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Oil Temp Survey

Originally Posted by Zsteve the kits are not exactly cheap now. unless you do the DIY kit they are about $400+ I don't know about you, but after spending $30K

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Old 03-26-2010, 10:43 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Zsteve View Post
the kits are not exactly cheap now. unless you do the DIY kit they are about $400+
I don't know about you, but after spending $30K on a car spending >500 on an oil cooler seems like a pretty cheap mod. I plan on my car keeping value rather then imploding over that fraction of money. Especially when Exhaust systems are 3-5 times the price(some a lot more)
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Old 03-26-2010, 10:49 AM   #2 (permalink)
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$400.00 - Oil Cooler
$10,000.00 Engine
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Old 03-26-2010, 10:53 AM   #3 (permalink)
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$400.00 - Oil Cooler
$10,000.00 Engine
Exactly
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Old 03-26-2010, 10:57 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I think one of the issues with an oil cooler is that Nissan doesn't like us installing them. While I mod my exhaust and cats, Nissan shouldn't have any issues with something happening to my engine. If I install an oil cooler, I'm not sure of the results.
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Old 03-26-2010, 10:59 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Right, but that brings you back to square one. If you're afraid to put the oil cooler in your car then don't drive it until it overheats. More or less what Nissan has said to its drivers, on the street no cooler, on the track cooler.
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Old 03-26-2010, 11:04 AM   #6 (permalink)
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well I will do the DIY and save some money. $240 for all the parts and I can use the post car care center to put it on. Its on order as we speak, I went with a 12 row cooler as I dont want to have the issue some are having with it not warming up enough in the winter and they have to block some of the cooler, so I went with 12 rows and that should prevent that and still keep my temps down for spirited street use.
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Old 03-26-2010, 02:11 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Honestly I don't think a 12 row is necessary
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Old 03-26-2010, 02:20 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Honestly I don't think a 12 row is necessary
You mean not necessary to go that small? Because 12 is pretty small. The 'regular' size is 19 row.
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Old 03-26-2010, 02:24 PM   #9 (permalink)
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You mean not necessary to go that small? Because 12 is pretty small. The 'regular' size is 19 row.
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Old 03-26-2010, 02:28 PM   #10 (permalink)
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yea I didnt want to go 19 cuz some guys in the winter have to cover part of the cooler so as to let the oil get hot so I figured a little smaller and I wont have to do that and it will still keep the temps down to a respectable level as I will never run on a track other than a 1/4 mile once or twice.
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Old 03-26-2010, 02:32 PM   #11 (permalink)
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No no, no ownage. I think what Zsteve is trying to say is that he wants to go with a smaller than normal cooler to avoid having issues with bringing the oil up to temp in the winter, and Lou is saying it's not necessary.

If I'm reading this right, then I agree with Lou. Zsteve, I was really worried this winter because of how long it'd take my oil to come up to temp. In fact, some mornings it'd never come up to 180 because I was short-tripping. The big worry is hydrolysis, which means water in the oil. That's what happens when your oil fails to run at a high enough temperature. Water in the oil can cause internal corrosion, etc. Well, I was running Redline, and I recently did an oil change and sent it off for UOA. The UOA came back reporting 0.0% water. So I think you can run a normal-sized cooler and not have to worry about hydrolysis -- as long as you're using a good quality synthetic like Redline. If you're using a conventional oil, then the risk of hydrolysis due to low oil temp is probably significantly higher.
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Old 03-26-2010, 02:35 PM   #12 (permalink)
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No no, no ownage. I think what Zsteve is trying to say is that he wants to go with a smaller than normal cooler to avoid having issues with bringing the oil up to temp in the winter, and Lou is saying it's not necessary.

If I'm reading this right, then I agree with Lou. Zsteve, I was really worried this winter because of how long it'd take my oil to come up to temp. In fact, some mornings it'd never come up to 180 because I was short-tripping. The big worry is hydrolysis, which means water in the oil. That's what happens when your oil fails to run at a high enough temperature. Water in the oil can cause internal corrosion, etc. Well, I was running Redline, and I recently did an oil change and sent it off for UOA. The UOA came back reporting 0.0% water. So I think you can run a normal-sized cooler and not have to worry about hydrolysis -- as long as you're using a good quality synthetic like Redline. If you're using a conventional oil, then the risk of hydrolysis due to low oil temp is probably significantly higher.
But the smaller one should still be good enough to keep the temps down right?
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Old 03-27-2010, 06:45 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by semtex View Post
No no, no ownage. I think what Zsteve is trying to say is that he wants to go with a smaller than normal cooler to avoid having issues with bringing the oil up to temp in the winter, and Lou is saying it's not necessary.

If I'm reading this right, then I agree with Lou. Zsteve, I was really worried this winter because of how long it'd take my oil to come up to temp. In fact, some mornings it'd never come up to 180 because I was short-tripping. The big worry is hydrolysis, which means water in the oil. That's what happens when your oil fails to run at a high enough temperature. Water in the oil can cause internal corrosion, etc. Well, I was running Redline, and I recently did an oil change and sent it off for UOA. The UOA came back reporting 0.0% water. So I think you can run a normal-sized cooler and not have to worry about hydrolysis -- as long as you're using a good quality synthetic like Redline. If you're using a conventional oil, then the risk of hydrolysis due to low oil temp is probably significantly higher.
Maybe you need an oil "heater" for the winter season. Read this:

""Some experts estimate that the wear on the rings of an internal combustion engine is as high as 0.001" per 1000 miles of operation when the oil temperature is below 170 degrees F. If the maximum allowable wear is 0.006", how long can you run your engine when the oil temperature is below 170 degrees before you wear it out?" (A 6-to-1 engine-to-wheel reduction ratio, an average running speed of 3000 rpm, and 14-inch wheels 28 inches in diameter are assumed.)"

Anyway, oil temperature is not consistent throughout the engine. I would guess the oil draining/flung back from the underside of the pistons (this engine has piston cooling) is a lot hotter than 280 deg. Also, oil draining back from the surface of the block is no lower than say the temperture of the engine coolant of say 190-200 deg. That said, it's obvious the oil drains back to the base pan where the different temperatures mix to reach a resultant temperature before being pulled into the oil pump. Anyone know the exact location of the oil temp sensor? Maybe it's located in an area where there is hotter oil?
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Old 03-26-2010, 02:33 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Here's a link to my UOA if you're interested. http://www.the370z.com/members/semte...0-uoa-9000.jpg
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Old 03-26-2010, 05:09 PM   #15 (permalink)
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DOH... disregard.. just found this.

DIY: Oil Pan Spacer


What about an oil pan spacer. Wouldn't that help with cooling somewhat? Has anyone installed one yet on their 370z?



2009+ Nissan 370z VQ37VHR JWT Oil Pan Spacer Kit

Last edited by labk888; 03-26-2010 at 05:35 PM.
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