Originally Posted by ykz just did this on my car. Installing relay provisions for my remote start i ordered. I used two relays as there are actually two switches on
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11-08-2010, 08:11 AM | #16 (permalink) | |
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How much did the proximity key module end up costing you? Is it a regular fob that you removed the battery from or something else? Did you do anything for neutral detection?
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11-09-2010, 08:13 PM | #17 (permalink) |
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The bypass module cost $40. Its the type that you remove the battery from the fob and it powers the fob up through its own wiring. I have done anything for the neutral switch yet....still trying to think up something safe/creative.
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11-09-2010, 09:13 PM | #18 (permalink) |
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In the transmission section of the manual it mentions a park/neutral switch connector for the 6MT for vehicles with and without S-mode so that might be something you can tap into. See page TM-44 for the exploded view (item 6).
In the BCM section of the manual it is referred to as the "SFT PN/N SW". It appears to connect to pin 140 and is at 12V (battery voltage) when in neutral and 0V when in gear. See BCS-68.
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11-10-2010, 02:43 PM | #19 (permalink) |
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Thats great. Just might work but i gotta check my car first and see if its actually there. Unfortunately my car does not have S-mode. The service manual says the switch is there s-mode or not, but the BCM section says pin 140 is only used if you have an A/T or an M/T with S-mode and nothing on M/T non S-mode. Even if its not, its the same transmission case nearest i can tell and the neutral switch and plunger only come out to $20. Not sure how i missed this but thanks for pointing me in that direction! I naturally assumed there would be no neutral switch.
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11-10-2010, 03:54 PM | #20 (permalink) |
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The transmission manual indicates the neutral switch is there for both with and without S-mode but the BCM manual indicates it is only present if you have S-mode. Either one of these 2 manuals is wrong or there is a wire going nowhere. Hope you can figure out a solution.
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11-11-2010, 11:14 AM | #22 (permalink) | |
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11-11-2010, 11:47 AM | #23 (permalink) | |
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11-11-2010, 08:01 PM | #24 (permalink) | |
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11-12-2010, 08:42 AM | #26 (permalink) |
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11-12-2010, 09:06 AM | #27 (permalink) |
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After thinking about bypassing the clutch pedal, I've come to realize that it would be absurd to bypass it. Bypassing the clutch would mean that the driver can start the car by a push of the start/stop button. But, that would mean that it would be impossible to go into ACC mode and ON mode. So, in summary, DO NOT bypass the clutch in your 370z.
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11-13-2010, 05:34 PM | #28 (permalink) | |
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Yet i think you might have missed the part where i said i was installing a remote start on my 6MT. That being said i am not "bypassing" the clutch switches(you cant without getting codes nonstop) the remote start will send out a signal to a pair of relays to "simulate" the clutch being pressed, and only for the duration of the start cycle. Once the car is up and running the relays go back to normal and all functions as per normal. interfacing with the push button, interlock switch, pedal position switch, as well as neutral switch takes a series of 5 relays. all non functioning when the remote start is not entering the start sequence. You can still use ACC and ON mode in my car. I may post my relay wiring diagram at a later date once i get everything finished up. cheers |
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11-15-2010, 05:04 AM | #29 (permalink) |
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I read in a paper column that modern cars you dont' have to "warm" them up because they are fuel injected. Not sure what exactly that means but that's what i've read.
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11-15-2010, 08:09 AM | #30 (permalink) |
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The engine doesn't need to be warmed up before normal driving but it sure helps when your trying to get a sheet of ice off the windshield. I have remote start in all my Winter vehicles.
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