The Z store's emblems are injected molded plastic, so I'm pretty sure these will be a bit more expensive than those...
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06-18-2010, 08:26 AM | #376 (permalink) |
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The Z store's emblems are injected molded plastic, so I'm pretty sure these will be a bit more expensive than those...
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06-18-2010, 09:31 AM | #377 (permalink) |
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Having said that, the Z STore plastic badges are over priced as well....
I would see these emblemz going for about $200 - $250 a set taking into consideration a volume production run of around 1000 sets. More than that will reduce sales, less would not be cost effective. Leave them as "unfinished" but properly cut, drilled and tapped for installation. Everyone will customize them further. I know I will...
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06-18-2010, 11:18 AM | #378 (permalink) | |
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06-18-2010, 01:27 PM | #380 (permalink) |
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Yep. A more accurate initial sale is probably between 15-25 sets.
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06-18-2010, 01:40 PM | #382 (permalink) | |
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06-18-2010, 01:44 PM | #383 (permalink) |
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Well, let's take a poll! Complete set versus front or rear only. I am sure that we could generate enough interest in at least 100 sets. I will buy one set for sure.
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06-18-2010, 01:44 PM | #384 (permalink) | |
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06-18-2010, 02:02 PM | #385 (permalink) | |
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There would really be no reason I can think of to do both anodizing and powder coating. The benefits of anodizing a part (color, scratch resistance, strengthening, and protection from elements, including sunlight, rain, chemicals, etc) are pretty much rendered useless if a powder coating is applied on top of it. Powder coating will provide all these benefits, with the exception of actually strengthening the aluminum alloy, and you will have more options of colors, and the colors will be more consistent. Since the aluminum will not be in some sort of high abuse area, I actually think PC will be a better option for your particular application. But to answer your question, anodize coatings, no matter how thick are still subject to cracking (known as crazing in the biz) under extreme temperatures because of the coefficient of expansion in aluminum (aluminum oxide is hard and brittle, the base metal is soft and malleable). So I would probably pick one or the other. |
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06-18-2010, 02:27 PM | #386 (permalink) |
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Don't know if it was already mentioned but... The auto tranny can use some cool aftermarket shift knobs... n if u can get your hand on some leather. You can give the auto that manual look as well along with the ebrake. I think that would sell like hot cakes if done right?
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06-18-2010, 05:52 PM | #387 (permalink) | |
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Those emblems haven't gotten great reviews... Still, that's the competition, so I think he's gotta try and and at least match the price if at all possible to move these. $250 a set may be well worth the quality, but that's a bit steep IMO for emblems... I hate to say it, but if they go for that much, I'm probably out
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06-18-2010, 05:53 PM | #388 (permalink) | |
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06-18-2010, 07:33 PM | #389 (permalink) |
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if ur thinking about a shift knob, how about a knob with a cap (like the mercedes one) with a button underneath (their ignition button). Then the owner can rout whatever they want to that button (ignition, nitrous, horn, even audio)
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06-18-2010, 08:25 PM | #390 (permalink) |
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I wouldn't add any Z features to an MT shifter. We run the same thread pattern that a lot of Mazdas run, so if you just produce a generic design you have a broader market for sales.
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