Camber adjustment

[Jordis]

I bought my 370 a few summers ago and don’t drive it much, only 10,000 miles since the summer of 2019 but I’ve gone through two sets of rear tires because the previous owner lowered the car almost 2 inches with H&R lowering springs. The camber on the car is about 3° and the inside 4” is to wear bar (tires are 285’s) I want it set back to stock so I don’t keep wearing out $500 tires (That’s $1000 for both here in Canada) What have people done to put camber back to stock once you’ve lowered the car? Do I need camber rods, toe rods and traction rods in order to get everything back to where it should be? Z1 make a package that isn’t too expensive . I’d like to get this done in the next couple weeks.

Cheers,
C.

[SeeThruHead]

assuming the stock arms and eccentric bolts are all in place, camber will go back to normal when the car is raised up.

[Jordis]

I’m not raising it.

[k67p67]

Your premature tire wear is not caused by the ~3 degrees of negative camber. Your rear toe alignment is out of spec and killing your tires. You'll need camber arms and toe bolts if you want to get closer to stock alignment. That is assuming you want to remain lowered. If you wish to return the vehicle to stock ride height, the camber/toe specs will return to normal.

[DaveZ03]

Originally Posted by Jordis

I’m not raising it.

Then you need aftermarket arms: camber, and mid links. Go SPL and be done. If you are not familiar with SPL, long story short, they are the best in the game and will be a solid investment in your suspension alignment.

[k67p67]

Mid links will solve the OP's problem but will cost 30X more than simple toe bolts.

[Jordis]

Originally Posted by k67p67

Your premature tire wear is not caused by the ~3 degrees of negative camber. Your rear toe alignment is out of spec and killing your tires. You'll need camber arms and toe bolts if you want to get closer to stock alignment. That is assuming you want to remain lowered. If you wish to return the vehicle to stock ride height, the camber/toe specs will return to normal.

Thank you.

I want the Camber out anyway so I was hoping to do both at once.

I don’t mind buying camber arms and toe arms if it’s that simple.
I don’t know if the traction arms will also need changing, I’d rather buy all in one shipment since I need to order from the States.

[k67p67]

Traction arms aren't necessary to solve your problem. They are a bit of overkill unless you are dialing-in suspension geometry for the track. Then again, if you have $400 burning a hole in your pocket, go for it. Whatever you decide, SPL is the benchmark.

[OptionZero]

I see an issue with the toe links

The shortcut approach which has its drawbacks is the SPC toe link:
https://www.splparts.com/products/37...toe-bolts.html

This requires cutting and isn't a long term solution since eccentric bolts slip. Also note it's sold by SPL Parts (just the link I used for convenience) but it's made by SPC, a different company.

SPL itself offers two solutions for toe adjustment:
- An adjustable midlink arm with built in spring bucket for both toe AND some height adjustability. This, however, requires the use of 65mm inner diameter springs, and i'm not sure H&R springs are. In some pix that look like progressive springs with a varying diameter, which definitely won't fit
https://www.splparts.com/products/37...mid-links.html

- An adjustable toe link with no bucket for the springs. This is for those with "true" type coi lovers
https://www.splparts.com/products/37...toe-links.html

SPL also has an adjustable camber arm that will work no problem:
https://www.splparts.com/products/37...e-version.html

As well as a traction arm:
https://www.splparts.com/products/37...tion-arms.html

And of course the best front upper adjustable arm in the game:
https://www.splparts.com/products/37...ster-arms.html


The issue is you bought a car with a half-assed lowering solution. If you want to lower your car correctly:

1) Throw away those stupid springs

2) Hit up Fortune Auto for a set of coilovers, specify Swift Springs, 65mm id

3) Grab the SPL arms all around, and the eccentric lockout kit

4) Drop the boxes off at your local trustworthy suspension shop

5) Win

oh and get better wheels

[Jordis]

I’m not investing in it unnecessarily, it doesn’t get driven enough.
I just want the camber out, regardless if tire wear, that’s just an expensive result of whoever lowered it.

The car was cool with camber for my son was 14 when I bought it but he has his own car (An Aristo) with too much camber and now I can go back to old man camber LOL!!

[Jordis]

The Z1 kit is good enough
I may only have the car until winter and it gets stored and I find a FairLady for next summer

Until Oct 31st I don’t want to need to buy new tires.