Nissan 370Z Forum

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-   -   Steering lock problem solved (for real) (http://www.the370z.com/nissan-370z-general-discussions/55315-steering-lock-problem-solved-real.html)

Baer383 05-27-2012 07:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wheee! (Post 1739246)
Hmmmm, feeling a little stupid here......

I tried removing the fuse box beside the battery, but after removing the battery cover, rain guard moulding, windshield glass/wiper molding, and attempting to lift the IPDM ER fuse box, I finally gave up! I couldn't lift the box high enough to either open it or disconnect the harness to it from below. Do I have to remove the battery first???

There is a tab that you push and the whole box comes out with the wiring harness attached then you can take the cover off and you should see the fuses.

Ubetit 05-27-2012 07:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pwrhsms (Post 1739608)
Whee! and friends, GaleForce is correct. The "COIL" does receive power through CB#48.
The Throttle Motor Control Relay as a whole does not receive its sole power from CB#48 but also from CB#51 but the coil does receive its power from CB#48.

I am unsure what the coil is there for but when you remove CB #48 you will remove power to the coil of the Throttle Motor Control Relay. Attached is a thumbnail with circles for that little black dot AND arrows for tracing the circuit to the ECM for everyones viewing pleasure.

I AM NOT SAYING THIS DOESN'T WORK. I am just saying that GaleForce IS right and we don't know what signal the COIL provides at the ECM for both the Steering lock and the Throttle Control.

Your diagram is incorrect. The only connection between the SLR and TCMR is an 80A fuse that feeds the 4 fuses. It is the ECM relay that has a relationship with the TCMR.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8019/7...4e40d3e8_b.jpg


Confirmed by this schematic from the other thread. (Image credit to GaleForce)

http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/...9at84327PM.png

Baer383 05-27-2012 08:06 AM

You want to know what is funny is I work on cars for a living and know how to read a wiring diagram ,I wonder how many people that are looking at this truly know what they are reading.:shakes head:

No not you Ubetit.

cptspeed 05-27-2012 11:41 AM

I work on elevator controls for a living and these diagrams are truly elementary. Thanks for the find, i will be pulling the fuse today.

Baer383 05-27-2012 11:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cptspeed (Post 1739961)
I work on elevator controls for a living and these diagrams are truly elementary. Thanks for the find, i will be pulling the fuse today.

Your welcome:hello:

And thank you for reading the diagrams properly.:tiphat:

SPOHN 05-27-2012 12:27 PM

Super epic. Great job Frank and Dai

happytheman 05-27-2012 04:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ubetit (Post 1739730)
Your diagram is incorrect. The only connection between the SLR and TCMR is an 80A fuse that feeds the 4 fuses. It is the ECM relay that has a relationship with the TCMR.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8019/7...4e40d3e8_b.jpg


Confirmed by this schematic from the other thread. (Image credit to GaleForce)

http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/...9at84327PM.png

Yup, this is exactly how I understood the schematic! Thanks for the post!:tup:

KaienZ34 05-27-2012 04:52 PM

Damnit, i just paid for my bypass plug last night. I thought someone had tried the fuse removal first, as if seems like the easiest thing to do.

Baer383 05-27-2012 05:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KaienZ34 (Post 1740324)
Damnit, i just paid for my bypass plug last night. I thought someone had tried the fuse removal first, as if seems like the easiest thing to do.

they may have but this fuse box is hidden next to the battery and does not look like a fuse box b/c it is about 4in x 6in.

KaienZ34 05-27-2012 05:25 PM

Cool deal thanks and reps to you and my lovely DAI.....

happytheman 05-27-2012 05:29 PM

Looks like I've got some work to do. :tup: +rep

simota1 05-27-2012 06:06 PM

god damn it i sent the money for the harness last week :facepalm:

simota1 05-27-2012 06:07 PM

good find though guys :tup:

bdl99 05-27-2012 07:31 PM

Cool.

Looking at the diagram, the only thing I noticed regarding the cut the wire vs pull the fuse approach is the point highlighted below.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-J...4327pm-BDL.png

With the pull the fuse method the point highlighted with the blue arrow wont be powered going in to the CPU. I'm not saying it makes any difference, but when cutting the brown wire it is breaking the circuit further downstream and therefore that point will continue to be fed with power, where as removing the fuse it will not. Again not saying it makes any difference but would think that point serves some purpose, maybe just an error code?

