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Zspeed CMAK backordered

Originally Posted by OptionZero with the RZ34 sharing the same transmission and suffering from the same issue, i'm shocked suppliers haven't cranked up their inventory. or maybe its new Z

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Old 10-04-2024, 07:18 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by OptionZero View Post
with the RZ34 sharing the same transmission and suffering from the same issue, i'm shocked suppliers haven't cranked up their inventory. or maybe its new Z owners buying them up realizing they need 'em

I have a Zspeed HD replacement slave, which isn't a full solution like the CMAK, but it's held up for six years, so i didn't see any need to replace
Definitely does not have the same problem. They have an external slave cylinder in the new Zs.
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Old 10-04-2024, 01:50 PM   #17 (permalink)
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they finally changed it?!
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Old 10-18-2024, 11:30 AM   #18 (permalink)
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So the CMAK is in and car is on the ground. I bought the OEM pressure plate, clutch disc and flywheel. First thing I noticed was the pressure required was a little more which I like. It gives you a better feel of what is going down. The only issue is the pedal engages very close to the floor and if I don't focus on pushing the pedal down all the way it'll grind going into first. Just wanted to see if anyone else had experienced this. I talked with George at Zoho/ZSpeed and he feels confident the master cylinder after being drained and bled will not be able to provide enough pressure. I can see this as only getting worse. Dealer is trying to tell me the new clutch needs to be broken in. George also suggested getting an OEM master. George has had experience with this before and feels 99% the master needs to be replaced. I'm embarrassed to say what the dealer charged me to re and re the tranny etc. and would rather not put any more money into it. If I had a hoist I would have done it myself. I'm too old now to be crawling around on my belly like a reptile. The master looks pretty easy to replace.
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Old 10-18-2024, 04:40 PM   #19 (permalink)
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The clutch break-in does not affect your activation point on the pedal. I highly recommend getting that master replaced as it is usually almost mandatory when replacing the slave cylinder or equivalent... to the point where ZSpeed will not warranty the upgraded slave unless the master was replaced at the same time.
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Old 10-18-2024, 04:49 PM   #20 (permalink)
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they finally changed it?!
yep: https://www.z1motorsports.com/clutch...r-p-37349.html
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Old 10-19-2024, 12:37 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by abm89 View Post
The clutch break-in does not affect your activation point on the pedal. I highly recommend getting that master replaced as it is usually almost mandatory when replacing the slave cylinder or equivalent... to the point where ZSpeed will not warranty the upgraded slave unless the master was replaced at the same time.
That makes sense. I guess if you think about it any kind of wear you would get on the disc, pressure plate and flywheel wouldn't be enough to notice any change in the activation point. Thank you!
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Old 10-20-2024, 11:41 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by abm89 View Post
The clutch break-in does not affect your activation point on the pedal. I highly recommend getting that master replaced as it is usually almost mandatory when replacing the slave cylinder or equivalent... to the point where ZSpeed will not warranty the upgraded slave unless the master was replaced at the same time.
I was able to raise the activation point by loosening the jam nut at the clevis pin at the pedal and then adjusting the length of shaft of the master. I only did about one full turn and this raised it maybe 1/2". I'm going to try another turn. A little goes a long way and I believe too much will make the needed 'free play' go away.
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Old 10-20-2024, 01:22 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by dshaw340 View Post
So the CMAK is in and car is on the ground. I bought the OEM pressure plate, clutch disc and flywheel. First thing I noticed was the pressure required was a little more which I like. It gives you a better feel of what is going down. The only issue is the pedal engages very close to the floor and if I don't focus on pushing the pedal down all the way it'll grind going into first. Just wanted to see if anyone else had experienced this. I talked with George at Zoho/ZSpeed and he feels confident the master cylinder after being drained and bled will not be able to provide enough pressure. I can see this as only getting worse. Dealer is trying to tell me the new clutch needs to be broken in. George also suggested getting an OEM master. George has had experience with this before and feels 99% the master needs to be replaced. I'm embarrassed to say what the dealer charged me to re and re the tranny etc. and would rather not put any more money into it. If I had a hoist I would have done it myself. I'm too old now to be crawling around on my belly like a reptile. The master looks pretty easy to replace.
I got mine replaced on 09.18.24 at 41k miles, but only put about 280 miles and still going through the settle-in process.

I also noticed the engagement point is lower (closer to the floor) than what the previous owner put (they put in an ACT clutch).

I do also notice that as the car warms up and driving around, the clutch pedal feels a bit "rougher" compared to when first cold-starting and driving. After driving about 30 minutes, the best I can describe the "rougher" feel is the clutch pedal feels a bit stiffer to push down and almost feels like it's slipping (but it's not and can change gears/drive normally). Do you get this as well?
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Old 10-20-2024, 10:12 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by vtec to vvel View Post
I got mine replaced on 09.18.24 at 41k miles, but only put about 280 miles and still going through the settle-in process.

I also noticed the engagement point is lower (closer to the floor) than what the previous owner put (they put in an ACT clutch).

I do also notice that as the car warms up and driving around, the clutch pedal feels a bit "rougher" compared to when first cold-starting and driving. After driving about 30 minutes, the best I can describe the "rougher" feel is the clutch pedal feels a bit stiffer to push down and almost feels like it's slipping (but it's not and can change gears/drive normally). Do you get this as well?
I can't say I felt any slipping although as recommended I've 'tried' to keep the RPM below 3000 for 500 miles. I'm at about 100 miles now. Before going out today I gave the master cylinder piston rod an extra turn thereby raising the engagement point up a little more. I had no grinding or hard to find gears. I'm still going to replace the master cylinder as has been suggested by a couple different sources that say after draining and bleeding that the old master cylinder is weakened. I'm just guessing here and please try to get more information on this but apparently the 'stack height' of the clutch is important. I had an ACT clutch/pressure plate in my Miata which worked great but this is a different application for sure and so the stack height may be an issue. You mentioned the clutch engagement was close to the floor. Mine was too close and I was able to rectify this by lengthening the rod at the clevis which raised the engagement point. With the different ACT clutch it may not be disengaging completely making it feel like it is slipping but since the damn car has so much torque it may not act like its slipping. If it is slipping you might want to correct this as premature wear of the clutch may occur or you might get hot spots on the pressure plate.
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