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-   -   Paddle Shift (http://www.the370z.com/nissan-370z-general-discussions/3153-paddle-shift.html)

wstar 04-06-2009 05:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joeyz10 (Post 52520)
Hey guys I have a question.. I noticed a small jolt when I am in manual mode and slows down to a standstill around 2nd and 1st gear. I mean I won't downshift the car because in manual mode if you slow down it will just downshift to your speed. but I feel the car when it shifts to 2nd and then 1st. does you rcar do that?

It's a little annoying, but all of our cars do that. You'll notice if you pay close attention that even in "D", the car downshifts as it comes to a stop. However, in "D" it downshifts smoothly and you don't really feel it. In "M" mode the timing is different and has more jerk.

(For those that don't own one and might not understand the rest of this - the 7AT in M-mode isn't completely manual. It downshifts for you as you decelerate, but it does so at very low rpms, much lower than a human would usually downshift at)

This probably has to do with timing compromises to avoid surprising the driver in M-mode (which it still does, but they're trying). The "surprise" part that they're trying to avoid, but which can still happen sometimes, is when the car downshifts on its own a split second before you request a downshift. Like if I'm coming into a curve in 3rd, and I think "hmmm I want to be in 2nd", but a split second before I click the paddle, the car downshifts into 2nd on its own, then interprets my paddle input as a request for 1st gear. That can be really confusing. Don't forget that while in a turn, the indicator for the current gear is often obscured by the steering wheel too.

Coming down to a near-stop at a stoplight that then turns green before full-stop can be annoying in the M-mode too if you let the revs drop to the point that M-mode downshifts for you. Ends up being a lot of confusion between you and the car about what gear you want to take off in at that point.

The bottom line is that from a driver's perspective while focusing on all the other things you're doing while driving, the gear selection in M-mode at low engine rpms while decelerating is unpredictable, and therefore any further shifter input is a guessing game. The best way to handle this is quite simple: don't use M-mode for low-rpm driving. If you plan to let the revs down that far anyways, just put it back in D and save yourself some work and confusion. M-mode is for when you're *really* driving, in which case you'll be keeping the revs in the 2k+ region (at least :)), and the car won't interfere or downshift on its own.

What I'd love to see, if someone like UpRev can pull it off, would be an ECU mod that doesn't allow the M-mode to downshift for you, avoiding the confusion.

wstar 04-06-2009 05:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZCarGo (Post 51154)
No matter which way you cut it, the paddle shifters are nowhere near what a manual will feel like. It's difficult to paddle down into a curve, especially if you want to drop from 6th or 7th to 3rd or 2nd and ease off the clutch and apply gas as you are moving through the curve. It's really difficult to get the down shift to the right gear when you are worried about paying attention to the curve and can't look at the damn display. Sometimes I depress the paddle three times and it only drops two gears, sometimes more...WTF??

Since the transmission is always engaged, it revs up to the appropriate level, but it's definately not the same as a manual when you have so much more control through turns.

Some of this is a matter of adapting how and when you use the M-mode. If you need to drop 3 gears that fast, you were at low rpms to begin with. Start downshifting earlier and stay in the power band ;) I find that when driving aggressively and keeping the revs up, shifting through corners is very natural for me with the 7AT. If you're in 6 or 7 coming into a tight corner, you may as well just have left it in "D" :)

Another interesting thing about technique with flipping between D and M is initial gear selection. If you've been cruising at any reasonable highway-ish speed, "D" will be in 7th gear at the time. However, if you flip the lever over to "M" at that point, it immediately downshifts to 5 before giving you control (on the assumption you're taking over to downshift into a corner I guess). In situations where you don't want that, simply click the upshift paddle first before flipping the shift knob to M, and you'll stay in 7 through the transition. In general, it's easiest to make the D-to-M transition by first using the paddles in D (which "temporarily" puts it in M-mode) and then flipping the shifter to M, as it avoids surprise gear changes.

arcticreaver 04-06-2009 12:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wstar (Post 52562)
Some of this is a matter of adapting how and when you use the M-mode. If you need to drop 3 gears that fast, you were at low rpms to begin with. Start downshifting earlier and stay in the power band ;) I find that when driving aggressively and keeping the revs up, shifting through corners is very natural for me with the 7AT. If you're in 6 or 7 coming into a tight corner, you may as well just have left it in "D" :)

Another interesting thing about technique with flipping between D and M is initial gear selection. If you've been cruising at any reasonable highway-ish speed, "D" will be in 7th gear at the time. However, if you flip the lever over to "M" at that point, it immediately downshifts to 5 before giving you control (on the assumption you're taking over to downshift into a corner I guess). In situations where you don't want that, simply click the upshift paddle first before flipping the shift knob to M, and you'll stay in 7 through the transition. In general, it's easiest to make the D-to-M transition by first using the paddles in D (which "temporarily" puts it in M-mode) and then flipping the shifter to M, as it avoids surprise gear changes.

actually that's what i'm doing, just upshifting and not really trying to downshift. so when i need to down shift i just slap it back to D. but i don't do this a lot.

joeyz10 04-06-2009 12:33 PM

Hey Wstar that all makes sense and thanks for your input. Appreciate it. Nice to know that it is not only my car that is doing that jolt thing. I always drive stick so this is something new to me but I will get used to it just like you guys are. I am around 1400 miles now and wlays driving hard......

