Oil Cooler Install Thread

[spearfish25]

My engine temps are climbing with the warming weather and the oil cooler issue continues to be at the forefront of my thoughts.

That being said, finding the right kit is problematic. Can you guys post a few things to simplify this process for others? Here are some helpful ideas:

1) what kit did you install (brand, number of rows, size, etc)?
2) who did your install? how did you find your mechanic (if one was used)?
3) what temperature drop did you get with your respective cooler?
4) if you did it yourself, please post the steps either here or in the DIY forum
5) did you include a thermostat? If so, how did you install it?

With a little guidance from those of you who have pulled it off, hopefully it will be a bit easier for the rest of us when we try.

Thanks!

[RCZ]

1) what kit did you install (brand, number of rows, size, etc)?

Stillen Upgraded oil cooler kit.

2) who did your install? how did you find your mechanic (if one was used)?

My two mechs and I. I found them online through forums.

3) what temperature drop did you get with your respective cooler?

I can't push it past 220 on the street (traffic). (and I've been trying)
Highway cruise at 180-190 regardless of outside temperature.

4) if you did it yourself, please post the steps either here or in the DIY forum

Stillen OIL COOLER, Headers, Catback and Light Weight Pulley (Pictures A-plenty)

5) did you include a thermostat? If so, how did you install it?

Nope, but then again I live in Miami so I don't need one. You can get a thermostatic sandwich adapter.

[wstar]

Originally Posted by RCZ

5) did you include a thermostat? If so, how did you install it?

Nope, but then again I live in Miami so I don't need one. You can get a thermostatic sandwich adapter.

This is something I was wondering about too, actually. I'm in Houston. Generally our weather ranges from hot and muggy to f*****g hot and muggy. However, we do get a few cold days in the winter (it might actually freeze 1 or 2 nights a year in the dead of winter), and that aside, even a 50 or 60 degree winter day is pretty damn cold compared to 180 degree oil.

So what's the scoop on the necessity of a thermostat? I would assume it basically boils down to: "you need one if you can't keep your oil up to 180 with the cooler due to cold weather", but how cold does the weather have to be to make that an issue?

[sensi09]

Other than size, is there any real difference in quality between brands.

Any reason not to buy the least expensive alternative?

[RCZ]

Oil coolers all do the same thing. The only real thing that varies is quality of the pieces and capacity.

The greater capacity you have, the better, but you will pay more for the part. The trick is to find the best balance between quality, capacity and price. Setrab makes some of the best cores available, so you want to have a setrab core. The lines and the fittings to attach the lines vary as well. Some of the best stuff you can get for the fittings is AN lines. As far as the lines go, the best thing you can do is get stainless lines. If you try to built a kit on your own, chances are you wont get as good a price even if you go directly to the manufacturers. Companies like stillen have the advantage that they can get bigger discounts on the parts and believe it or not, they are passing the savings over to us. I priced the same exact set as stillen offers and it came out to more if I got it directly on my own.

The other thing you have to take into account is that your engine is riding on this oil cooling kit. If something breaks then you are in trouble. So you want to get the best quality that you can afford. Personally, I think the Stillen is priced very well and it is made up of quality parts. You can't go wrong there.

[spearfish25]

I ordered the Stillen kit and it should ship on Monday. Josh from Stillen who routinely posts on this forum is looking into thermostats and should get back to me tomorrow as I plan to include one in the order. If things go as planned, I'll meet with my mechanic next Saturday to install the cooler.

This has been a double edged sword for me. I don't want my car running hot as it will shorten the engine life. However, if I install the cooler and the cooler fails, the engine damage may be severe. I finally figured that if I can get the cooler installed correctly, the overall result will be beneficial. If the engine oil warning light ever popped 'on', I'd pull over immediately and check the oil cooler system first.

[Diversion]

I'd be down to ditch the voltage meter/clock for an oil pressure sensor.. that would be very useful.

[wstar]

Originally Posted by Diversion

I'd be down to ditch the voltage meter/clock for an oil pressure sensor.. that would be very useful.

Yeah... I'm going to be using Magden for digital gauges on a lot of the stuff our dash is missing, but oil pressure is something where I'd really like to have a hard real gauge hooked up. As I understand it, our cars have an oil pressure sensor already that feeds the ECU for a dummy light, but I don't see how you'd re-use that hole/sensor really. Has anyone looked into how to go about adding an independent oil pressure gauge (perhaps inline with one of the cooler fittings? where would be most appropriate? Post-cooler?) I think (someone correct me if I'm wrong) that with the standard sandwich plates, the basic flow is pan -> pump -> cooler -> filter -> top of engine -> drain back to pan, right?

[Modshack]

It's not hard to put together a quality DIY Oil cooler for a reasonable amount of money.. I have the following parts on order to do one up. Went with a Tru-cool cooler...Very affordable, nice quality and good success on the last car I used one on. Also went with a Mocal 180 degree thermostatic sandwich plate that ran the price up about $50. Most of the prefabbed kits use a standard plate with no temp control which can be detrimental in cold climates as it takes a LONG time for the oil to get up to temp. Quality Aeroquip hoses and AN10 socketless fittings complete the package. Install should be a piece of cake.

