Ester/Dino/Synthetic Oil - Your usage.
 

OK. I did my search button and no prior post.

Anyway, what is your current oil usage? (1 qt/1000 miles? .5 qt/200 miles?). If your car is not using oil at all, let us know also.

I am also wondering if Nissan ester oil tends to burn quicker than dino or synthetic.

Thanks.

:confused: us? are you from a research team?

Break in period OEM oil (0-2000 miles): added 1/4 quart.

Nissan Ester oil (2001-3700): NO oil burning. No oil added.

Redline Synthetic Oil : (3700- till date) : Absolute no oil burning. Car runs smooth!

I run without oil - sponsored by Darpa

:icon17:

honestly, will be switching from nissan ester oil to Motul 300V 15w50 this week... at about 1,000 miles on motor + 2 track days

FYI, from Motul...
Motul 300V Competition 15W50 Motor OilMotul 300V Competition motor oil is a 100% synthetic formulation specifically designed for motorsports use. Its Double Ester Technology increases engine power and reliability. Motul 300V exceeds existing motor oil standards.
* High lubrication properties => Anti wear protection above existing standards
* Friction modifiers => Maximum power output
* 0% shear loss => Perfectly stable oil pressure
* Enhanced oxidation's stability => Extremely high temperature resistance

What happen to your motor? :icon08:

I put 1,000 miles on it ! ... :)

okay... lines weren't connected, oil spilled upon highway, engine seized... bad story... but all is good now ! :)

I thought i have to stick to standard thickness oil(5w-30):eek:
Omg...15w-50 ?? is that suitable to VQ37 engine?:confused:
what's the advantage if i use 15W-50 on non-oil cooler
installed Zs' like mine? Will it lower the oil temperature?

Leepeen
 

The answer about going to 15-50 is not a simple one however, there are times when a thicker oil may not be the best as a thinner oil may get into places that a thicker oil may not. If the oil does not lubricate then wear occurs fast. Not sure about the Nissan engine and its needs. A thinner oil may shear easier but that is not always the case across various manufacturers. I will leave this to those who know the internal components of the engine better then I. However, as I said, this is not a simple answer and will require extensive knowledge of the needs of this specific engine.

Thinner oil such as synthetics are useful here because the engine starts easier in the winters.

Well I can't speak for travis, but I imagine he's going 15W50 because it's not a daily driver, and sees hard track use when it is driven. The 15W50 won't be quite as ideal on cold start as say 5W30 or other lighter weights, but it's going to stand up to high-temp abuse better. The whole cold start protection thing matters more to us daily drivers since we do a lot more starts-per-mile, so to speak.

Getting back to main topic, I am running 800mi/qt aprox. using Royal Purple 10w-30.
2007 Nissan 350z. I haven't experienced any problem using 10w-30 and I've been using it since my very first oil change after 3700 OEM miles.

You have to add a quart every 800 miles???

I had to add about 1/2 a quart after 800 miles, oil burning stopped after that.

You nailed it... I'm in Arizona, cold starts are rare... This is 90% track car... Once oil is up to temperature, my understanding is that even 15w50 acts 'thin'... also despite the viscosity, it is rated at 0% shear loss... Finally, I'm relying in part on the recommendation of other racers in AZ

What oil are you using? (sorry if I missed it)

I am not from an oil research company :)

I started this as I noticed that my car consumed about half a qt of Nissan Ester oil (possibly up to a qt.) about 600 miles. I am wondering if it is the engine, the way I drive, the oil itself, or probably all of the above.

I'm still on the Nissan Ester oil, I may change to something else later once I hit 5000 miles. Not sure what oil that might be yet.

Travis is right on about oil viscosity. Here's a couple of typical viscosity numbers for you.

Sorry about the formatting, doesn't want to space correctly.
_________5W-30 ________ 15W-50
100F ____ 57 cSt ________ 143 cSt
220F ____ 10 cSt ________ 20 cSt

So the 15W-50 is nearly 3 times as thick at air temperatures, but twice only twice as thick at high temperatures. As the oil temperatures continue to climb towards 260 the viscosity is going to be close to 5W-30 at normal cruise around town temperatures.

