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High Mileage 370z Reliable?

Hi so I’m thinking about buying a 100k+ miles 2011-2013 370z and adding a soho supercharger kit. Just wanted to get some options of what people think about reliability of

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Old 12-28-2022, 06:58 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default High Mileage 370z Reliable?

Hi so I’m thinking about buying a 100k+ miles 2011-2013 370z and adding a soho supercharger kit. Just wanted to get some options of what people think about reliability of the 370z once you go above 100k miles.
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Old 12-28-2022, 07:21 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Hi so I’m thinking about buying a 100k+ miles 2011-2013 370z and adding a soho supercharger kit. Just wanted to get some options of what people think about reliability of the 370z once you go above 100k miles.
Generally speaking, Japanese engines are typically reliable and only require very basic maintenance.

My '07 Z had close to 100K and was strong with original clutch
My '09 Z had close to 90K when I traded and was strong
My '13 Z has 40K miles, but currently out of commission due to the mc/csc, but the engine is solid.

There are members here with 200k+ miles and still going strong (I believe 1 member even has 300K miles). Just make sure you are following the maintenance schedule. And if going FI, do it right and change out the internals also. Also, if getting manual, swap out the mc/csc (this is a common issue among manual 350Z's/370Z's).
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Old 12-28-2022, 07:47 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by vtec to vvel View Post
Generally speaking, Japanese engines are typically reliable and only require very basic maintenance.

My '07 Z had close to 100K and was strong with original clutch
My '09 Z had close to 90K when I traded and was strong
My '13 Z has 40K miles, but currently out of commission due to the mc/csc, but the engine is solid.

There are members here with 200k+ miles and still going strong (I believe 1 member even has 300K miles). Just make sure you are following the maintenance schedule. And if going FI, do it right and change out the internals also. Also, if getting manual, swap out the mc/csc (this is a common issue among manual 350Z's/370Z's).
Ok good info ya appreciate the input. That’s what I’m noticing going through other forum posts a lot of people are mentioning that they are pretty reliable past the 100k mark just wanna get some peoples input. If I do end up deciding to supercharge it I don’t think I’ll build the motor to start probably gonna aim for 500hp then if I go above that build the motor.
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Old 12-28-2022, 08:07 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I just supercharged ~12psi at 87k. It’s going great so far. I’m going to give it another year before deciding if I want to go E85 and really push it.
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Old 12-29-2022, 08:10 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I just supercharged ~12psi at 87k. It’s going great so far. I’m going to give it another year before deciding if I want to go E85 and really push it.
Nice good info 👍🏻
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Old 12-29-2022, 05:26 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Ok good info ya appreciate the input. That’s what I’m noticing going through other forum posts a lot of people are mentioning that they are pretty reliable past the 100k mark just wanna get some peoples input. If I do end up deciding to supercharge it I don’t think I’ll build the motor to start probably gonna aim for 500hp then if I go above that build the motor.
If you do decide to move forward, just make sure to really inspect the car beyond the Carfax (or have a trusted mechanic look at it), as not everything can make it on there.
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Old 12-29-2022, 09:15 PM   #7 (permalink)
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If it's been maintained, I wouldn't hesitate. My cutoff on purchasing is 130k miles...unless it's a great price.
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Old 01-01-2023, 02:15 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Go 2013 or you're at higher risk of low oil pressure due to oil galley gaskets leaking. It's an internal leak so you won't know unless you have someone check oil pressure for you as there isn't an onboard gauge.

Other than that all years have the same inherent problems of blown rear end cover mount, broken fuel pump hat, locking steering wheel and a couple other less common nuances. Also go with the sport so you get the bigger brakes and LSD.

For SC plan on $350'ish for an oil cooler upgrade right off the bat and most do at least a 19 row even when NA.

If you can wait, it will be a buyers market very soon as prices are already coming down due to interest rates and the economy.

I bought my 2010 sport/touring with 72k on it in 2016 for $15k with a clean carfax/title.
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Old 01-01-2023, 02:28 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Go 2013 or you're at higher risk of low oil pressure due to oil galley gaskets leaking. It's an internal leak so you won't know unless you have someone check oil pressure for you as there isn't an onboard gauge.

Other than that all years have the same inherent problems of blown rear end cover mount, broken fuel pump hat, locking steering wheel and a couple other less common nuances. Also go with the sport so you get the bigger brakes and LSD.

For SC plan on $350'ish for an oil cooler upgrade right off the bat and most do at least a 19 row even when NA.

If you can wait, it will be a buyers market very soon as prices are already coming down due to interest rates and the economy.

I bought my 2010 sport/touring with 72k on it in 2016 for $15k with a clean carfax/title.
Agree, except that OEM VLSD is quite useless especially on a boosted application.

Oooo, at that mileage, switch out that rear heater hose coupler, prone to crack/shatter. At that miles, adding heat with boost, might as well change out all the radiator hoses, it's about time.
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Old 01-01-2023, 02:58 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Tractionless View Post
Go 2013 or you're at higher risk of low oil pressure due to oil galley gaskets leaking. It's an internal leak so you won't know unless you have someone check oil pressure for you as there isn't an onboard gauge.