Parts list:

10 AER-FBN1000 -10 Aeroquip Socketless Hose, Black $43.70
2 AER-FCM2039 Aeroquip 90 Degree Male Elbow, Aluminum - Aeroquip 90 Degree Male Elbow, Alum. -10 to 1/2" Adapter $22.48
2 AER-FCM1534 Aeroquip Socketless 90 Degree Elbow Fitting - -10 Aeroquip Socketless 90 Degree Elbow Fitting $33.36
2 AER-FCM1514 Aeroquip Straight Socketless Fitting - -10 Aeroquip Socketless Straight Fitting $14.50
1 MOC-2BM810A Mocal 1/2" x -10 ORB fitting $15.99
1 MOC-SP1FT Mocal Sandwich Plate- 20mm Thread $86.95
1 TRU-L7B TRU-Cool 24 Row Racing Oil Cooler $44.95

Shipping Rate: $8.85
Subtotal: $270.78

From Racer Parts Wholesale

[LiquidZ]

Originally Posted by Modshack

It's not hard to put together a quality DIY Oil cooler for a reasonable amount of money.. I have the following parts on order to do one up. Went with a Tru-cool cooler...Very affordable, nice quality and good success on the last car I used one on. Also went with a Mocal 180 degree thermostatic sandwich plate that ran the price up about $50. Most of the prefabbed kits use a standard plate with no temp control which can be detrimental in cold climates as it takes a LONG time for the oil to get up to temp. Quality Aeroquip hoses and AN10 socketless fittings complete the package. Install should be a piece of cake.

Parts list:

10 AER-FBN1000 -10 Aeroquip Socketless Hose, Black $43.70
2 AER-FCM2039 Aeroquip 90 Degree Male Elbow, Aluminum - Aeroquip 90 Degree Male Elbow, Alum. -10 to 1/2" Adapter $22.48
2 AER-FCM1534 Aeroquip Socketless 90 Degree Elbow Fitting - -10 Aeroquip Socketless 90 Degree Elbow Fitting $33.36
2 AER-FCM1514 Aeroquip Straight Socketless Fitting - -10 Aeroquip Socketless Straight Fitting $14.50
1 MOC-2BM810A Mocal 1/2" x -10 ORB fitting $15.99
1 MOC-SP1FT Mocal Sandwich Plate- 20mm Thread $86.95
1 TRU-L7B TRU-Cool 24 Row Racing Oil Cooler $44.95

Shipping Rate: $8.85
Subtotal: $270.78

From Racer Parts Wholesale

Let us know how it turns out!

[miguez]

Originally Posted by Modshack

1 MOC-SP1FT Mocal Sandwich Plate- 20mm Thread $86.95

Hey Modshack,

Great idea, thanks for sharing. I see this sandwich plate has a 180º thermostat. Just to make sure I understand it, this means that if the oil is below 180º, it will bypass the cooler automatically, correct?

Also, I assume there is no way to adjust this temperature threshold? Just trying to learn more about these sandwich plates.

Thanks!

[spearfish25]

I'm prepping for my Stillen kit install. How did you guys purge the oil cooler once it was installed? I've seen various ways listed for other cars but would prefer to know exactly what works for the 370Z. One method I heard of was fully depressing the accelerator while cranking the motor (not sure how to continuously crank the engine with a push button starter). The other way was to pull the fuse on the ECU (again, not sure how to do that yet) and crank the engine again.

Finally, how does the oil cooler stay filled when the car is shut down? Having not seen it on the car yet, it's hard to visualize. But if the cooler sits higher than the oil pan, won't the oil flow back to the pan and empty the cooler each time you shut the car off? (There is a good chance I'm just not understanding the mechanics of the system...the mechanic installing it better have more knowledge).

Advice welcome!

[Modshack]

Originally Posted by miguez

Hey Modshack,

Great idea, thanks for sharing. I see this sandwich plate has a 180º thermostat. Just to make sure I understand it, this means that if the oil is below 180º, it will bypass the cooler automatically, correct?

Also, I assume there is no way to adjust this temperature threshold? Just trying to learn more about these sandwich plates.

Thanks!

That's exactly how they work...You do not run the risk of the oil running too cool, or not getting up to the minimum recommended 180 degrees..Though since I believe the oil system is plumbed through the Water system, the temps should stabilize at at least the normal water coolant temp of 180-190. It just may take the oil a little longer to get to that point if the cooler is running all the time (no thermostatic plate). I'm in NC so it's probably not critical, but if I lived in any of the Northern states I'd do the thermostat. Outboard ones with AN fittings can be added..

[Diversion]

Originally Posted by wstar

Yeah... I'm going to be using Magden for digital gauges on a lot of the stuff our dash is missing, but oil pressure is something where I'd really like to have a hard real gauge hooked up. As I understand it, our cars have an oil pressure sensor already that feeds the ECU for a dummy light, but I don't see how you'd re-use that hole/sensor really. Has anyone looked into how to go about adding an independent oil pressure gauge (perhaps inline with one of the cooler fittings? where would be most appropriate? Post-cooler?) I think (someone correct me if I'm wrong) that with the standard sandwich plates, the basic flow is pan -> pump -> cooler -> filter -> top of engine -> drain back to pan, right?

Although it would be really nice to just tap into the stock oil pressure wire that goes to the ECU but I don't think it's the the right type that can output to a gauge (as with most factory oil pressure sensors). I'll see what I can find about it.. and i'll look into a decent sandwich adapter setup.

Jay

[Modshack]

Originally Posted by Diversion

Although it would be really nice to just tap into the stock oil pressure wire that goes to the ECU but I don't think it's the the right type that can output to a gauge (as with most factory oil pressure sensors). I'll see what I can find about it.. and i'll look into a decent sandwich adapter setup.

Jay

You will definitely need to "T" that sender and add one that is compatible with your gauge..... There are fittings available for this..