JoeyD 04-06-2009 12:45 PM

I get the 2-1 clunky downshift too. Forewarning...it gets firmer as time goes on. At almost 10k miles I have learned not to drive casually in M mode, because that downshift could make you chip a tooth.

wstar 04-06-2009 12:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JoeyD (Post 52639)
I get the 2-1 clunky downshift too. Forewarning...it gets firmer as time goes on. At almost 10k miles I have learned not to drive casually in M mode, because that downshift could make you chip a tooth.

Almost 10k miles???

And I was starting to feel bad for having 2400 on mine so far...

tvfreakazoid 04-06-2009 02:29 PM

How are the paddle shifting? Is it pretty fast?
Quote:

Originally Posted by wstar (Post 52641)
Almost 10k miles???

And I was starting to feel bad for having 2400 on mine so far...


wstar 04-06-2009 02:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tvfreakazoid (Post 52671)
How are the paddle shifting? Is it pretty fast?

If you're referring to the overall topic of this thread (paddle shifters, and other related 7AT topics), then yes, it doesn't apply to manual cars.

JoeyD 04-06-2009 02:57 PM

^^I like to think that I can shift a manual very quickly. The auto shifts faster than even my best shifts (albeit not by very much) and does so with flawless consistency.

And yeah 10K miles. I drive a lot, and my commute is almost 30 miles each way. I'm trying to move closer to work. Hopefully that will cut my miles by a 2/3rds.

wstar 04-06-2009 04:45 PM

Hmm someone edited what I replied to earlier, my response doesn't even make sense now :p

As far as shifting speed goes, I think it's really good for an auto with paddle shifters. On a straight line, pedal to the floor - I think an experienced 6MT driver can shift faster, because those are the easiest/fastest shifts to make and there's nothing else going on. But for curvy stuff where one would be shifting "carefully" and watching car balance, etc, I think the 7AT will hold its own against a 6MT driver just fine.

hey32g 04-06-2009 07:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wstar (Post 52561)
It's a little annoying, but all of our cars do that. You'll notice if you pay close attention that even in "D", the car downshifts as it comes to a stop. However, in "D" it downshifts smoothly and you don't really feel it. In "M" mode the timing is different and has more jerk.

(For those that don't own one and might not understand the rest of this - the 7AT in M-mode isn't completely manual. It downshifts for you as you decelerate, but it does so at very low rpms, much lower than a human would usually downshift at)

This probably has to do with timing compromises to avoid surprising the driver in M-mode (which it still does, but they're trying). The "surprise" part that they're trying to avoid, but which can still happen sometimes, is when the car downshifts on its own a split second before you request a downshift. Like if I'm coming into a curve in 3rd, and I think "hmmm I want to be in 2nd", but a split second before I click the paddle, the car downshifts into 2nd on its own, then interprets my paddle input as a request for 1st gear. That can be really confusing. Don't forget that while in a turn, the indicator for the current gear is often obscured by the steering wheel too.

Coming down to a near-stop at a stoplight that then turns green before full-stop can be annoying in the M-mode too if you let the revs drop to the point that M-mode downshifts for you. Ends up being a lot of confusion between you and the car about what gear you want to take off in at that point.

The bottom line is that from a driver's perspective while focusing on all the other things you're doing while driving, the gear selection in M-mode at low engine rpms while decelerating is unpredictable, and therefore any further shifter input is a guessing game. The best way to handle this is quite simple: don't use M-mode for low-rpm driving. If you plan to let the revs down that far anyways, just put it back in D and save yourself some work and confusion. M-mode is for when you're *really* driving, in which case you'll be keeping the revs in the 2k+ region (at least :)), and the car won't interfere or downshift on its own.

What I'd love to see, if someone like UpRev can pull it off, would be an ECU mod that doesn't allow the M-mode to downshift for you, avoiding the confusion.

wstar, have you contacted them. That would be a great mod. I would, but since I don't even have a car yet....

wstar 04-06-2009 08:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hey32g (Post 52761)
wstar, have you contacted them. That would be a great mod. I would, but since I don't even have a car yet....

Well, they haven't released anything at all yet for the 370Z, and I'm much more interested in engine tuning than playing with the 7AT, so I'm not about to go accidentally suggest something that might delay the release of the tuning software even more. Hopefully they'll get it out the door soon, then we can start asking for random small features like that.

blumango 03-26-2013 06:59 AM

I came from an Audi S5 Sportback...I find the pedal shifters on the 370Z really "stiff"...I need to use a lot more force to flick them and I find it hard to downshift 2-3 gears quickly when I need to...I bought this car used, about 3 years old. U reckon they need some lubricating?

wstar 03-26-2013 07:25 AM

Hard to say since the force to click is kind of subjective, so probably nobody knows if theirs feels quite like yours even after your description. It shouldn't be hard at all to rapidly double- or triple- click the paddle shifter with your middle finger (assuming a straight steering wheel, hands at 9/3 -ish, and reasonable adult hand strength).

Zythaxus 03-26-2013 07:25 AM

The dead hath arisen


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