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Originally Posted by C6Z06dude Don't feel bad about your friends talking smack on your auto, let the car prove itself in the track. I am done with manual cars, I
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#1 (permalink) | |
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oh and for the other guy if your getting a big jolt going from 2nd to 1st your prolly shifting at too high of a speed for that gear. It's the same thing in a manual car, you generally don't wanna go back down from 2nd to 1st unless your rolling under 10 mph or stopped. Any car is gonna react the same to you in that case. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Hey guys I have a question.. I noticed a small jolt when I am in manual mode and slows down to a standstill around 2nd and 1st gear. I mean I won't downshift the car because in manual mode if you slow down it will just downshift to your speed. but I feel the car when it shifts to 2nd and then 1st. does you rcar do that?
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#3 (permalink) | |
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(For those that don't own one and might not understand the rest of this - the 7AT in M-mode isn't completely manual. It downshifts for you as you decelerate, but it does so at very low rpms, much lower than a human would usually downshift at) This probably has to do with timing compromises to avoid surprising the driver in M-mode (which it still does, but they're trying). The "surprise" part that they're trying to avoid, but which can still happen sometimes, is when the car downshifts on its own a split second before you request a downshift. Like if I'm coming into a curve in 3rd, and I think "hmmm I want to be in 2nd", but a split second before I click the paddle, the car downshifts into 2nd on its own, then interprets my paddle input as a request for 1st gear. That can be really confusing. Don't forget that while in a turn, the indicator for the current gear is often obscured by the steering wheel too. Coming down to a near-stop at a stoplight that then turns green before full-stop can be annoying in the M-mode too if you let the revs drop to the point that M-mode downshifts for you. Ends up being a lot of confusion between you and the car about what gear you want to take off in at that point. The bottom line is that from a driver's perspective while focusing on all the other things you're doing while driving, the gear selection in M-mode at low engine rpms while decelerating is unpredictable, and therefore any further shifter input is a guessing game. The best way to handle this is quite simple: don't use M-mode for low-rpm driving. If you plan to let the revs down that far anyways, just put it back in D and save yourself some work and confusion. M-mode is for when you're *really* driving, in which case you'll be keeping the revs in the 2k+ region (at least ![]() What I'd love to see, if someone like UpRev can pull it off, would be an ECU mod that doesn't allow the M-mode to downshift for you, avoiding the confusion. Last edited by wstar; 04-06-2009 at 05:35 AM. |
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#4 (permalink) | |
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#5 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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Well, they haven't released anything at all yet for the 370Z, and I'm much more interested in engine tuning than playing with the 7AT, so I'm not about to go accidentally suggest something that might delay the release of the tuning software even more. Hopefully they'll get it out the door soon, then we can start asking for random small features like that.
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#6 (permalink) |
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I get the 2-1 clunky downshift too. Forewarning...it gets firmer as time goes on. At almost 10k miles I have learned not to drive casually in M mode, because that downshift could make you chip a tooth.
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When was the last time you did 230MPH in something with 4 seats? |
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#7 (permalink) | |
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And I was starting to feel bad for having 2400 on mine so far... |
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#10 (permalink) |
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^^I like to think that I can shift a manual very quickly. The auto shifts faster than even my best shifts (albeit not by very much) and does so with flawless consistency.
And yeah 10K miles. I drive a lot, and my commute is almost 30 miles each way. I'm trying to move closer to work. Hopefully that will cut my miles by a 2/3rds.
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When was the last time you did 230MPH in something with 4 seats? Last edited by JoeyD; 04-06-2009 at 03:00 PM. |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Hmm someone edited what I replied to earlier, my response doesn't even make sense now
![]() As far as shifting speed goes, I think it's really good for an auto with paddle shifters. On a straight line, pedal to the floor - I think an experienced 6MT driver can shift faster, because those are the easiest/fastest shifts to make and there's nothing else going on. But for curvy stuff where one would be shifting "carefully" and watching car balance, etc, I think the 7AT will hold its own against a 6MT driver just fine. |
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#12 (permalink) |
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I came from an Audi S5 Sportback...I find the pedal shifters on the 370Z really "stiff"...I need to use a lot more force to flick them and I find it hard to downshift 2-3 gears quickly when I need to...I bought this car used, about 3 years old. U reckon they need some lubricating?
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#13 (permalink) |
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Hard to say since the force to click is kind of subjective, so probably nobody knows if theirs feels quite like yours even after your description. It shouldn't be hard at all to rapidly double- or triple- click the paddle shifter with your middle finger (assuming a straight steering wheel, hands at 9/3 -ish, and reasonable adult hand strength).
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#14 (permalink) | |
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I understand what you mean. It is indeed difficult to describe. But if its like what you mentioned about just using the middle finger, then I think mine should be considerable stiffer. I will need quite a bit of effort just flicking it once if I'm to use only the middle finger....it feels really "sticky"...flicking it a few times quickly will require at least 2 fingers |
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