Originally Posted by UNKNOWN_370 Reread your highlight dude... 1969? Come on man. I'm not talking about one model. I mean the philosophies between east and west. But it's not 1969,
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02-19-2012, 05:21 PM | #61 (permalink) | |
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BTW how do you get a better interest rate on a longer term loan? If you are intent on paying it off in 3 years than get a 3 year loan, the interest rate will be less, AND the actual interest paid will be less. I think you are confused on how that works. On the original topic, the ONLY reason to spring for the new car would be you simply want a new car. There is no substantive reason to get a 2013, they don't look as good IMO. If you just want a new car, work the dealer for a deal on a 2012. Same thing mechanically, no out of place LED lights on the front facia. And they have an incentive to give you a better price. |
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02-20-2012, 03:30 AM | #62 (permalink) | |
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The interest rate is equal through the term but finance charges are lower over the 6 year term. That's the numbers that you don't see upfront. 3 year loans typically charge $3 extra per $1000. Anyway dude... you're going around in that useless cycle of trying to point out what people have in there garage when you haven't been to everyones house. I know plenty of people with a Z and a WRX or EVO. I don't know where you think every Z owners second car is a stang or vette. Most I know don't own both. But I do know many that have owned both... its hilarious you say that cuz I myself have been contemplating. Used EVO as a second car just because AWD sports is a different type of driving that I also enjoy. Imho buying a vetter and a Z is redundant. Even if the vette has more power. You are stating opinions and not basing anything on fact. You are implying that because of your narrow unresearched demographic surrounding your tiny world has stangs and vettes with Z's. You automatically compare the two. What I'm comparing is an autos heritage, design concept and philosophy and observing the country and culture of the countries in which that car came from. price competitve segments vs engineering competitions are two totally seperate entities. And if you've read my post? I said the only way the Z 2 seat sports car is comparable to the 4 seat muscle car grand tourers is by price comparison. The description of the 2 types of cars alone prove my point. TO FURTHER PROVE MY POINT... if you own both a vette and Z or stang and Z... obviously they aren't comparable because you get totally different driving experiences, if they were comparable? ALL YOU WOULD NEED IS ONE and not the other. You chose to buy a vette and a Z... great. But you aren't the world. Maybe you have a couple friends with a stang and Z. Guess what they aren't the world either... You are seriously confusing the commonality these cars have as sports cars vs being competitive. Last edited by UNKNOWN_370; 02-20-2012 at 03:42 AM. |
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02-20-2012, 05:51 AM | #64 (permalink) |
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I generally pay for my cars in cash... especially, if it's a toy. The only way I break that rule in on 0% financing and below invoice price on the vehicle. That way, I can take advantage of other people's money. ;-)
I keep the money in the bank or, invest it and make a little more that way. |
02-20-2012, 09:26 AM | #65 (permalink) |
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this thread makes my head hurt.....
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02-20-2012, 10:04 AM | #66 (permalink) |
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How can finance charges be less over a longer term if the interest rates are the same? That's the stupidest thing I've ever heard.
You pay LESS in interest over a shorter term than you do over a longer term. Just a quick NPV assumption of $20,000 borrowed at 3% shows you pay $938 in interest over 36 months and $1,562 over 60 months. Seriously. Wtf?
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02-20-2012, 10:05 AM | #67 (permalink) |
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And you wonder why our country is so f*cked up.
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02-20-2012, 10:20 AM | #68 (permalink) | |
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You forgot that I'm paying my 6 in 3. Ur the one being dumb because, you're making comments and not seeing the whole pic. Some one on a 3 year loan pays a few dollars more per month in finance and marginally lesss in interest. What kills the 6 year loan is time, not rate. Interest raked marginally higher finance charges a few lower. Knock it out in half the time and you can the overages of both loans. |
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02-20-2012, 10:22 AM | #69 (permalink) |
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I don't think I've verbally said "What?!" so many times while reading a single thread before. Great stuff! I would totally subscribe to your newsletter.
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02-20-2012, 10:25 AM | #70 (permalink) |
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02-20-2012, 10:26 AM | #71 (permalink) | |
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02-20-2012, 10:32 AM | #72 (permalink) | |
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No... god... what I'm saying is... over 6 years you pay slightly lower finance, BUT if you pay over 6 years it will be a almost couple grand more than the 3 year. If you pay a 6 year in 3 years or less. Its cheaper than taking a 3 year loan for 3 years. Make sense? Its like you guys forgot I'm paying a 6 yr in 2.5 to 3 years vs someone who is on a 6 year for 6. Or a 3 year for 3. You put way more money to the principle and keep finance charges down. The difference in interest is so marginal that you barely save money. Its in finance charges where therres a big difference. Last edited by UNKNOWN_370; 02-20-2012 at 10:42 AM. |
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02-20-2012, 10:38 AM | #73 (permalink) | |
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3 year loan paid in three years = paying all interest 6 year loan with similar interest paid off in 3 years = half the interest paid
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02-20-2012, 10:49 AM | #74 (permalink) | |
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6 year guy pays equal at 4 years to 3 year guy. Years 5 and 6, 6 year guy begins to pay more. Knock it out it out in 2.5 or 3 on a 6 year and pay less than both. Especialy if you make the. 2.5 deadline. Your. Second payment is totally to the principle. You save on interst, taking a long term finance and making it short term rather than paying a banks short term loan which a facad of lower payment if you do it like me. Understand? |
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02-20-2012, 11:03 AM | #75 (permalink) | |
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Personally I think you should hold on to your car. Drive the car while it's paid for and save the extra cash that you would be using on the payment and then trade up later. |
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