Nissan Ester Oil

davidyan

It only voids your warranty if you mess up the oil change and as a result caused some damage to your engine.

Valentino

So is Nissan Ester Oil considered a Non Synthetic , semi Synthetic, or a Full Synthetic oil?

Sorry if the answer is concluded in some of the posts or in an attached link, but i don't understand most of it, and i got confused and lost.

davidyan

The nissan ester is not Synthetic. Its probably the only non-synthetics with Ester in it. Many have concluded that they are better off with a good synthetic like Redline which also has Esters. Also, there has been no valve ticking noise with RL or other high quality synthetics.

VCuomo

IIRC, the Nissan oil is a synthetic blend (i.e., part synthetic and part dino) - like Castrol Syntec Blend.

FricFrac

I don't mean to be a doubting Thomas but do we have any links that backs this up? So far I've heard its based on a synthetic blend and others say its a dino oil with Esters added. No links to the manufactures specs or any lab tests done on the oil so either way its hearsay until someone gives us some evidence either way.

I've read about people who have had ticking on the G37 that was resolved with the TSB regarding the ticking sound that uses both a flash and the Ester oil as the fix. Do we have any links to people who have fixed their ticking with Redline, etc?

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'09 370Z - '93 300ZX Vert - '83 280ZX - '83 280ZXT -'81 280ZXT stroker - '72 240Z - Stillen CBE, HFC, G3, Grounding Kit, Sways // Swift Spring // H&R 15mm // 5% Tint // Clear Bra //

Blown32

I see everyone is still beating this oil subject to death that is absolutely not a problem at all!
Can only make some of the people happy some of the time but can't make all of the people happy all of the time.Quit worrying!Just put a good quality of oil of YOUR choice in and enjoy the car.
Oil is like opinions and you know how that goes.We all have one!

VCuomo

Ummmm...this "continuation" was just someone asking if anyone knows what kind of oil Nissan uses at the factory... not a big deal.

Zless@arizona

Blown32: Your response is purely wrong and based on no empirical data. I can supply you with a non-detergent 30-weight oil...put that in your engine for 15,000 miles with no filter change and let me know how it goes. Do you know anything about the engine in the 370Z? What can you tell me about the valve actuation? Manufacturers test engines for many thousands of miles, some one million miles, on the same oil. They have clean-room environments, and repeatable test variables when they take oil samples. You, certainly, do not know what I am talking about! Unless you have "white paper" data, stay out. Opinion and consensus is best left to Al Gore and Global Warming.

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The only U.S.A.-available Mobil1 oil that is BMW LL01 is 0W-40...most of M1's engine oil is hydrocracked/GIII junk.

wstar

The issue of what is or isn't "synthetic oil" is complicated if you dig too deep The manufacturers seem to be happy with the very lax definitions of the term, because it gives them a lot of room to do marketing. Given the different things "synthetic" can mean, and the fact that Nissan Ester is almost certainly a mix of both synthetic and non-synthetic ingredients, there's no 100% clear, hard answer to your question.

The original problem in the G37 was initially fixed by switching to ester, and then later a TSB came out that involved reflashing the ECU (presumably to change something about the VVEL's parameters), which supposedly cleared up the ticking regardless of the oil type used. We have newer ECUs that undoubtedly incorporate that software fix, and our service manuals recommend but do not require Nissan Ester oil (and most Nissan dealerships seem to have never heard of it unless the customer makes them research it).

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Zless@arizona

FricFrac: Congrats that you do not buy into the B.S. on this thread! Research the info yourself, using the comments for pathways to the truth. The manufacturer's published data is the only true information upon which you can base a decision.

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The only U.S.A.-available Mobil1 oil that is BMW LL01 is 0W-40...most of M1's engine oil is hydrocracked/GIII junk.

370Zsteve

God this topic is beaten to death.

From bobtheoilguy.com:

There is an interesting article by Mike Kojima that goes
into great detail about the Nissan oil. The price is about the same as Redline. Here are a couple of quotes:

"Nissan's special oil and their newly developed hydrogen free DLC coating on cam followers reduces the amount of friction produced by the valve train by a huge amount. This can make a considerable difference in fuel economy, power output and perhaps even heat generation.

