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Originally Posted by FromG2Z I respect your methods... and I assume (hope) that you have concrete evidence/support/proof that your methods have worked. If so, great. If not, then I question
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#1 (permalink) | |
Track Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
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![]() I don't really care if you question my methods, to each their own. What's your background in mechanical engineering and metallurgy? With several new vehicles in my past I've never (knock on wood) had a mechanical breakdown, oil consumption issue, etc. What works for me might not work for you, so do what you want. |
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#2 (permalink) | |
A True Z Fanatic
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I have an engineering background, but not to the extent that would qualify me to know the validity of EITHER method of break-in, hence my resolve to go with the manufacturer's methods.
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2012 5.0 GT Prem, Kona Blue, 6MT, HID, Brembo, 3.73 -- Ordered: 9/20/11, Born on: 10/20/11, Delivered 11/15/11"Marilyn" GT500 mufflers/flaps, MGW shifter, FRPP K springs, BMR panhard bar, Boss coil covers, 3DC spoiler, Llumar Tint (35% and 20%), 3M ClearBra Last edited by FromG2Z; 06-08-2011 at 03:42 PM. |
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#3 (permalink) | |
Track Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
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![]() You could have a Ph. D in engineering and still not fully realize the validity of either break-in method. That's the truth with everyone. What's important to realize is that it's not just the rings that need to be broken in. You have the bearings (although this is totally different), camshafts, etc. Engineers are great for drawing things, designing complex parts using CAD, etc. However, I don't think the engineers specifically sat down and developed break-in procedures that are directly related to the specific design, materials and manufacturing processes of the 370Z engine. However, I could be wrong. I only posted what I do as information. I wasn't giving specific detailed guidlines of what I think anyone else should do. After all...it's just a complex air pump. ![]() |
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