engine break-in contradiction

Armonster

Hey "dad," not to bust your balls or anything, but I would like to point out that you posted in this break-in thread contradicting what you have said in this thread.

Specifically, you:

(1) cited a Wiki article that says "Most modern car engines are broken in at the factory, before assembly. Therefore the old tradition of breaking in a new car doesn't apply anymore. Just drive as you normally would drive and treat the car the way you would treat anything else of value."

and

(2) said that you agreed with In2Deep's break-in method, which included, among other things: "For a performance engine -- run her through some higher rpm's every 75-100 miles, but not to redline. Ever. So, 10-12 run-throughts up through higher rpms within the first 1000 miles."


Your previous posts sound awfully similar to what I described above, and yet you called my posts short sighted without providing any reasoning or even recognizing that other viewpoints are valid. One of the many problems with stating your opinions in a conclusory manner as if they were proven facts. Just sayin'.

Baer383

You want to break in the engine as quick as possible to get the rings to be completely seated.

All the cars I've owned have been driven hard right out of gate I change the oil @ 500 miles and every 5000 miles after that,and haven't had anything but positive results.

Everybody has there opinion about this but the goal is the same the rings & all parts must be seated quickly.

__________________
2013 ZL1

754 rwhp 747 rwtq

MacCool

Yes, I agree. "Statistical significance" doesn't get much play here on the internet. All we need is enough anecdotes to convince us that our pre-conceived notion is correct.

dad

Where do you see the words above 4,000?

__________________

We can do without any article of luxury we have never had; but once obtained, it is not in human nature to surrender it voluntary.

Armonster

That's your response? Aside from the fact that the entire post implies going over 4000 rpm, the point is that you argued to NOT follow the normal break-in procedure.

Regarding the specific rpm value: you're right, "driving as you normally would," without worrying about the "old tradition of breaking in a new car" clearly does not encompass rpms above 4000, notwithstanding the fact that we are talking about a sports car with a 7500 redline.

And it goes without saying that "run[ning] her through some higher rpm's" does not mean above 4000.

Give me a break.


To the OP: I think the point is that nobody knows (even the people who are absolutely sure), so do whatever you are comfortable with.

11Thumper

Because I want to and it's my $ not yours.

I don't really care if you question my methods, to each their own. What's your background in mechanical engineering and metallurgy?

With several new vehicles in my past I've never (knock on wood) had a mechanical breakdown, oil consumption issue, etc. What works for me might not work for you, so do what you want.

11Thumper

Sweet! Hey, if this has worked for you no reason to switch methods.

I'm pretty sure the break-in method isn't critical anymore so all this discussion is a waste.

Bottom line: You're not going to ruin an engine by following the break-in guidlines published in the owners manual.

Armonster

Cool, a well thought-out response! I agree that following the manufacturers method is a solid method. You wont mess anything up. While I don't have concrete evidence to back up other methods (and never will, since that type of evidence is not practical to obtain), I have read enough posts/articles from engine builders to be at least partially convinced of the benefits of a harder break-in. That's why I do a half and half type thing.

It's not my goal to convince other people what to do. I'm just pointing out that there are some experienced engine builders/engineers with detailed explanations of why one way or the other is better. And they don't all agree with each other. The debate does not end at the owner's manual.

Baer383

As said above the motors are some what broken in by the time the car is assembled,but this discussion is not a waste there has been a debate about this for a long time here is a link with very interesting look at this topic(if you are willing to read it)

Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

__________________
2013 ZL1

754 rwhp 747 rwtq

dad

I owe you, a very sincere apology! "I am sorry!"
I over looked one key word in your post-- "avoided"! Which cause me to miss read/mis-understand your post!
"I apologize for my error"!

__________________

We can do without any article of luxury we have never had; but once obtained, it is not in human nature to surrender it voluntary.

KillerBee370

The shift light doesn't indicate "8000" rpm's. The car in stock form doesn't do that many rpm's. I have a tune that allows me to hit 8000 rpm's and I'm not even able to hit that on the track. I've only seen it happen on the dyno with my car.

You drive it however you want my friend. And do us a favor and yourself, don't ask a question that you are looking for a definitive answer to on a forum full of "contradiction". That just makes no sense.

Regarding your first oil change, I always have been a fan of the 1000 miler.

Good luck to you.

FromG2Z

Thumper, your first statement ends it all and summarizes everything. Yes, it's your $, same way it's my $ for my car, and the OP's $ for his car. Like I said, if it works for you, then great. I was just wondering where and how you came about with these methods. That's all. I hope you didn't take this as disrespect to your methods as that was not my intent.

I have an engineering background, but not to the extent that would qualify me to know the validity of EITHER method of break-in, hence my resolve to go with the manufacturer's methods.

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Nismoracer

Break in? I think its bs. They test them at the factory. When test driving do test drivers like the car magazines break it in before they rip on it...no. let it warm up then drive how you want too.

11Thumper

Interesting reading. I don't agree with everything the author said but that's typical. To each his/her own and I can respect that. However, much of what the author recommends is similar to what I do. I didn't see his qualifications on the article but I did gloss over some parts of it since I'm at work so I might have missed it.

I do feel topics like this are a waste, especially when the OP asks a question like this after he's already run the engine hard. What's the point? If you don't have specific intimate knowledge of how an engine actually works (besides the push start button) just follow the owner's manual.

You can ask 1,000,000 engineers the same question and get 1,000,001 answers, TRUST ME.

To me the most important part of the whole process is lubrication and heat management. That's MY opinion and nobody has to agree or follow it because it's highly likely (just ask my lady) that I'm wrong anyway.

11Thumper

No worries, I probably didn't read your post correctly myself and took parts of it wrong. Hard to convey thoughts through a simple forum.

You could have a Ph. D in engineering and still not fully realize the validity of either break-in method. That's the truth with everyone. What's important to realize is that it's not just the rings that need to be broken in. You have the bearings (although this is totally different), camshafts, etc. Engineers are great for drawing things, designing complex parts using CAD, etc. However, I don't think the engineers specifically sat down and developed break-in procedures that are directly related to the specific design, materials and manufacturing processes of the 370Z engine. However, I could be wrong.

I only posted what I do as information. I wasn't giving specific detailed guidlines of what I think anyone else should do.

After all...it's just a complex air pump.