Originally Posted by molamann Isn't Mobil 1 also considered ester oil? It seems regular Mobil 1 does not contain the esters we want, but Mobil 1 Extended Performance may, although
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04-15-2009, 12:16 AM | #16 (permalink) |
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It seems regular Mobil 1 does not contain the esters we want, but Mobil 1 Extended Performance may, although the details are fuzzy. Most oil manufacturers aren't very transparent on these issues, unfortunately.
Also, it's interesting to note that the patent Nissan got on their Ester Oil mostly isn't about the actual esters, it's about suspended metallic nano-particles added to their formula to help properly lubricate the Diamond-Like Coating (DLC) on the VVEL parts. Apparently some in-the-know types think this isn't very innovative anyways (the suspended particle thing), and any good quality synthetic with clingy esters is going to work just as well as their special sauce. I'm mostly going with the Motul 300V because (a) they're one of the only ones that come right out and claim that their base oil is ester (not just some mixed in additive), (b) 300V is their flagship/premium product, and (c) it's a very large and well-respected brand, compared to some of the other boutique oils out there that make claims of being on par with this stuff. Between the 300V and the K&N filter, I'm looking at somewhere around $95 cost per oil change DIY (no labor charges), but it's worth it to me. I want this engine to turn out like my last one (an LS1): 100K miles of hard-*** abusive driving, and not a single internal problem or leak developed, thanks to overzealous maintenance practices. That engine's getting moved to another vehicle soon where I suspect it will continue to have many more thousands of miles without issue. ETA: I should note that LS1 used Mobil One its whole life, so I am a fan of that oil. I just feel safer with an ester-based oil in the VQ37VHR after reading up on all of this stuff. Last edited by wstar; 04-15-2009 at 12:19 AM. |
04-15-2009, 01:13 AM | #17 (permalink) |
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Call me crazy or dumb, but with all of the money we waste on frivolous things an extra $50 a year for the recommended oil is worth it to me. I had my first oil change today and the dealer charged me $10 a quart for the ester.
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04-15-2009, 01:50 AM | #18 (permalink) |
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Oil arguments will go on until there is no more oil. I've following them for decades now, and probably the best answer I've read consistently is to use a good quality motor oil and change it often, along with the oil filter. Regarding any upper-end sounds, if you are hearing those noises after the engine has warmed-up then the upper-end is simply not receiving the proper lubrication as the oil circulation is in play. Having to use clinging additives to prevent these is a design flaw. You'd be better off simply adding a preoiler.
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04-15-2009, 03:06 AM | #19 (permalink) | |
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We're up to SM now for better or worse. All along the way, all kinds of additives have been added to better protect all kinds of engines, some of which are necessary for modern engines. Good quality API "SF" oil from a quality manufacturer (if you happen to have some stashed from years ago) should not be used in a 2009 car from any manufacturer and it comes down to necessary additives for newer engine technologies. So if Nissan comes out with some new engine tech and says "hey this requires better oil than what a lot of mfgs are asking for (and a lot of what you'll find on the shelf) today", I don't see that as a big problem, they're just running a little ahead of the curve. |
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04-15-2009, 12:15 PM | #20 (permalink) | ||
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04-15-2009, 01:12 PM | #21 (permalink) | ||
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04-15-2009, 02:23 PM | #22 (permalink) | |
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For your reference, I had a baseline oil analysis done on the original oil @1000mi.
My Oil Analysis @1000mi Quote:
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04-15-2009, 02:34 PM | #23 (permalink) | |
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Isn't the oil used on the GT-R from the factory Mobil1?
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04-15-2009, 03:20 PM | #24 (permalink) | ||
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But they still reference it as recommended in the Service Manual, and the warranty is a lot shorter than I plan on keeping this engine running. There's a lot of question marks in there, and I wish we had straight answers, but we're not really going to get them, ever. I'd rather waste a few bucks and err on the side of caution. Quote:
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04-15-2009, 04:58 PM | #25 (permalink) |
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Because you don't want to switch over to synthetic too early. Stick with conventional oil until around 5000 miles to ensure that all the seals have seated in properly, then switch over to a synthetic. That's the only reason I went out of my way to get the Nissan Ester oil. Did my first oil change at 1800 miles with that stuff. Then at 5000 I'm switching over to Motul 300V.
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04-15-2009, 05:06 PM | #26 (permalink) |
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I though I would chime in to this thread. I just came from the Nissan dealer. I had my first oil change done. I was taking to the service manager and he mentioned that the Ester is "Recommended" but not "Necessary" for the 370Z hence it's a bit expansive option (to some). I still went with "Ester" for this time, since he gave me the option (FREE oil change, why not!). Not sure what route (regular vs synthetic vs Nissan Ester) I will go in the future.
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04-15-2009, 05:10 PM | #27 (permalink) | |
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04-15-2009, 05:27 PM | #29 (permalink) | |
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While it is true that there is no mention of Nissan Ester Oil on page 9-5 of the Owner's Manual, I just want to point out that this is on page 9-2 of the Owners Manual: So while I agree with you that owners are not expected to purchase a Service Manual, one doesn't actually have to go to the Service Manual to find a reference to this oil. But in any case, it is indeed just a recommendation, not a requirement, so I also agree with you that any oil that meets or exceeds the stated API rating on page 9-5 should suffice. - Semtex <- Contrarian feather ruffler.
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04-15-2009, 05:29 PM | #30 (permalink) |
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Contrarians' are among my favorite people, and friends...life, and problem solving, would be so incredibility boring and screwed-up, without them!
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