Basically the oil is going to hold up better at the track but you might pay the price of increased start-up wear so it's not a good choice for a daily driver oil.

Yup...:iagree: Here's some info to back that up:

http://images50.fotki.com/v1512/phot...ture400-vi.gif

That's a nice chart. Just curious where you got that from and if the site had any further info.

+1 rep for data ! :) thanks modshack

How are you checking your engine oil level? Cold engine dipstick method or start up, bring the oil up to operating temp, turn engine off, wait 15-20 mins and then check it with the dipstick?

Can't recall where I got that as I was doing some general Viscosity/temp research and stumbled on it...

OEM oil 0-2,500 miles, no consumption
Castrol GTX 2,500-6,000 miles, no consumption
Castrol GTX 6,000- 8,900 miles, no consumption

Hey, I had data too ... his was just prettier :)

Sorry, didn't scroll up ! +1 for you too :)

Left the office for home (30 miles), parked the car in the garage, waited when the car was warm, then I checked.

I'll do your method....which is waiting for 20 minutes tomorrow.

If I continue to consume oil, I'll probably switch brand (Amsoil or Motul). If I continue to use oil, I may have the dealer perform a compression and leakdown.

I know that on Porsches, it is normal to use 1 qt every 1K miles (to my recollection). But on the Z, I do not know the norm. I will also check the manual to see if there is a norm.

Well, I think I am taking my car in. I have used 2.5 qts/2000 miles.

On my other car, it is normal to use up to 1 qt every 800 miles. On the Z, I called the dealer and they said they do not know the norm. The service department did say that over 2 qts is a lot more than what they wanted to hear.


Worst case scenario, If (and "if") they need to replace the engine (due to rings, or what-have-yah), what do you guys think? I just don't trust the dealer putting a new engine and some mechanic ends up doing short cuts (e.g., a washer, nut, bolt, or so being not re-installed). I guess getting a brand new replacement is out of the question? :)

Do you have any visible signs of leaks ? have you seriously checked over your car ? any deposits on your garage floor or parking spot ?

As for new engines, Coulter Nissan in Phoenix AZ is the first dealer in the US to replace an engine in this car. Call them and ask for Nick the service manager if you want to know about how that went. It was my car. As far as I'm concerned, good as new. In fact, I got 4 more hp on the dyno ! :)

Very interesting. With our VQs, you really have to check again and again to get the right oil level. HEre's how I do it:

a. Completely cold engine. I check the dipstick AT LEAST 2-3 times.

b. After driving the car for a while, I turn the ignition off. About 1/2 hour to 1 hour (when engine is still luke warm), I go check the engine oil level.

Two weeks ago I checked my engine oil and dipstick indicated that I need to put some oil. I was surprised. Same day in the evening I check again and the oil level is perfect!

I also faced the same problem with my 350Z. One day, I had my oil change done at the dealer. When I came home and checked the oil level, it was overfilled. I was furious :mad: ! I set up an appointment next day. Next morning when I check it, the oil level is perfect! I felt like an idiot :o. So, check your oil carefully. Dipstick in our VQ is not 100 correct. Check it atleast 3 times.

AK,

I have done everything you have specified. I have inserted and re-inserted that dipstick many times in 3 conditions: hot, cold, warm. They all point to oil consumption.

I also do not have any oil leaks. As a qualifier, though a computer-geek by profession, my primary hobbies are rebuilding german cars, engine maintenance, suspension work, crotch-rockets, and anything that deals with 'speed.' :)

I have also searched the web today and found a few postings where the Nissan VQ-engines were reported with not-so-normal oil consumption. I guess they also have an 'oil consumption' test they could do.

My motor oil is based off the blood of the 300 spartans, Hayden Panettiere (the cheerleader from Heroes), and a unicorn...let's just say that i never need to change my oil again and that my car can do the 1/4 mile....in negative...

but in all seriousness, I believe 100% synthetic 5w30 is worth it..I duno if its different for you 370z guys, but my G37 runs Motul V300 ester synthetic...I used OEM, then Nissan Ester, then Motul...hope that helps