Better With Synchro-Rev Off?

scope22

I agree 100%, i also think that this car learns how you drive and adjusts, when you turn on VDC after a while it seems like it didn't make any difference then over time its starting to suck, then you turn it back on and its all good again...at least it seems that way to me, especially iwth 1st gear

juld0zer

sorry to jumpstart this thread again but ever since i got my Z, the SRM doesnt feel anywhere as near as accurate as in the brand new demo cars i drove in the lead up to buyin mine second hand.

If any of you are keen for a little diy tinkering, let me know and ill give more details so we can collect some data here.
My thoughts are:
- Auto transmissions rely on input and output speed sensors to calculate a smooth shift
- Input sensor in our transmission would be the crank angle sensor
- Output speed sensor in our transmission is the one on the left side of the tail end
- If one of these sensors is not sending the right signal in a car with auto trans, sloppy shifts occur.
- My finger has been pointing at the output speed sensor for a while but cost and lack of availability here has put me off buying one and swapping it out.
- There is no SRM diagnostic and no SRM specific DTC so even if this sensor were to fail, all you'd get is S-mode error displayed on the cluster, afaik anyway. If any Nissan gurus have other info, that would be awesome. Maybe Consult has a menu for SRM?
- This is why i rule out my crank sensor because it has never spat a code for it, and the engine runs fine

Skyscraper

I love the SRM and always keep it on.

Simply great for downshifting through a corner.

However, when coming to a stop I don't bother to downshift anymore, I just keep it in gear and disengage the clutch when the RPM's approach 1000. I find that with the SRM you just don't get the compression braking to make it worth putting the extra use on your clutch. I'd rather change brake pads than a clutch kit.

njobe89

that's why i never keep it on. mines always off

__________________
2 plus 2 times 2 = ? ... hint, it's not 8

Stillen CBE, Stillen Gen 3, TP's, Uprev tuned - 324whp/264tq

Driftomodachi

I don't have SRM but I love driving my 6mt nonetheless. I will try and add it in the future tho it sounds fun

__________________
2010 40th Anniversary ll GT-R start button ll GT-R map lenses ll Plastidipped fangs and rear valence ll OEM foglight & switch ll Motordyne E370 Cat back ll Motordyne ART Pipes ll Takeda aFe Attack CAI ll Sprint Booster ll Z1 34 row Setrab oil cooler ll Z1 Motorsports M-Spec Shift Knob

njobe89

i don't think you can add it or if you can it will cost an arm and leg.

__________________
2 plus 2 times 2 = ? ... hint, it's not 8

Stillen CBE, Stillen Gen 3, TP's, Uprev tuned - 324whp/264tq

kenchan

i use 3rd when coasting to a stop. considering ive NEVER had to change a clutch on a car that i bought new (or used for that matter) i dont think there is any noticeable premature wear.

Driftomodachi

Not if you can source parts for cheap You need the sports package cluster, SRM on/off switch on the shifter bezel, SRM ecu, transmission sensors and harness I would think

__________________
2010 40th Anniversary ll GT-R start button ll GT-R map lenses ll Plastidipped fangs and rear valence ll OEM foglight & switch ll Motordyne E370 Cat back ll Motordyne ART Pipes ll Takeda aFe Attack CAI ll Sprint Booster ll Z1 34 row Setrab oil cooler ll Z1 Motorsports M-Spec Shift Knob

kenchan

cheaper just to get a throttle volt multiplier to get the throttle latency fixed (or a re-flash for that matter) and blip manually.

i use srm but my other cars have no such feature and i just heel toe.

juld0zer

you'd need the whole transmission or at least the tail end of an SRM one. i have a feeling one of the shafts may be slightly different so even if you drilled a hole for the output shaft speed sensor, it may have nothing to give the correct pulse

juld0zer

lack of engine braking is largely due to VVEL IMO. i might be wrong

Driftomodachi

Nissan pre-wired and pre-rigged a lot of things to save costs. For example, the rear foglight is pre-wired. I'm waiting for someone else to do the conversion. In the meantime I'm here lurking and gathering information

__________________
2010 40th Anniversary ll GT-R start button ll GT-R map lenses ll Plastidipped fangs and rear valence ll OEM foglight & switch ll Motordyne E370 Cat back ll Motordyne ART Pipes ll Takeda aFe Attack CAI ll Sprint Booster ll Z1 34 row Setrab oil cooler ll Z1 Motorsports M-Spec Shift Knob

Skyscraper

I think it has more to do with the output shaft of the tranny engaging the flywheel (via the trans shafts and clutch once it's engaged after a downshift) and forcing the engine to rotate faster to match the speed appropriate with the vehicle (or rather, increasing RPM and decreasing vehicle speed until they meet in equilibrium). Since the SRM has already increased the engine speed to the right spot electronically the output shaft does feel the resistance of the engine from the increasing RPM and therefore the vehicle does not slow down any faster than if it had been in neutral the whole time.

Hope that makes sense, almost confused myself a bit there.

mishuko

I like to shift to second so I can hear the revving... it makes me happy



=( now i'm getting paranoid before my trip in july that I plan on putting around 4-5k on towards the east coast.


you and 90st are probably seasoned drivers (i'm sure others are aswell) but for me i'm like... noob to manual so I've probably put my fair share of wear n tear.... guess i'll start looking at a quote for the HDCSC + Master + labour.... me no so good mechanically

njobe89

well that makes sense, after you go
you should fine. there are a couple of people on here that did 5,000-10,000 mile trips with their Z's with no problems

__________________
2 plus 2 times 2 = ? ... hint, it's not 8

Stillen CBE, Stillen Gen 3, TP's, Uprev tuned - 324whp/264tq