Baer383 05-27-2012 08:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bdl99 (Post 1740633)
Cool.

Looking at the diagram, the only thing I noticed regarding the cut the wire vs pull the fuse approach is the point highlighted below.
With the pull the fuse method the point highlighted with the blue arrow wont be powered going in to the CPU. I'm not saying it makes any difference, but when cutting the brown wire it is breaking the circuit further downstream and therefore that point will continue to be fed with power, where as removing the fuse it will not. Again not saying it makes any difference but would think that point serves some purpose, maybe just an error code?

No codes,no problems,the car has been running,driving,parked,locked,unlocked and everything we could think off no CEL it just acts like a normal 370 but with no steering lock.And that location marked with the blue arrow @ the cpu is for the steering lock so it doesn't come in to play.

bdl99 05-27-2012 09:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Baer383 (Post 1740683)
No codes,no problems,the car has been running,driving,parked,locked,unlocked and everything we could think off no CEL it just acts like a normal 370 but with no steering lock.And that location marked with the blue arrow @ the cpu is for the steering lock so it doesn't come in to play.

But you agree that the blue arrow is an input to the CPU and it won't be hot without the fuse? It wouldn't be an indication of the steering lock status because it would always be hot as long as the relay was activated which the CPU already knows because it triggers the relay via the earth/ground feed above the blue arrow and the status of the lock is communicated by the other wires going from the steering lock to the CPU. As I said it is great that there appears to be no down sides, but it is also unusual for a circuit to include a feed like that if it isn't used. It could simply be for the CPU to know that the activation of the relay was successful, but without seeing the inside of the CPU or having access to the code there would be no way of knowing for sure.

SurfDog 05-27-2012 10:02 PM

I just bought my 09 370Z (assuming I have a failure prone lock)
Thanks a TON I was sweating this impending failure!!!

Baer383 05-27-2012 10:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bdl99 (Post 1740807)
But you agree that the blue arrow is an input to the CPU and it won't be hot without the fuse? It wouldn't be an indication of the steering lock status because it would always be hot as long as the relay was activated which the CPU already knows because it triggers the relay via the earth/ground feed above the blue arrow and the status of the lock is communicated by the other wires going from the steering lock to the CPU. As I said it is great that there appears to be no down sides, but it is also unusual for a circuit to include a feed like that if it isn't used. It could simply be for the CPU to know that the activation of the relay was successful, but without seeing the inside of the CPU or having access to the code there would be no way of knowing for sure.

Actually I don't see the blue arrow as a input from the S/L ,but as a CPU output to the S/L thats why when the fuse is removed the power is taken from that wire(fuse 48) and then no input is given to the S/L via that wire.And again there have been no issue and no codes.

Trips 05-27-2012 10:43 PM

Please remember this is the Tech Section and not the General Section so STAY ON TOPIC!

Back On Topic!


Like it has been said Good find :tup:

bdl99 05-27-2012 10:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Baer383 (Post 1740868)
Actually I don't see the blue arrow as a input from the S/L ,but as a CPU output to the S/L thats why when the fuse is removed the power is taken from that wire(fuse 48) and then no input is given to the S/L via that wire.And again there have been no issue and no codes.


I don't see it as either. It is an input from the relay to the CPU. The relay is activated by the wire above the blue arrow, completing the circuit and energizing the coil in the relay. 12V then flows from the fuse through the relay and in to the CPU and the S/L. 12V is fed to both the CPU and the S/L.

Baer383 05-27-2012 10:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Triple's (Post 1740928)
Please remember this is the Tech Section and not the General Section so STAY ON TOPIC!

Back On Topic!


Like it has been said Good find :tup:

Thanks Trip,that has been my intent from the beginning.:hello:

alexanderb 05-27-2012 11:47 PM

Sorry for the stupid question but should i pull the fuse while the car is at the "on" position? As soon as you turn it off the lock engages so that would mean the car would need to be on for the lock to be disengaged before pulling the fuse?