What is Nissan's special oil? The oil was developed to complement Nissan's Hydrogen free DLC coating used on the cam followers in the QR25DE engine, the VQ35HR and the VQ37VHR engines. DLC stands for diamond like coating, which is an amorphous layer of carbon crystals with hard smooth properties much like diamond. Most of valve train friction is created by the interface between the cam follower and the cam lobe. DLC is very slippery stuff and Nissan uses it to reduce valvetrain friction to improve fuel economy, reduce emission and increase power.

Nissan, in their search for improving oils frictional properties, figured out a way to substitute ultra hard nano particles for the normal chemical friction modifiers adding some interesting molecular twists. Again due to the convoluted nature of Nissan’s white papers and patents, its hard to guess exactly what the nano particles are but they are definitely an ultra hard industrial abrasive or bearing type ceramic and probably at least in part, nano particles of industrial diamond

Nissans super oil is around 0.5% nano particles by weight. The particles are probably around 10 nanometers in diameter, really very small! A certain percentage of the nano particles have to be carbon based, preferably single crystal synthetic diamond. The carbon content helps make the nano particles attracted to the low hydrogen DLC coating. Instead of making a slippery metallic film on bare metal parts like traditional friction modifiers, the nano particles act like atomic level miniature ball bearings, preventing metal to metal contact and reducing friction to previously unheard of levels. These nano particles are ashless if they find there way into the engine, making the oil low deposit forming for lower emissions. The Nissan super oil does most of its friction reduction in the valvetrain but it still helps in other parts of the engine.

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Valentino

^ Thanks.

FricFrac

... 'cept for with a synthetic oil you want the first number as low as possible - its really only the second one that matters and even at that the flow characteristics when the vechicle is up to temp are very close to each other (flow is one of the most important aspects of your oil for lubrication). Synthetic also holds up better to heat and thermal cycling, esp with car's like ours that run hot.

I wonder about the filters on our cars. I could put four or five of the 370Z filters in my 240Z filter.... I think that was a big aid in helping engines last....

__________________
'09 370Z - '93 300ZX Vert - '83 280ZX - '83 280ZXT -'81 280ZXT stroker - '72 240Z - Stillen CBE, HFC, G3, Grounding Kit, Sways // Swift Spring // H&R 15mm // 5% Tint // Clear Bra //

homeslice

It never ceases to amaze me that conventional oils are even legal. There's no benefit at all to using them except during break-in. After that, a person should NEVER use them again. Ever person I've known to put in Amsoil has seen some kind of MPG improvement, which negates the cost of their oil.

I have tried just about every synthetic oil on the shelf. Amsoil has given me the most gains and has cost me the least amount of money to use, plus the stuff has all kinds of ASTM testing proving that their oil is better than Mobil 1, Red Line, Royal Purple, Lucas and everything else popular that other people seem to want to bother with.

After I have figured out the gains in MPG, Amsoil has been free ever since I switched over to it. The gas I save far exceeds the cost of the oil which makes it worth it.

If another oil was better, I'd use it. So far nothing I've seen or tried is proven to be any better. I've known many friends or co-workers over the years to have blown engines while using Royal Purple, Red Line and Mobil 1. I have never seen one single person blow an engine while using Amsoil.

If I had the time, I'd become a dealer for Amsoil, but I don't have the experience of making web sites, etc. to do so.

FricFrac

LOL - this is pretty much the reason I haven't used Amsoil. The "followers" remind me of Amway salesmen. Based on your logic I can put Amsoil in my engine and run 30 lbs of boost on stock internals because you've never seen an engine blow up with Amsoil. Anecdotal stories are not much to go on. Most people have figured out change your oil regularly, keep it topped up and use a synthetic. Other than that you are arguing infinte details that just don't matter. I have no idea how people can say their mileage increased/decreased with any certainty unless the conditions are strictly controlled which is not possible in normal driving conditions. (Elevation, air density, moisture, presure, throttle input, road conditions, etc, etc, etc - there are too many variables and the results are not repeatable which means they are unreliable).

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'09 370Z - '93 300ZX Vert - '83 280ZX - '83 280ZXT -'81 280ZXT stroker - '72 240Z - Stillen CBE, HFC, G3, Grounding Kit, Sways // Swift Spring // H&R 15mm // 5% Tint // Clear Bra //