Too soon to modify? thoughts/advice.

HATED1 · 07-06-2010, 02:57 PM

thanks for the info guys.

spearfish25 · 07-06-2010, 03:08 PM

How's the Kobalt? I suppose I could swing $50 more for the Dewalt if the Kobalt is only so-so.

m4a1mustang · 07-06-2010, 03:31 PM

It's pretty nice. Heavy and big, though. I think the Dewalt is a little smaller and might have a lower peak torque rating. I'm happy with the Kobalt...

HATED1 · 07-06-2010, 04:13 PM

So im deciding to go with the 20mm ichiba version 2 all around, question though, these will fit in the front correct? and willl these require new lug nuts to mount the wheels back on? stupid questions i know, but just want to make sure, thanks again.

m4a1mustang · 07-06-2010, 04:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HATED1

So im deciding to go with the 20mm ichiba version 2 all around, question though, these will fit in the front correct? and willl these require new lug nuts to mount the wheels back on? stupid questions i know, but just want to make sure, thanks again.

I don't know anything about Kics, but if I were you I would just go with H&R DRS (stud replacement) spacers all around. Top quality and the stud replacement is very easy. Just borrow an impact gun if you don't have one.

kenchan · 07-06-2010, 04:55 PM

i run Kics on my cars (including my Z). you will need to order the hubcentric rings separately. these are hubcentric wheels so you will want the rings for sure. otherwise too much burden on the studs and could fail.

i run just the rear 15mm's. front is stock.

another choice is ichiba. they look similar to the kics and includes the rings. if you use 20mm i think you can get away with not replacing the studs on the fronts.

HATED1 · 07-06-2010, 08:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by m4a1mustang

I don't know anything about Kics, but if I were you I would just go with H&R DRS (stud replacement) spacers all around. Top quality and the stud replacement is very easy. Just borrow an impact gun if you don't have one.

Hey m4a1mustang thanks for your advice, after further research and mixed reviews it looks like i will go this route.

thanks guys fort the heads up on things!

LunaZ · 07-06-2010, 10:26 PM

IIRC, a post on vibration issues experienced with the Ichiba spacers said it had to do with its two-piece design and slightly short hubcentric ring.
This was the main reason I decided to go H&R.
I was able to install my new studs with simple hand tools.

m4a1mustang · 07-06-2010, 10:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LunaZ

IIRC, a post on vibration issues experienced with the Ichiba spacers said it had to do with its two-piece design and slightly short hubcentric ring.
This was the main reason I decided to go H&R.
I was able to install my new studs with simple hand tools.

Can you elaborate on how you were able to pull the new studs in all the way? It would be very helpful for everyone without ready access to an impact gun.

LunaZ · 07-07-2010, 07:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by m4a1mustang

Can you elaborate on how you were able to pull the new studs in all the way? It would be very helpful for everyone without ready access to an impact gun.

Doing the rears, the axle has a good bit of friction and doesn't want to spin easily. I guess you could also put the car in gear.
As for the fronts, as you tightened each stud down, fit the box end of a large wrench over one of the existing studs and lever it between another stud to apply force opposite the direction that you're tightening the replacement stud.
Using spacers, washers and an open end lug nut, I found it didn't take a whole lot of torque to pull the stud into place with a 1/2" drive ratchet.

m4a1mustang · 07-07-2010, 09:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LunaZ

Doing the rears, the axle has a good bit of friction and doesn't want to spin easily. I guess you could also put the car in gear.
As for the fronts, as you tightened each stud down, fit the box end of a large wrench over one of the existing studs and lever it between another stud to apply force opposite the direction that you're tightening the replacement stud.
Using spacers, washers and an open end lug nut, I found it didn't take a whole lot of torque to pull the stud into place with a 1/2" drive ratchet.

Sounds good. I know I had to hit the studs a good bit with my impact gun to seat them all the way, so I wasn't sure how difficult it'd be to do them by hand.

sonic370 · 07-07-2010, 08:03 PM

wonder why does the front seem higher than the rear.
it must be the long hood

HATED1 · 07-07-2010, 09:27 PM

so i made my order from Josh at Stillen, so far great customer service and reponse, i will post pics when i get all of the items installed, 15/20 h&R drs, H&R sport springs, Eibach rear camber arms/toe bolts.

wheee! · 07-07-2010, 10:04 PM

Check out the Stillen Blog page for the DIY articles. Both my 15mm front and 20mm rear install instructions are posted there from when I did my own H&R Spacers. Cheers.

H&R TRAK+ DRS 15mm Front Wheel Spacer Install – Nissan 370Z : STILLEN

H&R TRAK+ DRS 20mm Rear Wheel Spacer Install ? Nissan 370Z : STILLEN

PapoZalsa · 07-07-2010, 10:22 PM

I want to lower mine but will have wait until I installed the F.I. I scrap in my drivewy at stock height.

