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370z hard to drive?

Originally Posted by shadoquad Is it just me, or is the pedal position awkward for heel-toe as well? I tend to fat foot it more often than not... the gas

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Old 06-21-2012, 05:23 PM   #181 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by shadoquad View Post
Is it just me, or is the pedal position awkward for heel-toe as well?
I tend to fat foot it more often than not... the gas pedal is definitely set back further from the brake pedal than any car I can remember driving more than once. Even when you're braking incredibly hard with the brake pedal mashed in, the pedal is still pretty far back. My knee ends up hitting steering wheel and/or column without some serious shift of my a$$ in the seat

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Originally Posted by Shamu View Post
I dont have any issue at all?
I wouldn't know. Do you?
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Old 06-21-2012, 06:21 PM   #182 (permalink)
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I tend to fat foot it more often than not... the gas pedal is definitely set back further from the brake pedal than any car I can remember driving more than once. Even when you're braking incredibly hard with the brake pedal mashed in, the pedal is still pretty far back.
Yes!
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Old 06-21-2012, 07:56 PM   #183 (permalink)
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Hummmmm werd....I've yet to stall my Z.
I havent stalled mine either..never.. not to brag..
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Old 06-22-2012, 02:41 AM   #184 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shadoquad View Post
Is it just me, or is the pedal position awkward for heel-toe as well?
First time trying to manually heel-and-toe will frustrate the hell out of you because it did for me...lol. I kept practicing until my foot became natural and my foot just does it automatically now. So it seems hard because of the pedal position is straight up, long, and you have to hit it up there to do it smoothly, but as everybody says, practice makes it perfect. However, mine is still not perfect though, but getting there almost!
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Old 06-22-2012, 10:44 AM   #185 (permalink)
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While I didn't stall driving it off the lot, I do remember a few things that were strange about the clutch pedal / pedal orientation after first purchasing the car. Every time I would shift, I would accidentally still have my foot on the gas slightly when engaging the clutch. This would cause the engine to rev, like I was trying to blip the throttle to downshift, except this would happen when I was shifting up. Thinking about it now, this probably does have much to do with the orientation of the pedals / and strange clutch release point.

I've never owned a car worthy of the track, at least to me, so I've never really driven in a "Race" environment. So I guess for me, I just adjusted to the car and really haven't had any issues with driving it since the adjustment. I'm sure my size 14's don't hurt though, when it comes to reaching the awkwardly distanced brake, and gas pedals at the same time.
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Old 06-23-2012, 12:02 AM   #186 (permalink)
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So after owning my Z for 5 days now, the clutch pedal has been the one thing that has been bugging the hell out of me. After searching the internet for the past couple days, I've found some information on how to adjust the engagement point, but nothing that made me feel confident in doing it. I saw B&W_Evader's post from a couple days ago that he had adjusted the engagement point, so I sent him a PM. His response is super simple, and doesn't need any pictures to figure it out.

B&W_Evader:
"Stick your nose under the dash and draw your attention up the pedal linkage. You will see a bar that goes into the floorboard. This is the bar that goes to the clutch master cylinder. You will see a clevis connecting it to the pedal and a lock nut that keeps the rod from turning. I just loosened the nut and screwed the rod in the whole way. You may not need to go that far but I had only about a turn of adjustment. I used a needle nose pliers on the nurled portion of the rod to turn it in. The posts I read said you need to watch that you don't take any of the switch positions out of place but I didn't have to do anything on mine."

In addition to the needle nose pliers, you will need a 12mm open ended wrench to loosen the jam nut.

Once I got under there and figured out how to work in the tight space, the mod took all of 3 minutes. From when I went out to the garage to when I was starting the engine to test drive it took about 5.

Huge difference, and now the clutch feels more "normal" to me (based off of the last 11 cars I've owned with manual transmissions) I took it around the block and didn't have any grinding issues or anything weird like that.

Just hoping this post will help some of you who are searching as to how to do this mod and haven't had any luck.
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Old 06-26-2012, 11:02 AM   #187 (permalink)
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As far as stalling it: It's the exhaust restriction. I stalled mine a couple of times with the factory exhaust. After putting on Fast Intentions exhaust I didn't have issues with stalling it in first. The manual Z is work. Sometimes you have to drive it like you don't give a D#$% to make it move. Just do it.
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Old 06-26-2012, 02:43 PM   #188 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by RC24 View Post
So after owning my Z for 5 days now, the clutch pedal has been the one thing that has been bugging the hell out of me. After searching the internet for the past couple days, I've found some information on how to adjust the engagement point, but nothing that made me feel confident in doing it. I saw B&W_Evader's post from a couple days ago that he had adjusted the engagement point, so I sent him a PM. His response is super simple, and doesn't need any pictures to figure it out.

B&W_Evader:
"Stick your nose under the dash and draw your attention up the pedal linkage. You will see a bar that goes into the floorboard. This is the bar that goes to the clutch master cylinder. You will see a clevis connecting it to the pedal and a lock nut that keeps the rod from turning. I just loosened the nut and screwed the rod in the whole way. You may not need to go that far but I had only about a turn of adjustment. I used a needle nose pliers on the nurled portion of the rod to turn it in. The posts I read said you need to watch that you don't take any of the switch positions out of place but I didn't have to do anything on mine."

In addition to the needle nose pliers, you will need a 12mm open ended wrench to loosen the jam nut.

Once I got under there and figured out how to work in the tight space, the mod took all of 3 minutes. From when I went out to the garage to when I was starting the engine to test drive it took about 5.

Huge difference, and now the clutch feels more "normal" to me (based off of the last 11 cars I've owned with manual transmissions) I took it around the block and didn't have any grinding issues or anything weird like that.

Just hoping this post will help some of you who are searching as to how to do this mod and haven't had any luck.
Pictures?
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Old 06-26-2012, 02:47 PM   #189 (permalink)
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Pictures?
here you go.

this is wat i used.

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Old 06-26-2012, 02:56 PM   #190 (permalink)
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Ya got me!
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Old 06-26-2012, 03:17 PM   #191 (permalink)
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Ya got me!


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Old 06-26-2012, 03:44 PM   #192 (permalink)
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here you go.

this is wat i used.

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Old 06-26-2012, 05:01 PM   #193 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by ALTN8NRG View Post
As far as stalling it: It's the exhaust restriction. I stalled mine a couple of times with the factory exhaust. After putting on Fast Intentions exhaust I didn't have issues with stalling it in first. The manual Z is work. Sometimes you have to drive it like you don't give a D#$% to make it move. Just do it.


Oh wait. I'm sorry. I didn't realize you were joking. That's pretty funny.
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Old 06-26-2012, 07:18 PM   #194 (permalink)
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I'm still not sure if that post was a joke or not, so I totally avoided it.
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Old 06-26-2012, 08:17 PM   #195 (permalink)
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I'm still not sure if that post was a joke or not, so I totally avoided it.
Lol!
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