I think the best option is #2. Regardless, people are going to have to paint if they want the emblem to stay like it is. I think it would be
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06-03-2010, 12:20 AM | #91 (permalink) |
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I think the best option is #2. Regardless, people are going to have to paint if they want the emblem to stay like it is. I think it would be easier to paint an already flat surface of the emblem then to have to cut the nubs off and sand them and paint them. Like I said before, you can paint to match, you can go black, or just leave it machined. If you know a good paint shop you could get them painted in bulk in different colors to. That way you can offer them ready to install. Just charge more obviously for painted to match. Also, having it all one piece would make for a better surface area to mount the emblem with 3M double sided tape. This is perfect so far.
Won't be long now and I will be sending my $$$ for a set!
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Last edited by Holliday; 06-03-2010 at 01:09 AM. |
06-03-2010, 12:50 AM | #94 (permalink) |
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Damn those nubs. The first badge (not listed 1,2,or 3 but the badge that doesn't cover the nubs) I'm almost willing to shave my bumper it looks so good. (j/k that's not the road I want to go down) I cant believe this badge doesn't come stock on the car. Damn those nubs. But alas we must work around Nissan's decision.
I remember seeing a photo on this forum of a PW with the front badge removed. I seem to remember that the nubs stick up much higher on the front bumper than the rear . Thus in design #2 the thickness of the blacked out area will have to accommodate. I could be wrong, but I think its worth finding a picture so we can know that were dealing with. I've tried searching for it but haven't found it yet maybe one of the members following this thread could be of assistance. I'm not able to access the soldworks files tonight because my home computer edition is only 2005, and since you have a newer version it will not let me view the files, but I will be checking them out the first spare moment I get tomorrow at the shop. As the designs stand right now I'd have to say that I like #2 the best. It looks real good, and it takes care of our nub problem. It's gets away from the burger look a bit, and its got that big fat Z right where every one wants to see it. Machining will be moderately difficult but nothing to worry about. #1 is practical and attractive. It's a clean look and it does remove the word Nissan from the front and rear of the car. However, its just not different enough for my taste personally. It looks a lot better than the stock badge that's for sure, But it think its a bit too subtle to go to all this trouble for. Not that I'd be opposed to making it if people like it, just wouldn't choose it for my car. In my opinion #3 has the most potential. Its sleek lines rival those of the Z it self. I like the shell or dome look to the blackout area. Unfortunately the dome will make this part considerably more time consuming to produce but I'm definitely not ruling it out because of this. I like the oval inside the circle. However if I may critique your design just a bit I think it may be improved by slightly decreasing the diameter of the oval, in effect making the ring thicker and filling out more of the black area. I also like how the side tabs (or all beef patty if you will) are minimized in this design. I wouldn't mind seeing a similar concept applied to badge #2. long post...will continue with discussion of allowed radii for ease of machining |
06-03-2010, 01:11 AM | #95 (permalink) |
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I'll send you the Parasolid format instead, you should be able to open it even in 2005, it'll just be converted into a Part file in 2005.....check your e-mail in a minute.
Also, I took your advice and reduced the size of the circle in the middle for the 3rd option...let me know what you think. Last edited by scruffydog; 06-03-2010 at 01:19 AM. |
06-03-2010, 01:11 AM | #96 (permalink) |
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You can paint the filler to match your car or paint it black. It will be easier to do than shaving the bumper. Plus, if all goes well, we might be able to get them color matched in bulk
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06-03-2010, 01:22 AM | #97 (permalink) |
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Right now I'm working on the wheel hub cap emblems....it'll be just like number 2 except better because it's a circle and hopefully there's nothing that restricts me to have to cover or work around. Does anyone know on top of their head if the Emblem on the hub cap is together with the hub cap? or does the emblem come off by itself?
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06-03-2010, 01:54 AM | #99 (permalink) |
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Wheel Hub Cap
Here's what I have for the wheel hub cap emblem...I this one we can do without the background fill-in.
Hey AG, I actually know of a place in SF bay area that could do 3D printing of these parts.....check out www.protocafe.com I use them for prototyping for work...but the way the make these prototype (for fitting purposes of course) it's like 3D printing and it only takes a couple of days or less turn around time to make these models. But if we're making it out of machining, going this path does necessary mean we can machine it. PS> I sent you the file for the Wheel Hub Cap Emblem too...it's a draft Last edited by scruffydog; 06-03-2010 at 02:02 AM. |
06-03-2010, 02:19 AM | #100 (permalink) | |
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Looks good!
Quote:
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06-03-2010, 08:21 AM | #102 (permalink) |
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Dude your sick man. All this stuff looks great!
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06-03-2010, 08:47 AM | #103 (permalink) |
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06-03-2010, 09:02 AM | #104 (permalink) |
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06-03-2010, 09:06 AM | #105 (permalink) |
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whoa, badass.
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