600 from me"!!!!

Damn prostitutes

I think my steering lock took a dump on my in the open position today. The "key" symbol was on next to the readout gauge and it didn't lock when I turned the car off. It happened a few days ago but was working properly ever since. I pulled the fuse just in case

Mine failed open too. The car would not start and said lock on it. I finally got it to start with a combination of pulling the neg and then putting the key in fobgina. It took several times and finally just started working... fuse has not been pulled.

Funny thing, when this happened, I didn't know about the issue and thought it was related to some other work I had just done. Will pull the fuse now that I know.

JT

No issues with mine (2010 Roadster) but pulled it anyway. Just got the car 2 weeks ago and definitely don't need this cropping up later. THANKS ALL FOR A GREAT RESOURCE!!!!

Last week, my ESCL malfunctioned and my car got stuck in the lock position. I tapped on it with a hammer (not so gently) and got it going. Several days later it malfunctioned again and tapping on it wouldn't do the trick. I was able to take the ESCL off and rig it to where I could start it so I can take it to the dealership and have the piece swapped out. It's been recalled so it won't cost anything. Mine's a 2010 370Z Nismo.

Finally got around to pulling the fuse today and all works well. One thing I noticed was a kind of whirring coming from under the hood when I shut the car off. My guess is that I never noticed it before and am just hyper-sensitive, since I was worried I would screw something up by pulling the fuse.

Radiator fan? TBs? VVEL? Could be a lot of things - all normal. Of the dozens of people that have pulled the fuse, none have reported any problems.

Thanks, SouthArk. I figured as much. I appreciate the reassurance.

I have a 2010 and the key light came on the other day. But its off now. The car starts fine. Should i pull the fuse or wait? Only Pull the fuse while the car is in 'ACCESSORY' MODE?

Pull the fuse. Follow these instructions: http://www.the370z.com/1775597-post255.html

Yes, pull the fuse now. If you wait until the unit fails, it may require a tow to the dealer and a ~$1200 fix. Several DIYs on this site - see link in my sig.

I pulled the fuse.... it took me about 30mins to take things off and put back on. Thanks for the help guys! =)

Another victim here. Came across this problem about a month ago, used the "tap" technique and everything started working fine for a couple of weeks. Problem came back like expected, so I tapped the SL, didn't work.... then hit it with a hemmer and nothing....
So I had to take the SL off and take of the hex screw part off the SL.
With the SL connected but hanging in my hands I was able to push down on it with a screw driver and put the car in ACC.
Then I pulled the Fuse out.

Its amazing the info on this forum, thanks to everyone for the insight, pics, etc. Really a great community.

I think that my sterring lock failed today. It wont do anything when i press the start button and i have the key light on the dash. The steering wheel is unlocked right now so if i pull the fuse will it start?

Nope. Follow one of the DIYs to try and fix it yourself (i.e. beat on it). Or take it in for the recall. You have to remove the fuse when the car is in accessory mode (ACC).

Ah ok thanx for the info. Looks like I'll be putting my hammer to use.

Pulled the steering lock fuse (quadruple checked). Still hear the damn thing unlocking when I go to ACC and car still won't start every time. How the hell is this possible?

Something else I've noticed is I don't get the key warning in the cluster. I get a clutch warning. WTF!

I've never really had the steering wheel lock failure issue, probably since my car is 2014, but having the wheel lock IS a pain in the *** when trying to move the wheels whilst doing work near fender liner...Anyways I was going to remove the fuse and noticed the I don't even have a fuse in the slot for the steering wheel lock fuse. Anyone else notice this in a 2014?

this is new.. i thought they completely removed that feature on the 12+. the 14's have a different steering lock somewhere?

they removed it since 2011 :tup:

Are you sure it's not the fuel pump you are hearing? If you pulled the right fuse, there should be no noise from the ESCL.

Sounds like your clutch switch needs adjustment. Car won't start if it thinks the clutch pedal is not pressed.

Thanks, I'll check that out and give it a try.

Steering Lock
 

There is another little trick for the steering lock. If the lock goes bad, and you have a no start, you can remove the steering lock and wedge the lock in the down position, which tricks the BCM into thinking that the steering wheel is unlocked and ready to start...this can be done even after the lock fails. Just an FYI!

THANKS A LOT:hello:

I just got my 2010 Roadster A/T and saw the light on once while driving - read "Key Symbol - No Key".

UPDATE PLEASE:

For those who have pulled the "Steering Lock" fuse (next to the battery)
Have you had any problems since (any further warning lights)?
Has the car performed properly without this fuse?
How long has it been pulled?
Is it currently covered by a Nissan recall?

I have No Problem modding my machines to make them better - just being careful first!

That fuse powers the motor in the ESCL and, IIRC, nothing else. Pulling the fuse will not have an effect on any other part of the car. The FSM has schematics showing what's going on.
I removed the fuse in my '09 Touring and had zero problems related to ESCL fuse removal for the two years or so I kept the car after that.

There's a link in my sig to a thread that summarizes a lot of the posts on this site abput ESCL problems/fixes. Hasn't been updated in quite a while, but things haven't really changed since last update.

Thank you guys so much for the DIY. I laughed when the dealer told me to pay $1,221. One question I have is does the key fob go away or is it gona stay on? Do I have to manually delete the code? Thanks again guys

I went in for an oil change last week and I was notified of a recall on my car. I asked what the recall was for and they said it was for this steering lock issue.
Then I remembered reading this thread and decided to shed light on the recall.
They too quoted the repair at over$1000, but was covered because of the recall.
It was a Nissan dealer in Orlando.

Hooray for the370z!

And welcome back, brah ;)

:wtf2:

Lmao, I decided to only make threads/posts/replies when it pertains strictly to 370Z related cosmetic/mechanical issues.
So no worries. Hakuna Matata!

Well, that didn't last long :rofl2:

Just another story...

Was at work and decided to go out for lunch. Pressed the "button" and no response from my car.

Crap.

Coworkers laughed. I endured the "sorry bro" comments from my friends, stared at my steering wheel as I maniacally pressed the "button" multiple times completely shocked by my fairlady's lack of response.

Damn it. What happened? *heart torn*

Went back in to the office. Holy $#!%. 1200? But wait. Ok. There's a recall. Mine's a 2010. Called my local dealership.

"Your vin has no recall linked." What?
"Even if it was linked you're outside of your warranty." $@#!

Continued to read through forums. Watched an awesome easy video from Benny B on youtube. Grabbed a hammer and a screwdriver.

15 mins later... I'm grabbing lunch in my Z.

THANK YOU EVERYONE. THANK YOU THANK YOU.
Thank you BAER383, bdi99, fritz, rhd and daisuke!!!!
God Bless you.

#saved1200today #didyoupullyourfuse?

I'm still kinda up in the air on this though..

check out my situation.

initially pulled the fuse, was notified by the dealer to bring it in for the recall, so i put the fuse back in, they did the recall fix... just recently, my "key" indicator light goes on on my cluster.. i swapped both batteries in the fobs (didn't turn off indicator light), pulled the fuse (didn't turn off indicator light), disconnected the battery for a good 5 minutes (that actually worked) but the indicator light came back on (its been on ever since, probably a good 2 months easily).

Thoughts? Anyone having the same issue?

Take that to the dealer, there are some horror stories around here where people will have that light for a period of time and one day suddenly the car will not start and must be towed, cant recall the issue exactly though but Nissan seems to have a Key FOB issue... My rogue FOB also gave out

Just pulled the fuse on my 09, literally 10 minute job. Thanks!