Anyone use Earl's Oil Coolers?

spearfish25 · 07-19-2010, 04:11 PM

I went with the economical Tru-Cool option, but it seems like a really low quality product. It works, but it's flimsy with a minimal frame/mounting flange and the NPT threads are an unnecessary PITA. One of the NPT fittings is weeping ever so slightly, and I'm considering swapping the cooler for something of higher quality. The three I've looked at are Earl's, Mocal, and Setrab 25 row coolers. All of them offer AN fittings directly on the cooler which would be very nice. The Setrab runs $260, Mocal $215, and Earl's $160-199. I feel like I've been burned once going the 'cheap' route (the Tru-cool costs $40). Has anyone used the Earl's cooler and been happy with the build quality? Otherwise I'm going to get the Mocal I think.

Modshack · 07-19-2010, 04:51 PM

Huh? The Tru-cool is inexpensive yes, cheap and flimsy? I'm gonna have to disagree. It is more than substantial enough for this, or any application. I think you need to chalk your troubles up to installer difficulties, not faults with the parts. Lots of guys have put this exact cooler in. I've used one for 8 years on 2 different cars...

If you have a seep it's because you didn't seal things correctly. I had a seep on my first pass too, which is why I recommended the High Temp sealant I did in the DIY.

spearfish25 · 07-19-2010, 05:14 PM

Easy Steve, I'm not knocking the Tru-Cool as a viable option. It's cooling the oil well, and if there wasn't a bit of weeping at the one fitting, I'd be 100% satisfied. The price is certainly right at $40. However, the 'one time' crank down of the NPT fittings to get them pointing in the preferred direction screwed me. After speaking with the company, it looks like a bad batch of Permatex thread sealant is the probably culprit. I emailed Permatex and they believe it could be past its shelf-life. So I have a slight weep from one NPT fitting on the cooler. Having had to crank the fitting to align it properly was, as you noted, a one-timer. I can't just unscrew it and try again. The other cooler options (Earls, Mocal, Setrab) are available with -AN fittings directly on the cooler. This should make it easy to reinstall the fittings if ever necessary. Also, they have more robust mounting brackets.

While the Tru-Cool certainly stands up to the cooling job, I'm amazed you don't find it flimsy. Seriously, one finger is all it takes to push on the mounted cooler and bend its mounting flange.

Zsteve · 07-19-2010, 05:41 PM

I didnt know he make oil coolers too.

Modshack · 07-19-2010, 07:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spearfish25

Having had to crank the fitting to align it properly was, as you noted, a one-timer. I can't just unscrew it and try again.

While the Tru-Cool certainly stands up to the cooling job, I'm amazed you don't find it flimsy. Seriously, one finger is all it takes to push on the mounted cooler and bend its mounting flange.

Sure you can. I think you misunderstood my "one time" statement. Once you get it in position you don't want to move it again and break the seal. Since your seal is not sealing, There's no reason you can't unscrew it, clean and reapply the correct sealant as long as you haven't ripped the threads out of the cooler from over torquing......I re-did mine with no issues, and recently took apart one put together 8 years ago (to my design) because we had to reinstall it on a different side of the car and re-orient the fittings 90 degrees.. No leaks, no problems.

And NO, I don't find it flimsy..

cossie1600 · 07-19-2010, 11:12 PM

I have a Setrab, high quality and everything. Still, the price is really steep, especially when you compare to the Mocal or Earl's.

Cjanik · 07-19-2010, 11:51 PM

I agree with modshack, i have the tru-cool as well and I questioned why they made the brackets/tabs so sturdy because it was rock solid. the fins on this thing are stronger than my stock radiator.

are we talking about the same cooler?

although in terms of cooling efficiency, i'll admit the setrab or mocal would probably run a bit cooler.

spearfish25 · 07-20-2010, 08:27 AM

I'll make a little video of what I'm talking about when I swap it for a Setrab.

RCZ · 07-20-2010, 10:53 AM

I run something similar to those too, works great so far. About to put a fan on it.

Modshack · 07-20-2010, 11:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RCZ

I run something similar to those too, works great so far. About to put a fan on it.

FYI, Not sure you'll get much benefit from that. I had this set-up on my Audi and couldn't really measure any significant changes in Oil temps. Oil temp gauge barely moved. The fans are really noisy (Spal 6.5") and seem to block enough of the natural flow when off to offer no net benefit.

kenchan · 07-20-2010, 11:27 AM

maybe get a C02/nitrous blaster ring over the fins...

Modshack · 07-20-2010, 11:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kenchan

maybe get a C02/nitrous blaster ring over the fins...

Or a Water Mister set-up.....

When it comes to cooling I've tried most everything...

kenchan · 07-20-2010, 11:32 AM

nice! that's more economical.

spearfish25 · 07-20-2010, 11:47 AM

I suppose the fan could help if you were overheating while sitting in traffic. No?

How often do you have to fill the water mister reservoir?

kenchan · 07-20-2010, 11:54 AM

think of it this way... you are standing outside in 95F and you have a fan blowing at you. it doesn't really cool you off that much unless you're sweating or there is a mist...

air alone does not cool very well by itself especially if you're just blowing warm/hot air at it at that low capacity.

