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Swear i just gained 20 hp

So I have to ask: Should we run, skip or scurry to the nearest dyno with breathing mods in hand to see the best results our Z's ca possibly have?

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Old 11-29-2011, 07:47 AM   #16 (permalink)
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So I have to ask: Should we run, skip or scurry to the nearest dyno with breathing mods in hand to see the best results our Z's ca possibly have? I don't think of it as cheating. I think of it as best case scenario, and a true measure of our vehicle's capability.
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Old 11-29-2011, 08:32 AM   #17 (permalink)
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The only annoying thing with cold weather is that the tires lose grip. So there's a combo effect of 1) the engine actually making more power and 2) the tires having less grip, adding to the sensation of having moar power.
^fixed
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Old 11-29-2011, 08:38 AM   #18 (permalink)
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^fixed
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Old 11-29-2011, 09:04 AM   #19 (permalink)
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I guess that means it's Dyno season. Get your Dyno runs in now so you can put higher numbers in your sig and gloat all next summer when people are doing pulls in the heat
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Old 11-29-2011, 09:08 AM   #20 (permalink)
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So I have to ask: Should we run, skip or scurry to the nearest dyno with breathing mods in hand to see the best results our Z's ca possibly have? I don't think of it as cheating. I think of it as best case scenario, and a true measure of our vehicle's capability.
Doh someone beat me to it.

Really, it doesn't matter though. Temps are just yet another among so many variables that make dyno comparisons between different cars and dynos pretty much useless. The dyno number is just nice for comparing your car to itself before/after changes, on the same dyno in the same weather and fairly close together in time.

If anything you probably don't want to Dyno *Tune* in the cold winter weather as you'll get more timing out of it than you can use in the hot times. But then again, our car self-tunes timing anyways, so that probably doesn't matter much.
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Old 11-29-2011, 09:34 AM   #21 (permalink)
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I just don't like how long it takes the car to warm up when it gets this cold. Makes it harder to hit my mpg target.
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Old 11-29-2011, 02:36 PM   #22 (permalink)
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I just don't like how long it takes the car to warm up when it gets this cold. Makes it harder to hit my mpg target.
Just curious, how do we know when your cars are warmed up? I usually wait about 35 seconds for the RPMs to drop close to 1k then drive slowly out of my parking structure. Is there an official indicator of when we are warmed up enough?
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Old 11-29-2011, 02:39 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Just curious, how do we know when your cars are warmed up? I usually wait about 35 seconds for the RPMs to drop close to 1k then drive slowly out of my parking structure. Is there an official indicator of when we are warmed up enough?
I do the same on cold mornings. I will let it idle for about 30 sec. or so until the revs drop to ~1krpm and drive it normally. I won't push it hard until the oil temps are at 180, then the fun begins.
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Old 11-29-2011, 02:51 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Just curious, how do we know when your cars are warmed up? I usually wait about 35 seconds for the RPMs to drop close to 1k then drive slowly out of my parking structure. Is there an official indicator of when we are warmed up enough?
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I do the same on cold mornings. I will let it idle for about 30 sec. or so until the revs drop to ~1krpm and drive it normally. I won't push it hard until the oil temps are at 180, then the fun begins.
^ This

When the oil temp reaches 180*F you are good to go. Before then keep the revs low. Not only is the oil cold but it's also under quite a bit of pressure.
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Old 11-29-2011, 02:52 PM   #25 (permalink)
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I do the same on cold mornings. I will let it idle for about 30 sec. or so until the revs drop to ~1krpm and drive it normally. I won't push it hard until the oil temps are at 180, then the fun begins.
With an oil cooler, though, it's hard to hit 180 on short drives especially in cool weather.
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Old 11-29-2011, 02:52 PM   #26 (permalink)
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With an oil cooler, though, it's hard to hit 180 on short drives especially in cool weather.
You need to fabricate a cover for your oil cooler. You want to block off at least half of the rows in cooler weather so you can get the oil warmed up.
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Old 11-29-2011, 02:57 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Is the 180 mark important for normal highway driving where I stay mostly around 3k and below with the occasional punch for accelerating?
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Old 11-29-2011, 02:59 PM   #28 (permalink)
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I ran my car hard Sunday and Saturday nights... definately cold air changes everything. Even throttle response is better. That's why I think "COOLING" mods are most important. Better
thermostats,silicone intake and radiator hoses, better radiator,oil cooler, tranny cooler all would do a greater service to your car than all other mods in the long run. What bogs this engine down is heat. I'm not convinced that aliminum intake tubes on aftermarket CAI's will assist in bringing cooler air into the motor.
I can agree with this, i felt the same way about a lot of CAI's, that's the reason i bought all of the silicone hoses available,including the post MAF hoses ( of course, i didn't need the breather hose set). I'm very glad Z1 Motorsports had that nice black friday sale, ordered the K&N air filters too. Now all i'm waiting on is delivery of my girl Vanity.

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Old 11-29-2011, 03:01 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Is the 180 mark important for normal highway driving where I stay mostly around 3k and below with the occasional punch for accelerating?
Yes you want to get your oil above 180 even in normal driving. If you are making quick trips obviously there is nothing you can do, but if you are in the car longer you really want to get those oil temps up above 180 for sustained driving. And you want the oil warm regardless of how long you're driving if you plan on revving the car at all.
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Old 11-29-2011, 03:03 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Okay, thanks. Are there any threads about fabricating something to partially block the oil cooler?
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