Thanks! :tup:

daisuke149 05-28-2012 01:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alexanderb (Post 1741005)
Sorry for the stupid question but should i pull the fuse while the car is at the "on" position? As soon as you turn it off the lock engages so that would mean the car would need to be on for the lock to be disengaged before pulling the fuse?

Thanks! :tup:

correct.

JAYNO20 05-28-2012 01:07 AM

Just did this, its seriously like 7 clips and you have access to the fuse box...

petetlr 05-28-2012 07:15 AM

My Z is a 2010 how would I be able to tell if I need to do this? I keep reading the threads regarding this issue and all of then said early 2010's what is the difference between the 2010 model?

KaienZ34 05-28-2012 07:19 AM

Look under your steering wheel at the lock and see what version you have. Rev A, Rev B, Rev C, or Rev D.

SPOHN 05-28-2012 08:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by petetlr (Post 1741196)
My Z is a 2010 how would I be able to tell if I need to do this? I keep reading the threads regarding this issue and all of then said early 2010's what is the difference between the 2010 model?

I would do it reguardless of what model

Baer383 05-28-2012 08:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JAYNO20 (Post 1741078)
Just did this, its seriously like 7 clips and you have access to the fuse box...

Thank you for being the first to do this other than us to confirm that it works.:tup:

daisuke149 05-28-2012 09:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SPOHN (Post 1741219)
I would do it reguardless of what model

Chris you need to do it. leave the fuse at home too. weight savings for track bro. and since its in the front, its gonna help the balance!

P.S get that battery.

SPOHN 05-28-2012 09:17 AM

I am. Today. I'm also removing my radio, speakers, and door panels.

daisuke149 05-28-2012 09:18 AM

nice man. you should weigh the batteries. be interesting to hear the diff.

SPOHN 05-28-2012 09:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by daisuke149 (Post 1741305)
nice man. you should weigh the batteries. be interesting to hear the diff.

I really need to get a light weight battery.

Baer383 05-28-2012 09:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by daisuke149 (Post 1741302)
Chris you need to leave the cheese burger at home too. weight savings for track bro.since its in the front, its gonna help your balance!



Fixed!!!:hello:

SPOHN 05-28-2012 09:36 AM

I will never give that up

LMBmikeZ 05-28-2012 09:42 AM

With regards to the bdl99 and baers conversation has anyone figured out what the output wires (#106, 111, 97 & 98) from the S/L are going? I don't have access to the full schematics just going off the drawings in this thread. But I to would be a little concerned about what those output signals are feeding.

I agree that pulling the fuse will work I am just wondering what will not be getting signals from the S/L

Baer383 05-28-2012 09:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LMBmikeZ (Post 1741339)
With regards to the bdl99 and baers conversation has anyone figured out what the output wires (#106, 111, 97 & 98) from the S/L are going? I don't have access to the full schematics just going off the drawings in this thread. But I to would be a little concerned about what those output signals are feeding.

I agree that pulling the fuse will work I am just wondering what will not be getting signals from the S/L

(106,11,97,98)are outputs from the body control module to the steering lock so for this they are irrelevant.

you guys are reading into this WAY too much into this just take the fuse out and if you don't like it you can put it back in.

Dai(co-founder)and another guy chimed in and said everything is OK.

SPOHN 05-28-2012 10:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Baer383 (Post 1741361)

you guys are reading into this WAY too much just take the fuse out and if you don't like it you can put it back in.

This

Baer383 05-28-2012 10:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SPOHN (Post 1741383)
This

into this:icon23:

wheee! 05-28-2012 10:40 AM

3 Attachment(s)
I finally grew a pair and pulled the fuse box up and out... it was being held in by the harness, so be careful when pulling it out. Here are the pics people are waiting for....

The first picture shows where I pulled the fuse and the second one denotes it's location in the box.

AGAIN! MAKE SURE THE CAR IS IN 'ACCESSORY' MODE FIRST!!!!

daisuke149 05-28-2012 10:42 AM

Thanks man. Was thinking of doing the photos and maybe a video of it today. but it might storm out.

If anyone in the atlanta area is apprehensive and wants help doing it.. just pm me and we can meet up n all.

Could possibly video the whole process and upload it to youtube.


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