Other than that all years have the same inherent problems of blown rear end cover mount, broken fuel pump hat, locking steering wheel and a couple other less common nuances. Also go with the sport so you get the bigger brakes and LSD.

For SC plan on $350'ish for an oil cooler upgrade right off the bat and most do at least a 19 row even when NA.

If you can wait, it will be a buyers market very soon as prices are already coming down due to interest rates and the economy.

I bought my 2010 sport/touring with 72k on it in 2016 for $15k with a clean carfax/title.

I'm in mortgage lending, and IMO, the real estate market has an influence on trends for the other industries that has buyer-financing involved.

Much like the real estate market, the general consumer market has shifted for sure over the past few months due to rates rising paired with inflation, however, global supply chain is still an issue, meaning it would be unlikely to be a buyer's market in the near future. Even if the supply chain issue some how magically got resolved, the Feds are on an aggressive rate-raising projection (7 rate hikes in 2022, with 4 of them being 75 bps vs the traditional 25 bps), so unless you are a cash-buyer, being qualified for financing will most likely be a challenge (higher rates means you get qualified less of a loan amount, if you qualify). Keep in mind, you also have a Fed Chair, Jerome Powell, that does not understand inflation, admittedly: “We now understand better how little we understand about inflation” - 06/2022.

Regarding the economy, there is no telling what will happen, esp. with what the Feds are doing, but, many economists are projecting that a recession is in place for sometime this year. If a recession occurs (which historically has happened each time the Feds have tried to fight inflation), this is when the Feds generally lower rates to stimulate the economy via quantitative easing, but again, you still have the supply issue to deal with. So while rates could be lowered and you could be qualified for more of a loan amount, the prices would theoretically hold steady to what they are now due to supply/demand.
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Old 01-03-2023, 01:45 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Im at 117,000 miles on my 2014 NISMO..Bought it brand new with 1/10 of a mile on it...... No problems at all.
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Old 01-03-2023, 02:43 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tractionless View Post
Go 2013 or you're at higher risk of low oil pressure due to oil galley gaskets leaking. It's an internal leak so you won't know unless you have someone check oil pressure for you as there isn't an onboard gauge.

Other than that all years have the same inherent problems of blown rear end cover mount, broken fuel pump hat, locking steering wheel and a couple other less common nuances. Also go with the sport so you get the bigger brakes and LSD.

For SC plan on $350'ish for an oil cooler upgrade right off the bat and most do at least a 19 row even when NA.

If you can wait, it will be a buyers market very soon as prices are already coming down due to interest rates and the economy.

I bought my 2010 sport/touring with 72k on it in 2016 for $15k with a clean carfax/title.
As a 2009 sport owner, I'll give you a few words of my own advice as well.

1. Galley gaskets - it's not big deal to have them changed for newer ones, you'll shell out around $700 for labor, the parts are only $50. After you changed the gaskets, you'll have a peace of mind.

2. In addition to changing or NOT changing gaskets - the Z has a "problem", where it likes to heat up oil if you're pushing it. Because of this, a lot of owners install an oil cooler. Oil cooler means additional pathway for oil, namely just behind the bumper, and you've got all these additional fittings. To make sure all is well - you'll want to install an oil pressure gauge. So - even if you don't do galley gaskets - you can monitor internal oil pressure and know if something's wrong.

3. When I got the car, it being a fully loaded sport package, means I got the beautiful 19" Rays, as well as big akebonos. They work great! I also got that LSD.....that viscous shitty LSD. It never works. It never worked. It's absolute **** and whoever tells me otherwise, either doesn't know what he's talking about or doesn't have the cash to upgrade. The LSD is NOT the part because of which you would want the sport package. It's well worth installing an aftermarket mechanical LSD which will transform the car.

4. Other faults are true - steering wheel lock - can be mitigated just by pulling the fuse out, problem solved forever. Fuel pump hat - well, upgrade the fuel pump.

Other than that - I'd tell you to just go for the lowest mileage clean example you can find and enjoy modifying it as you see fit.
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Old 01-04-2023, 09:15 PM   #13 (permalink)
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231k miles on my 2009. Little to no maintenance issues over the course of owning it since 2011. I stay on top of regular maintenance schedule so nothing really to note that others haven’t touched on.
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Old 01-05-2023, 10:02 AM   #14 (permalink)
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231k miles on my 2009. Little to no maintenance issues over the course of owning it since 2011. I stay on top of regular maintenance schedule so nothing really to note that others haven’t touched on.
Go Gators!
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Old 01-10-2023, 11:53 AM   #15 (permalink)
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I’ve been impressed with what I’ve read/seen about higher mileage Zs. I was a bit hesitant when I picked up my 2014 with just under 80K as it was the highest mileage vehicle I’ve ever purchased. It was a good price though and after reading a bit and seeing tuned/modded Zs at over 130K still ripping, I feel like I bought a low mileage one lol

Carfax showed that it had been well maintained with regular scheduled maintenance done. I took it to another Nissan dealership for an oil change and everything checked out okay. I don’t plan on going FI, just FBO, but I feel confident that I can do those mods and still enjoy it for another 40K miles or even more!
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