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Question on trade back my auto Z to a manual

there is a tranny on ebay for 1300 i think.... grab that, a pedal assembly, and prob an ecu and do a swap... thats an option too , no ?

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Old 05-14-2010, 06:18 PM   #76 (permalink)
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there is a tranny on ebay for 1300 i think.... grab that, a pedal assembly, and prob an ecu and do a swap... thats an option too , no ?

It can prob be done for well under 7,000
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Old 05-15-2010, 12:59 AM   #77 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckd05 View Post
there is a tranny on ebay for 1300 i think.... grab that, a pedal assembly, and prob an ecu and do a swap... thats an option too , no ?

It can prob be done for well under 7,000


someone told swap is bad for ur car?? is it true?
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Old 05-15-2010, 08:39 PM   #78 (permalink)
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All i will say is this i have owned both and to each his own. the good news
is both the 7at and 6mt are attached to a 370z!!! so i'm not complaining
either way.
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Old 05-19-2010, 01:34 AM   #79 (permalink)
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me on the other hand, I have a 6MT, and I'm looking to trade it for a 7AT...
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Old 05-19-2010, 10:36 AM   #80 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MeetJoeAsian View Post
me on the other hand, I have a 6MT, and I'm looking to trade it for a 7AT...
for even considering such a preposterous idea, do pushups joe.

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Old 05-19-2010, 11:09 AM   #81 (permalink)
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The advantage of the 7at is the ability to have either world, lazy driving or manual mode sport driving. The 6mt is always a stick and sometimes (heavy traffic) that's as far from fun as it gets.

So when you consider the above point and combine that with the stellar stats of the 370's 7at, it's not a tough decision IMO.

But if you still want to do it, for gods sakes sell the car don't trade it, you will get bent over big time. I never trade cars in unless I don't think they will sell. You will have zero problems selling a 370 they are tough to get. You will likely sell it in a few days unless you live in a rural area, and you will get the most money possible for it. A dealer is going to lowball you like crazy on a trade.
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Old 05-19-2010, 03:59 PM   #82 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m4a1mustang View Post
The extra gear over the 6MT generates more downforce, therefore it is faster in the corners as well.
Wow... I did not know that. Need to remove x_x out of my "what I drive" section. lol
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Old 05-19-2010, 04:07 PM   #83 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wishihadnav View Post
well if auto was superior to manual why didnt they offer it in the Nismo model?..i would of bought it to cuz im lazy..haha..
Exactly,because according to nissan tests the manual is faster
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Old 05-19-2010, 04:11 PM   #84 (permalink)
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So... The manual is faster?
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Old 05-19-2010, 04:33 PM   #85 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zZSoCalZz View Post
So... The manual is faster?
The 7AT has more aggressive low-end gearing than the 6MT, which allows it to post strong 1/4 mile numbers. If that metric is your basis for "faster," then maybe not. It's really just a gimmick, IMHO.
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Old 05-19-2010, 04:49 PM   #86 (permalink)
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Just buy a supercharger instead ://
with the money you're about to blow.. might as well.
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Old 05-19-2010, 05:02 PM   #87 (permalink)
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I am so glad I got my 6MT.
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Old 05-19-2010, 05:05 PM   #88 (permalink)
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yeah for the Z i'll have to agree that MT is the way to go...i just avoid traffic..haha
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Old 05-19-2010, 05:18 PM   #89 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billydsz View Post
You will have zero problems selling a 370 they are tough to get. You will likely sell it in a few days unless you live in a rural area, and you will get the most money possible for it. A dealer is going to lowball you like crazy on a trade.
Well that depends on where you are, in most metro area's there are plenty of them for sale on dealers lots and some used one's in ad's. Many of those on dealers lots here in the DFW and HOU area's have been there for quite a while now as well........
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Old 05-19-2010, 05:24 PM   #90 (permalink)
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You are going to get hit with 6k or so. I suggest you to drive the AT for 2 years or so and then trade it in for a new one. U'll probably get hit w/ 8-10k after 2 years. that's only 2-4k on top of what you lose today but you'll be driving a 2012 with no mileage instead of a 2010 (and whatever mileage you put on it) on the day you trade it in.

Make sense?
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