07-06-2010, 02:57 PM	#16 (permalink)
HATED1 Track Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: WA Posts: 504 Drives: 2010-370z-Red-6 SPD Rep Power: 18	thanks for the info guys. Last edited by HATED1; 07-06-2010 at 03:49 PM.

07-06-2010, 03:08 PM	#17 (permalink)
spearfish25 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Naples, FL Posts: 4,117 Drives: to work Rep Power: 1856	How's the Kobalt? I suppose I could swing $50 more for the Dewalt if the Kobalt is only so-so. __________________ 2013 Cadillac V-Wagon, RIP Z

07-06-2010, 03:31 PM	#18 (permalink)
m4a1mustang A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Northern VA Posts: 55,385 Drives: on two wheels Rep Power: 6962	It's pretty nice. Heavy and big, though. I think the Dewalt is a little smaller and might have a lower peak torque rating. I'm happy with the Kobalt... __________________ - Steve Zs & Coffee - Saturdays at 10AM in Fairfax, VA and Columbia, MD (Click the banner!) LIKE us on Facebook!

07-06-2010, 10:26 PM	#23 (permalink)
LunaZ A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Vagabond Posts: 6,704 Drives: Project: a white one Rep Power: 512	IIRC, a post on vibration issues experienced with the Ichiba spacers said it had to do with its two-piece design and slightly short hubcentric ring. This was the main reason I decided to go H&R. I was able to install my new studs with simple hand tools. __________________ 2009 370Z Sport/Touring/Navigation \| see my journal for mods facebook: Be my friend... or not.

07-07-2010, 10:04 PM	#29 (permalink)
wheee! A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Mod Capital of Canada Age: 58 Posts: 7,354 Drives: cars. lots of cars. Rep Power: 40182	Check out the Stillen Blog page for the DIY articles. Both my 15mm front and 20mm rear install instructions are posted there from when I did my own H&R Spacers. Cheers. H&R TRAK+ DRS 15mm Front Wheel Spacer Install – Nissan 370Z : STILLEN H&R TRAK+ DRS 20mm Rear Wheel Spacer Install ? Nissan 370Z : STILLEN __________________ H&R / Stillen / Berk / HKS / Swift / Michelin / UpRev / SPC / Amuse Rep / Seibon / Fringe XVO / TWM / more... My Journal

07-06-2010, 04:13 PM	#19 (permalink)
HATED1 Track Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: WA Posts: 504 Drives: 2010-370z-Red-6 SPD Rep Power: 18	So im deciding to go with the 20mm ichiba version 2 all around, question though, these will fit in the front correct? and willl these require new lug nuts to mount the wheels back on? stupid questions i know, but just want to make sure, thanks again.

07-06-2010, 04:55 PM	#21 (permalink)
kenchan A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: N/A Posts: 76,801 Drives: N/A Rep Power: 141521	i run Kics on my cars (including my Z). you will need to order the hubcentric rings separately. these are hubcentric wheels so you will want the rings for sure. otherwise too much burden on the studs and could fail. i run just the rear 15mm's. front is stock. another choice is ichiba. they look similar to the kics and includes the rings. if you use 20mm i think you can get away with not replacing the studs on the fronts.

07-07-2010, 08:03 PM	#27 (permalink)
sonic370 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2010 Location: Orange Texas Posts: 1,574 Drives: 09 370Z Sports PGK Rep Power: 18	wonder why does the front seem higher than the rear. it must be the long hood

07-07-2010, 09:27 PM	#28 (permalink)
HATED1 Track Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: WA Posts: 504 Drives: 2010-370z-Red-6 SPD Rep Power: 18	so i made my order from Josh at Stillen, so far great customer service and reponse, i will post pics when i get all of the items installed, 15/20 h&R drs, H&R sport springs, Eibach rear camber arms/toe bolts.

07-07-2010, 10:22 PM	#30 (permalink)
PapoZalsa A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Not in Sunny Florida Posts: 6,358 Drives: 16 Nismo w/Tech Pack Rep Power: 4500	I want to lower mine but will have wait until I installed the F.I. I scrap in my drivewy at stock height. __________________ 2009 370Z MB Base w/Sport Package 6MT Modshack's Custom Air Intakes /3M Clear Bra/ Illuminated Kick Plates / F. I CBE w/12" resonators / EVO-R Front Lip / Rear Hatch Wing / Tein S-Tech Springs /Ilegal Tint in the Rep. of VA/4x20mm Z1 Spacers/ Vinyl Roof/Liquid Carbon Designs

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