Loss of power / Idle shake
 

Had a weird thing happen to me the other day when I was driving home from work. About 2 minutes from my house I started to notice loss of power, like the car wouldn't go above 2k RPM as easy as it normally would. And then when I pulled into my driveway and put the car in park the car started to shake really bad and sounded like it wanted to stall. I shut the car off and didn't drive it the rest of the day. The next day I went and filled it up with some new gas and went on a 4 hour round trip and didn't have any issues. Was it just a case of bad gas? I filled the car up approximately a week before this issue happened. The oil temps were around 185 so it wasn't in limp mode or anything. Just wondering if this has happened to anyone else.

Either bad gas or a problem with an ignition coil are the usual culprits. You didn't wash down the engine bay or anything recently?

No codes thrown when it was running poorly? Was it a damp day? Could be gas, condensation in the tank, moisture in the plug wires, etc.

I have had the idle shake (kind of a shutter) briefly on start up twice. Both times the code for Random Cylinder Misfire was thrown. Both times on damp, cold days. But then again, you probably still have snow up there in Vermont ;-)

Nope, no codes. It was a pretty warm day and my commute home from work is only 15 minutes. I'm hoping it was just bad gas and nothing more serious.

Sux that you can't reproduce it. I hate problems like that because it makes it so much more difficult to diagnose. Ive never had that happen to me.

Two things, when you approached 2k RPM did it suddenly feel kind of "heavy?" And second, at idle was it kind of a rough, random feeling shake? I've had something similar happen to me in the past (different car), got bad gas at a higher altitude, led to the ignition coil frying. When I would try to get higher up in the powerband, it seemed like I was trying to push the RPM's through a wall, and at lights it seemed like I was firing lean or missing a cylinder

If it doesn't happen again probably was bad gas. I wouldn't worry too much. 15 min is a short trip. I'd keep the revs higher like 3k cruising.

I've had bad gas in another car of mine before. Wouldn't even start. Had to drop the hole tank and pour it out. There was bunch of water in it. Told the gas station about got it and got two fillups free. They relized they had a problem from other complaints.

Sorry to interject... but I've always wondered about this. When you say, "codes thrown", what exactly do you guys mean? Do you mean the patterned flashing of the CEL? If so, how do you know what the pattern means just by looking at it? Don't you need a device of some sort to interpret it?

There is no flash pattern on the CEL unless you put the car into that mode, it is normally either CEL on steady for less serious problems or CEL flashing for a more serious issue.

A $50 code reader gives you the "code" for an CEL, better ones also give a code description and can let you clear the code rather than waiting for the computer to clear it automatically (for transient issues).

Thanks for the clarification a bit Chis...

So I guess when Professor Dave was inquiring if a code was thrown, he's assuming that the OP had a code reader?

And it sounds like no matter what, if there IS an issue with the car or what not, it will always go through the CEL. Sorry of my newbiness with this, but I guess I just never had my CEL go off in any car I've owned.

So in the future, it sounds like I should buy a code reader (where to get?) in the event that my CEL comes on for any reason. Correct?

Hey G2Z- own a European car and you will need one frequently. :D

If a CEL isn't thrown then it is possible that a "pending" code is stored (something that if the problem continues will trigger a CEL).

You can get your codes read for free at most auto parts store, they are pretty useless at interpreting them but if you take the print out and then search for details at home you can find what you need.

If you want one of your own you can find the basic models for around $50. Check this page out and scroll down for the feature comparison.
Amazon.com: Actron CP9125 PocketScan Code Reader: Automotive

Just make sure you get one that has CAN support (most do).

If you don't get codes often and only have 1 car I would just use the part store service, did it for years.

G2Z, if you have an Apple or Android-based device, you can use the Kiwi PLX wireless OBDII Scanner. This will allow you to check AND clear CEL codes when they get thrown, as well as a plethora of other useful goodies! Check it out!

Nissan 370Z Forum - Search Results

^ thank you very much guys. Yes, I have the new EVO 3D phone. I just need to get that scanner then and an app ;)

Sorry OP for digressing. I hope you guys figure out the power loss/shake.