07-19-2010, 04:11 PM	#1 (permalink)
spearfish25 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Naples, FL Posts: 4,117 Drives: to work Rep Power: 1856	Anyone use Earl's Oil Coolers? I went with the economical Tru-Cool option, but it seems like a really low quality product. It works, but it's flimsy with a minimal frame/mounting flange and the NPT threads are an unnecessary PITA. One of the NPT fittings is weeping ever so slightly, and I'm considering swapping the cooler for something of higher quality. The three I've looked at are Earl's, Mocal, and Setrab 25 row coolers. All of them offer AN fittings directly on the cooler which would be very nice. The Setrab runs $260, Mocal $215, and Earl's $160-199. I feel like I've been burned once going the 'cheap' route (the Tru-cool costs $40). Has anyone used the Earl's cooler and been happy with the build quality? Otherwise I'm going to get the Mocal I think. __________________ 2013 Cadillac V-Wagon, RIP Z

07-19-2010, 04:51 PM	#2 (permalink)
Modshack A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Greenville NC Posts: 2,883 Drives: 370Z Sport Rep Power: 976	Huh? The Tru-cool is inexpensive yes, cheap and flimsy? I'm gonna have to disagree. It is more than substantial enough for this, or any application. I think you need to chalk your troubles up to installer difficulties, not faults with the parts. Lots of guys have put this exact cooler in. I've used one for 8 years on 2 different cars... If you have a seep it's because you didn't seal things correctly. I had a seep on my first pass too, which is why I recommended the High Temp sealant I did in the DIY. __________________ Steal my car! (SOLD)...Now Porsche Cayman S Oil Cooler DIY: Here! Last edited by Modshack; 07-19-2010 at 05:15 PM.

07-19-2010, 05:14 PM	#3 (permalink)
spearfish25 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Naples, FL Posts: 4,117 Drives: to work Rep Power: 1856	Easy Steve, I'm not knocking the Tru-Cool as a viable option. It's cooling the oil well, and if there wasn't a bit of weeping at the one fitting, I'd be 100% satisfied. The price is certainly right at $40. However, the 'one time' crank down of the NPT fittings to get them pointing in the preferred direction screwed me. After speaking with the company, it looks like a bad batch of Permatex thread sealant is the probably culprit. I emailed Permatex and they believe it could be past its shelf-life. So I have a slight weep from one NPT fitting on the cooler. Having had to crank the fitting to align it properly was, as you noted, a one-timer. I can't just unscrew it and try again. The other cooler options (Earls, Mocal, Setrab) are available with -AN fittings directly on the cooler. This should make it easy to reinstall the fittings if ever necessary. Also, they have more robust mounting brackets. While the Tru-Cool certainly stands up to the cooling job, I'm amazed you don't find it flimsy. Seriously, one finger is all it takes to push on the mounted cooler and bend its mounting flange. __________________ 2013 Cadillac V-Wagon, RIP Z

07-19-2010, 05:41 PM	#4 (permalink)
Zsteve A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: TX Posts: 3,298 Drives: the 2 balled club Rep Power: 22	I didnt know he make oil coolers too. __________________ 2010 LS3 C6 Silver coupe corvette

07-19-2010, 11:51 PM	#7 (permalink)
Cjanik Track Member Join Date: May 2009 Location: Las Vegas Posts: 578 Drives: N/A Rep Power: 17	I agree with modshack, i have the tru-cool as well and I questioned why they made the brackets/tabs so sturdy because it was rock solid. the fins on this thing are stronger than my stock radiator. are we talking about the same cooler? although in terms of cooling efficiency, i'll admit the setrab or mocal would probably run a bit cooler. Last edited by Cjanik; 07-19-2010 at 11:54 PM.

07-19-2010, 11:12 PM	#6 (permalink)
cossie1600 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: californee way Posts: 5,380 Drives: 370, Leaf Rep Power: 30	I have a Setrab, high quality and everything. Still, the price is really steep, especially when you compare to the Mocal or Earl's.

07-20-2010, 08:27 AM	#8 (permalink)
spearfish25 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Naples, FL Posts: 4,117 Drives: to work Rep Power: 1856	I'll make a little video of what I'm talking about when I swap it for a Setrab. __________________ 2013 Cadillac V-Wagon, RIP Z

07-20-2010, 10:53 AM	#9 (permalink)
RCZ A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Miami Posts: 6,403 Drives: '09 370Z Rep Power: 1119	I run something similar to those too, works great so far. About to put a fan on it.

07-20-2010, 11:27 AM	#11 (permalink)
kenchan A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: N/A Posts: 76,801 Drives: N/A Rep Power: 141521	maybe get a C02/nitrous blaster ring over the fins...

07-20-2010, 11:32 AM	#13 (permalink)
kenchan A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: N/A Posts: 76,801 Drives: N/A Rep Power: 141521	nice! that's more economical.

07-20-2010, 11:47 AM	#14 (permalink)
spearfish25 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Naples, FL Posts: 4,117 Drives: to work Rep Power: 1856	I suppose the fan could help if you were overheating while sitting in traffic. No? How often do you have to fill the water mister reservoir? __________________ 2013 Cadillac V-Wagon, RIP Z

07-20-2010, 11:54 AM	#15 (permalink)
kenchan A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: N/A Posts: 76,801 Drives: N/A Rep Power: 141521	think of it this way... you are standing outside in 95F and you have a fan blowing at you. it doesn't really cool you off that much unless you're sweating or there is a mist... air alone does not cool very well by itself especially if you're just blowing warm/hot air at it at that low capacity.

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