SYNTHETIC. Well my Z has seen a huge change in performance. Aggressive driving, the Z stayed steady at 190 degrees with an average temp outside of 53 degrees. This past
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10-29-2011, 11:52 AM | #1 (permalink) |
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fall weather. the Z is staying at 190 degrees with,
SYNTHETIC. Well my Z has seen a huge change in performance. Aggressive driving, the Z stayed steady at 190 degrees with an average temp outside of 53 degrees. This past week I haven't seen more than 230. All excellent temps. I know the weather is the culprit. Hmmm. It seems k&n filter and a good synthetic oil keep this car at bay in fall and temps below 90 degree weather.
Which garners this question. Would adding an oil cooler for intense summer heat damage the car during cooler and winter months when driving? I'm in texas so putting the Z away for winter is about 4 to 6 weeks... lol. Is there a way to disengage oil cooling during winter months without removing the unit. I've never driven either Z in such cool weather and its doing insanely well. |
10-29-2011, 12:58 PM | #3 (permalink) |
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so this is full synthetic then?
i currently run mobil1 silver cap and temps are around 190-220 range which is normal for the car, i thinks. ambient temp 35F to 42F during the drive.... (spirited drive). |
10-29-2011, 01:48 PM | #4 (permalink) |
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Mine staying at 165 degrees, but then again I have 34 row oil cooler.
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10-29-2011, 03:19 PM | #5 (permalink) |
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I would think that is a bit low from everything i have seen and read. Seems like you would want at least 190 once warmed up.
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10-29-2011, 06:48 PM | #8 (permalink) |
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You need something to cover a good part of the core. That's way, way, way too low.
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10-29-2011, 06:55 PM | #9 (permalink) |
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Bought my car a week ago so it has not been over 185-190. I'm not sure what's going to happen in the summer.
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10-29-2011, 07:07 PM | #10 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
165* is still way too low for automotive oil to function the way it was intended. I would imagine it is VERY thick at 165*, as compared to the 200=ish it is made to work at. Too thick = not getting where it needs to go/extra strain on the oil-pump, etc. etc. |
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10-29-2011, 07:52 PM | #11 (permalink) |
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I let mine warm up for a while in the driveway then take it real easy untill she gets around 180+.
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10-29-2011, 08:03 PM | #12 (permalink) |
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Shouldn't the thermostatic sandwich plate not allow oil to flow to the cooler until it achieves whatever temperature threshold at which the plate is set? I thought that is how it worked. Maybe not, though.
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10-29-2011, 08:16 PM | #13 (permalink) |
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The plate never closes all the way, if it did then the cold oil from the cooler would slam the engine when the plate did open and that's no good. It stays slightly open all the time and opens up all the way at around 180*.
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10-29-2011, 08:19 PM | #14 (permalink) | |
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This is how i do it also, let it run a good while when it's cold out and keep the rpm's under 2k-2500ish until over 180*. This winter i think i'll cover most of the cooler so i don't have to worry as much. Also putting an oil pressure gauge in just in case a leak would happen.
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10-29-2011, 09:56 PM | #15 (permalink) |
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Modern engines are built to get you to operating temperature as fast as possible, you are going to slow the process by letting the car idle and warm up? What is this, 1965s on carb. cars? Just drive it normal and don't beat on it when it is cold, common sense.
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