0-100KMH = 0-62MPH = slower than 0-60MPH. You'd be surprised the difference 2MPH can have on a time.

European tests are done using 0-100KMH.

Journalists use GPS based equipment to measure distance traveled.

Journalists also launch using torque-braking on automatics (revving to 2.5K RPM before launch) or clutch dumping at 4K RPM on 6MTs.

1/4 miles and 0-60s are also measured with 1-foot rollouts, which is why when people try this mounted logging equipment they get results that are significantly higher than what people actually achieve on a real 1/4 mile strip. It's no myth that a 370Z can hit 60MPH in high-4s, easily. Just look at the 1/4 mile times some of these stock cars run, low 13s and high 12s?

Also, OP I see you are in an area of Macedonia that is 800-1000 feet above sea level, that hinders performance quite a bit. And I also doubt your petrol is as clean as what we have in the US, for example. So your car could be running on our equivalent of 90 or 91 octane.

Basically, there are too many factors working against you and the times you are hoping to achieve. Even your tires are different than what is offered in the US car.

Maybe 6 speed manual with decent tires can do something better, but not that much by my opinion. Anyway, my point was how much will be the difference (if there is any) on the same car with BERK and K&N's upgrade. Both items are in my hands and they should be ON this week, so I will posted the results.
Darko

Another thing, most mags did all of their reviews using a 6MT, which hits 60 in 2nd gear. A 7MT hits 60 in 3rd, so that requires 2 shifts, vs just 1.

Five feet of rollout? Not sure if serious.

True... few of this things may have affect... but a whole second, I can't easily agree with that. I only can say that I'm running on a Ultra 100S gasoline here, witch is exact 100 octane.
Darko

Not serious. I meant 1ft rollout.

100 octane in your country could be 95 in mine. We have different octane rating systems. USA uses AKI. I believe Macedonia may be using RON? Either way, you may still be underestimating all of the other variables.

Lots of factors involved. Even if it's really windy it can diminish performance. To get the exact performance of the vehicle it is usually done in specific conditions and location. Even the Bugatti high speed runs requires specific air pressures and wind speeds. Lots of things go into it. Just cause a car is stated to do 2.9 0-60mph doesn't mean it will do it every time. It's the conditions and driver and the car. Everything has to be perfect to get the accurate numbers.

First of all this wasn't the goal of this thread. As I mention before, I just wanted be sure how this moods will affect on the same car, on the same road, with same conditions. Mentioned performance were for the reference only. Maybe my car isn't that good and cannot perform as claimed, maybe I'm just a bad driver, I don't know. Anyway if anyone want's to prove the opposite, take the Racelogic and prove it.
Darko

Okay, I timed your runs myself. I can see the needle on gauge and I also know that immediately after shifting into 3rd a 7AT hits 60. I started the stopwatch numerous times the moment you launch the car and shortly after you shifted into 3rd. The result is consistently 5.2 to 5.3 seconds. A .6 disparity between your Racelogic and simply timing the tach and listening to the motor is unusual. I'd say the Racelogic isn't configured well or just not working right, imo.

My method may not be technological, but it seems more consistent.

As far as what you'll gain from mods. K&N filters won't gain you crap. They're just filters. An exhaust you'll feel, but no one can tell you what it'll do to these times - most people measure changes in dynos and 1/4 trackers. But the most important piece of the mod puzzle is the stock cats and an ECU tune which you'll feel the most.

I'm from Macedonia and I wouldn't trust the gas in that country.

Actually this is my second brand new unit, which I purchased in front on this new year from Vivid Racing, since my previous one fell off from my bike at high speed. It was still in working condition, but damaged from outside and I was doubting in the accuracy, so I purchased the another. Racelogic performance meters ($500 per unit) are very respected in this terms and I got no reason to suspect in this numbers.
Darko

Actually Octane has NOTHING to do with power,it is just to prevent knocks.

unless your running 87 octane which makes the ecu cut timing which directly effects performance so there goes your whole octane has nothing to do with power theory lol.

Post your elevation, temp, fuel type, tire pressure, tire make/model. If you are going for the fastest 0-60 times all those factors will come into play. Since you are in an auto the time is more a product of your grip which is dependent on the surface (street...cold/warm?) your tire temps...street tire? Drag radial? tire pressure, temp...etc...

If you are spinning you are obviously losing time so before you throw in the towel try noting down your parameters first. Also, you are better off going to a track which will hopefully have some rubber laid down and have some temp as well. Cooler temps mean harder rubber which means that you will spin. Of course, if you are doing this on street tires which are made for longer wear hence, harder compounds you will end up spinning and again...your times will not be very good.

Put some drag radials, warm them up, note the track, time, temp, humidity, and post up some times before/after your mods.

Good luck!