Oil Cooler Install Thread

Modshack · 05-06-2009, 02:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wstar

Yeah mine never moves off of that dot either (looks like the second one below the center mark to me), regardless of oil temps. Apparently the radiator is sized well (perhaps even overdone all things considered) for the amount of heat going into the coolant, there just isn't enough heat transfer from the oil to the coolant inside the engine block to get much oil cooling done, or we'd see the water temps go up when the oil gets extreme.

.... the point was that the Water temp "Gauge" isn't a real indcator of temperature as discussed above. On my old Audi TT, there was a "smoothed" output to the gauge that essentially left it in the middle except for extremes..
The Z appears to be the same, and yes, the water cooling system seems to have enough overhead to handle most conditions which is good.....Just don't count on the indicator! My scangauge accesses the actual temp sensor output rather than the smoothed output and seems accurate to the degree. This car runs pretty cool water wise...

spearfish25 · 05-06-2009, 03:07 PM

Wonder if there is a way to plumb a line along the oil pan for better heat exchange with the water cooling system.

SoCal 370Z · 05-06-2009, 03:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spearfish25

Wonder if there is a way to plumb a line along the oil pan for better heat exchange with the water cooling system.

Don't some the aftermarket turbochargers use an pan block/extender to tap into?

Modshack · 05-06-2009, 04:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spearfish25

Wonder if there is a way to plumb a line along the oil pan for better heat exchange with the water cooling system.

I'm not sure you really want to do that...Using 185-200 degree water to "cool" 220 degree oil (normal driving) seems a wasted effort. A true outboard, dedicated oil cooler is what is needed..

spearfish25 · 05-06-2009, 05:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Modshack

I'm not sure you really want to do that...Using 185-200 degree water to "cool" 220 degree oil (normal driving) seems a wasted effort. A true outboard, dedicated oil cooler is what is needed..

Just playing with ideas. If it would work satisfactorily, I'd much rather have the water cooling aspect take the brunt of the load and avoid installing an oil cooler. If I had a water coolant leak it's a much smaller deal than having a sudden large oil leak and loss of oil pressure.

As you noted, there wouldn't be a large temperature differential making it less than ideal and perhaps useless unless oil temps climbed into the 240s+.

Modshack · 05-06-2009, 06:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spearfish25

. If I had a water coolant leak it's a much smaller deal than having a sudden large oil leak and loss of oil pressure.

With a careful install and quality parts that shouldn't be an issue..

alan93rsa · 05-06-2009, 07:49 PM

Quote:

If I had a water coolant leak it's a much smaller deal than having a sudden large oil leak and loss of oil pressure.

Porsche went the oil/water cooling method in the 944 turbo. And they did run into problems with one of the gaskets in the cooling console. Think oil water milkshake. It wasn't pretty. My 944 turbo S had this problem.

Modshack · 05-15-2009, 11:28 AM

Parts in. May do the DIY this weekend....

shumby · 05-15-2009, 11:50 AM

man you guys worry about oil leaks a cheep oil collers f'ing up. I would only use crimped on fittings on my oil lines not press on ones. Take your hose get the length you want then go to a hydralic shop and get them to crimp on some ends for you. Lookes like #6 JIC end maybe #4.

Modshack · 05-15-2009, 11:56 AM

Aeroquipt socketless fittings are hardly cheap. They are widely used in industrial applications and good to 250psi. It is a simpler alternative to traditional AN10 connectors. Do a google like I did and your thinking may change..

shumby · 05-15-2009, 12:19 PM

sorry did not mean to say the fitting were cheep. I work on an offshore oilrig and deal with hydrolic fitting all the time. Mind you I deal with 3500 PSI Working pressure. You are right the fitting are good to 200+psi. I just have found that crimped fitting are always better and give you less to worry about. The commet I made about being cheep was not directed at the fitting themselves but at people saying not to buy a chhep ol cooler, which this is not. But then being happy with socketless connectors when crimped on ends are better if not a bit of overkill though. Word of advice check those JIC fitting everytime you change your oil as they do like to slowly back off from vibration. But for the love of god dont over torque them or you will be asking for a leek.

Modshack · 05-15-2009, 12:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shumby

sorry did not mean to say the fitting were cheep. I work on an offshore oilrig and deal with hydrolic fitting all the time. Mind you I deal with 3500 PSI Working pressure. You are right the fitting are good to 200+psi. I just have found that crimped fitting are always better and give you less to worry about. The commet I made about being cheep was not directed at the fitting themselves but at people saying not to buy a chhep ol cooler, which this is not. But then being happy with socketless connectors when crimped on ends are better if not a bit of overkill though. Word of advice check those JIC fitting everytime you change your oil as they do like to slowly back off from vibration. But for the love of god dont over torque them or you will be asking for a leek.

