Originally Posted by LunaZ Then he's definitely not pushing it hard enough.
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05-10-2012, 01:43 PM | #4366 (permalink) |
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05-10-2012, 01:48 PM | #4367 (permalink) | |
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as for suspension mods... if you're happy with how the car drives i would just leave it alone. it's like opening up a can of worms. unless you know how to setup a car and willing to mess with it, 99% of the time people will make their cars handle worse but claim it is better just because it feels stiffer and something changed. yep. and im a very picky guy too when it comes to cars. somethings are better left alone, unless one is willing to put the effort to make it actually better. i think there is room for improvement on the Z, but it's not worth the sideeffects for me. my next step is to try the PSS and see where it takes me. RE050 was on the choppy side, DW is on the smooth/soft side. im hoping the PSS lands me in the middle. |
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05-10-2012, 01:52 PM | #4368 (permalink) |
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Ken, PSS are stiff but smooth. Super grippy but quiet. Soft compound but long lasting.
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05-10-2012, 01:57 PM | #4369 (permalink) | |
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i always suggest learn the limit of the car where it starts to power drift. i think most people are unsure when the car starts to slide and kick out so they are scared (or nervous) of the sway of the car. they want the obvious YES i am not sliding, YES i am sliding feedback. one needs to be patient when the car sways and feel the car at its breaking point, imagine the yaw angle in one's head and counter steer a just enough to make the car point in the right direction. once you get the hang of it i dont think the sway will bother you. it does not bother me at all actually. the reason why i run swaybars on my G is because of the progressive-rate spring prokits. the turn-in response was muffled so wanted the car to turn in the direction i pointed it quicker. with the simultaneous damp adjustment of the d-specs i was able to get a good medium of turn in and bump damping. with the koni's thats the one thing i dont like. it's rebound control only so you're stuck with the bound they give you. and that is one reason why im not rushing to get them. |
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05-10-2012, 02:06 PM | #4371 (permalink) |
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Sway bars are very personal. Some like it stiff some like it soft.
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05-10-2012, 02:07 PM | #4372 (permalink) |
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ummmm.....
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05-10-2012, 02:14 PM | #4375 (permalink) | |
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I try, having scoliosis doesn't help with sleeping. Might have sleep apnea as well.
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05-10-2012, 02:15 PM | #4376 (permalink) |
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05-10-2012, 02:17 PM | #4377 (permalink) |
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It is not a pain at all. If you are thinking Koni/Swift then once you get the Konis adjusted for your driving style, there is no more maintenance than you would have with an OEM setup.
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05-10-2012, 02:18 PM | #4378 (permalink) |
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Swifts + Konis + Sways would be easy to maintain. The only thing I can think of is periodically checking to make sure the sway bar bushings are properly greased.
On the 5.0 I am running a watts link which uses spherical rod-ends. I have to grease them every 2-4 weeks or so otherwise they squeak. Same with my lower control arms. Oh well... labor of love. Also, happy to announce I am ahead of schedule with this crap at work. I should have everything done by tomorrow afternoon and can leave for ZDayZ stress free, only to jump back into it on the 22nd.
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05-10-2012, 02:21 PM | #4379 (permalink) |
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yah, spring, damper, sways are pretty easy to maintain once it's all set up. ive had endlinks fail and some springs sag (TEIN) in the past but swifts are higher-end than TEIN and linear rate so shouldn't be a problem.
i read one post in the suspension section about a leaking koni yellow. might want to follow that to see how the situation is resolved with the warranty replacement etc. yellows are notorious for having bad lots from time to time. must be a european thing. |
05-10-2012, 02:24 PM | #4380 (permalink) |
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here's the thread on the leaking one. another area to check is on the shell casing. pull up boot and see.
Leaking Brand New Koni Yellow |
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