High Mileage 370z Reliable?

370zNRG

Hi so I’m thinking about buying a 100k+ miles 2011-2013 370z and adding a soho supercharger kit. Just wanted to get some options of what people think about reliability of the 370z once you go above 100k miles.

vtec to vvel

Generally speaking, Japanese engines are typically reliable and only require very basic maintenance.

My '07 Z had close to 100K and was strong with original clutch
My '09 Z had close to 90K when I traded and was strong
My '13 Z has 40K miles, but currently out of commission due to the mc/csc, but the engine is solid.

There are members here with 200k+ miles and still going strong (I believe 1 member even has 300K miles). Just make sure you are following the maintenance schedule. And if going FI, do it right and change out the internals also. Also, if getting manual, swap out the mc/csc (this is a common issue among manual 350Z's/370Z's).

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370zNRG

Ok good info ya appreciate the input. That’s what I’m noticing going through other forum posts a lot of people are mentioning that they are pretty reliable past the 100k mark just wanna get some peoples input. If I do end up deciding to supercharge it I don’t think I’ll build the motor to start probably gonna aim for 500hp then if I go above that build the motor.

vtec to vvel

If you do decide to move forward, just make sure to really inspect the car beyond the Carfax (or have a trusted mechanic look at it), as not everything can make it on there.

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rspray2000

I just supercharged ~12psi at 87k. It’s going great so far. I’m going to give it another year before deciding if I want to go E85 and really push it.

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370zNRG

Nice good info 👍🏻

BORNGEARHEAD

If it's been maintained, I wouldn't hesitate. My cutoff on purchasing is 130k miles...unless it's a great price.

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'20 370Z Sport - '15 Frontier - '04 350Z Roadster - '79 Datsun 620

Tractionless

Go 2013 or you're at higher risk of low oil pressure due to oil galley gaskets leaking. It's an internal leak so you won't know unless you have someone check oil pressure for you as there isn't an onboard gauge.

Other than that all years have the same inherent problems of blown rear end cover mount, broken fuel pump hat, locking steering wheel and a couple other less common nuances. Also go with the sport so you get the bigger brakes and LSD.

For SC plan on $350'ish for an oil cooler upgrade right off the bat and most do at least a 19 row even when NA.

If you can wait, it will be a buyers market very soon as prices are already coming down due to interest rates and the economy.

I bought my 2010 sport/touring with 72k on it in 2016 for $15k with a clean carfax/title.

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Toys Not Tots

cv129

Agree, except that OEM VLSD is quite useless especially on a boosted application.

Oooo, at that mileage, switch out that rear heater hose coupler, prone to crack/shatter. At that miles, adding heat with boost, might as well change out all the radiator hoses, it's about time.

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vtec to vvel

I'm in mortgage lending, and IMO, the real estate market has an influence on trends for the other industries that has buyer-financing involved.

Much like the real estate market, the general consumer market has shifted for sure over the past few months due to rates rising paired with inflation, however, global supply chain is still an issue, meaning it would be unlikely to be a buyer's market in the near future. Even if the supply chain issue some how magically got resolved, the Feds are on an aggressive rate-raising projection (7 rate hikes in 2022, with 4 of them being 75 bps vs the traditional 25 bps), so unless you are a cash-buyer, being qualified for financing will most likely be a challenge (higher rates means you get qualified less of a loan amount, if you qualify). Keep in mind, you also have a Fed Chair, Jerome Powell, that does not understand inflation, admittedly: “We now understand better how little we understand about inflation” - 06/2022.

Regarding the economy, there is no telling what will happen, esp. with what the Feds are doing, but, many economists are projecting that a recession is in place for sometime this year. If a recession occurs (which historically has happened each time the Feds have tried to fight inflation), this is when the Feds generally lower rates to stimulate the economy via quantitative easing, but again, you still have the supply issue to deal with. So while rates could be lowered and you could be qualified for more of a loan amount, the prices would theoretically hold steady to what they are now due to supply/demand.

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vtec to vvel

As per my post earlier, don't expect vehicle prices to come down anytime soon. I typically believe only about 25% of what the media reports, and the article that came out this AM below pertaining to auto sales seems to cover a very few of the basics at least (again, take the media with a grain of salt).

Auto sales are falling due to rising rates and less qualified buyers. Prices generally are not decreasing, which come from supply chain issues, and profits are steady/rising despite higher costs (businesses will never take a hit on their margins and bottom line). Those that qualify for an auto loan will pay more for the vehicle itself AND the money used to finance the vehicle.

Some dealerships may offer incentives, but this is done at a local level. But, I would really research this. If dealerships are cutting pricing at inflated levels, there is a good chance the price is still above what they were pre-COVID times.

https://www.cnn.com/2023/01/12/inves...ing/index.html

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370zNRG

Sorry been away forgot I made this post. I appreciate the response from everyone so my take away is I should aim for a 370z newer than 2013 and stay away from something more than 130k miles. If I go older than 2013 make sure the galley gaskets get replaced before doing the supercharger. I do plan on having a friend of mine who is a mechanic take a look at the car before I buy it, I don’t trust dealership PPIs. The pricing from the research I’ve seen I’m thinking I’m gonna wait till end of the 2nd quarter to buy a car I am doing cash so financing won’t be an issue. Hoping the used car prices continue to fall to normally pre Covid levels.

vtec to vvel

Regardless of the year, it really depends on the actual vehicle and if it was properly maintained.

And if you are a cash buyer, you have alot more leverage and room for negotiations than a financing buyer would: cash is king.

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filip00

As a 2009 sport owner, I'll give you a few words of my own advice as well.

1. Galley gaskets - it's not big deal to have them changed for newer ones, you'll shell out around $700 for labor, the parts are only $50. After you changed the gaskets, you'll have a peace of mind.

2. In addition to changing or NOT changing gaskets - the Z has a "problem", where it likes to heat up oil if you're pushing it. Because of this, a lot of owners install an oil cooler. Oil cooler means additional pathway for oil, namely just behind the bumper, and you've got all these additional fittings. To make sure all is well - you'll want to install an oil pressure gauge. So - even if you don't do galley gaskets - you can monitor internal oil pressure and know if something's wrong.

3. When I got the car, it being a fully loaded sport package, means I got the beautiful 19" Rays, as well as big akebonos. They work great! I also got that LSD.....that viscous shitty LSD. It never works. It never worked. It's absolute **** and whoever tells me otherwise, either doesn't know what he's talking about or doesn't have the cash to upgrade. The LSD is NOT the part because of which you would want the sport package. It's well worth installing an aftermarket mechanical LSD which will transform the car.

4. Other faults are true - steering wheel lock - can be mitigated just by pulling the fuse out, problem solved forever. Fuel pump hat - well, upgrade the fuel pump.

Other than that - I'd tell you to just go for the lowest mileage clean example you can find and enjoy modifying it as you see fit.

370zNRG

I wasn’t formilar with the factory LSD having a problems. I was looking specifically for a sports package model because of the LSD. The bigger brakes are a plus but I can buy a bigger brake package and install it myself and save money if I decide to skip the sports package. I will be driving this car in the winter so I am going to need a LSD. Why is it so bad?