Ah...No problem. I've done a few cooler installs, and like you say, using quality components rarely causes a problem. If I was dealing with 3500psi pressures I'd use crimped too!

miguez · 05-15-2009, 03:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Modshack

Parts in. May do the DIY this weekend....

Hey Steve,

I am putting my cooler kit together myself also. Do you mind sharing the part numbers/dimensions of your sandwich plate, connectors, and hose?

Thanks!

Modshack · 05-15-2009, 05:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by miguez

Hey Steve,

I am putting my cooler kit together myself also. Do you mind sharing the part numbers/dimensions of your sandwich plate, connectors, and hose?

Thanks!

Hi Miguez...No problem. I think they were posted earlier in the thread but here they are again:

10 AER-FBN1000 -10 Aeroquip Socketless Hose, Black $43.70
2 AER-FCM2039 Aeroquip 90 Degree Male Elbow, Aluminum - Aeroquip 90 Degree Male Elbow, Alum. -10 to 1/2" Adapter $22.48
2 AER-FCM1534 Aeroquip Socketless 90 Degree Elbow Fitting - -10 Aeroquip Socketless 90 Degree Elbow Fitting $33.36
2 AER-FCM1514 Aeroquip Straight Socketless Fitting - -10 Aeroquip Socketless Straight Fitting $14.50
1 MOC-2BM810A Mocal 1/2" x -10 ORB fitting $15.99
1 MOC-SP1FT Mocal Sandwich Plate- 20mm Thread $86.95
1 TRU-L7B TRU-Cool 24 Row Racing Oil Cooler $44.95

Shipping Rate: $8.85
Subtotal: $270.78

From Racer Parts Wholesale
Racer Parts Wholesale - Award Winning Online Catalog For Real Racers

I'll do a DIY and post more pics in the Oil Cooler album at my photosite below..

miguez · 05-16-2009, 05:49 AM

Thanks Steve, looking forward to the DIY!

05-15-2009, 11:28 AM	#38 (permalink)
Modshack A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Greenville NC Posts: 2,883 Drives: 370Z Sport Rep Power: 976	Parts in. May do the DIY this weekend.... __________________ Steal my car! (SOLD)...Now Porsche Cayman S Oil Cooler DIY: Here!

05-15-2009, 11:50 AM	#39 (permalink)
shumby Captin Canuck Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: with your mom Age: 44 Posts: 6,288 Drives: your sister Rep Power: 236	man you guys worry about oil leaks a cheep oil collers f'ing up. I would only use crimped on fittings on my oil lines not press on ones. Take your hose get the length you want then go to a hydralic shop and get them to crimp on some ends for you. Lookes like #6 JIC end maybe #4. __________________ Originally Posted by SAM@GTM Engine detonation is not normal and it should never never happen, and whoever told that need to do something else for living . Sam

05-15-2009, 11:56 AM	#40 (permalink)
Modshack A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Greenville NC Posts: 2,883 Drives: 370Z Sport Rep Power: 976	Aeroquipt socketless fittings are hardly cheap. They are widely used in industrial applications and good to 250psi. It is a simpler alternative to traditional AN10 connectors. Do a google like I did and your thinking may change.. __________________ Steal my car! (SOLD)...Now Porsche Cayman S Oil Cooler DIY: Here!

05-15-2009, 12:19 PM	#41 (permalink)
shumby Captin Canuck Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: with your mom Age: 44 Posts: 6,288 Drives: your sister Rep Power: 236	sorry did not mean to say the fitting were cheep. I work on an offshore oilrig and deal with hydrolic fitting all the time. Mind you I deal with 3500 PSI Working pressure. You are right the fitting are good to 200+psi. I just have found that crimped fitting are always better and give you less to worry about. The commet I made about being cheep was not directed at the fitting themselves but at people saying not to buy a chhep ol cooler, which this is not. But then being happy with socketless connectors when crimped on ends are better if not a bit of overkill though. Word of advice check those JIC fitting everytime you change your oil as they do like to slowly back off from vibration. But for the love of god dont over torque them or you will be asking for a leek. __________________ Originally Posted by SAM@GTM Engine detonation is not normal and it should never never happen, and whoever told that need to do something else for living . Sam

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05-06-2009, 03:07 PM	#32 (permalink)
spearfish25 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Naples, FL Posts: 4,117 Drives: to work Rep Power: 1856	Wonder if there is a way to plumb a line along the oil pan for better heat exchange with the water cooling system.

05-16-2009, 05:49 AM	#45 (permalink)
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