370z running higher oil temperature after oil change
 

So I had my oil changed by a Nissan dealership that I normally go to each time. I had them put in my usual oil (Castrol Full Synthetic 5W-30), and I also had them install the Greddy Magnetic Oil Drain Plug. After the oil change I could immediately tell something was off about the car. My oil temps are averaging 10 degrees hotter than they were before the oil change. I usually cruise at 185 or so and now it stays at 195-200 when I am not even getting on it. It even stays at these higher temperatures in 60F or 80F outside temperatures. When I get on the car it comes back down to 200 and never lower when it used to drop to 185.. It is a 2016 370z Sport Tech by the way. There is only one time this has happened previously and that was when I first bought the car and took it to the dealership and they put the wrong oil in (0W-20) from their bulk they use for other cars. I had them correct it but I didn't find out they did this until 3k miles later. Every time I go in for an oil change I bring my own oil and filter ever since. Any ideas? I scheduled another oil change and I am going to have them put back in the OEM drain plug because I think that the magnetic piece on the Greddy plug might be heating up and causing the surrounding oil to read at a higher temperature. Just a thought. Any help would be appreciated! :icon17:

I have a dashcam and I watch them live every time I bring it in. You can watch the oil change I'm referring to here:

https://youtu.be/TUWACaBSLH0

Drain plug has nothing to do with heating the oil up. What ever gave you this idea?

What you are describing above is normal. You also have a factory oil stabilizer on that model unless you have removed it when installing an oil cooler. I see nothing to worry about.

The temps you listed is within normal ranges.

Also, why not DIY the oil changes?

Not speaking for the OP, but the reason why I don’t DIY is because it’s not worth the time or effort. I found a local Indy shop that changes my oil for $40, BUT rotates the tires, checks the brakes, alignment, fluids, etc. something not easily done on my back with Jack stands on a gravel driveway. :rofl2:

Oh, and he flushes my clutch reservoir for $30 as long as I supply the Motol.

$40 is potentially cheaper than going and buying oil & filter to DIY. I wouldn’t be surprised if a normal shop is charging ~$100 for synthetic changes nowadays.

I know a lot of people are using fluid not available at a quick-change shop (redline, amsoil, etc) so that warrants a DIY change


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I’ve paid up to 100+ for synthetic changes. Always changed it at 5,000 miles. Now I pay $40 and change it every 3,000. I’m lucky to have found this guy. And he will give me a discount if I supply my own oil, but I see no reason to do that.

In a rare instance like this, it would make more sense to take it into your guy. For the OP, seems like he would worry about taking his car to the dealer for a simple oil change, when he could be doing it himself.

And how far out into the boonies from Atlanta did you move to? :rofl2:

I agree with Rusty.

Based on your earlier experience, have you considered the possibility that your "usual oil" was put aside (inadvertently) by the service rep at the front desk of the dealership and not brought to the attention of the oil change "technician", who simply followed his/her regular routine and went to the bulk drum of 0W-20 oil and pumped that into your car? In other words, are you certain that they used the Castrol 5W-30 that you provided?

Be glad that you don't have a class A motorhome. It was over $800 to change the oil and grease it. :facepalm: It's one of the reasons I no longer have it.

How many gallons of oil did it take? My 5.9 Cummins takes 3 gallons. To change the oil, the bypass oil filter and the oil filter it is around 170 bucks for the stuff to do it.

5 gallons, 2 oil filters, 2 fuel filters, 100's of hidden grease fittings.

Not far enough! :rofl2:

DIY oil changes are a meditation thing. Sure, if you earn more than 50 bucks per hour, then mathematically speaking, it's cheaper to pay someone to do it than to do it yourself.... But working on my car myself gives that special connection to the car, and gives that satisfaction of driving something you built, not bought. It is very different feeling when you just cash out and someone installs everything you ask for, in comparison with doing it on your own. Plus, if you know what you're doing and got the right tools, it's really "fun" to do. I put fun here in quotes, because whoever did anything, knows that sometimes things don't go according to plans and 3h work easily becomes 13h :D
That all being said, if you're not the hands-on type of guy or you don't feel confident, it's better to pay a professional than to watch your wheel overtake you on the highway...

When planning projects. Always triple the time you have planned for it. 1 hour job, plan on 3 hours.

The 2 hour job you are doing is one broken bolt away from becoming a 3 day chit show.

Murphy is a sadist, and he's watching you.

When things are going well. Somewhere along the line. You f#$ked up.

You don't have the time to do it once. But have the time to do it twice.

After you finish a project and think you are done. You find a handful of parts that you don't remember taking off, and don't remember where they go.

LOL Rusty. Your above meme and post just applied to my recent crank pulley bolt attempt. (see post)

Yes I have a dashcam I watch them live every time I take it in. They used the oil I provided.

Okay so any real idea what's going on? Oil level is correct and they used the oil I provided I have a dashcam I saw them use the right oil. If you want to see the oil change follow this link: https://youtu.be/jTUG4BRA-mU

What oil you getting for 40 bucks?

I mentioned $20 oil changes on a FB post and people ridiculed me. Walmart Syn oil and $1 oil filters from Rock auto.

Magnetic portion of the plug might be heating up from the hot oil and causing surrounding oil to read higher temperature or the magnet is messing with the temperature sensor. Either way I'm getting it changed again and we will see if it fixes the issue.

I never installed any oil cooler. It's supposed to come factory with one. They do quite a bit of unbolting below the car when there's only 2 bolts for the oil change since I have a Z1 Aluminum undershroud installed. Oil changes are the only thing I get done by a third party because I don't have a way to lift it.

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What else could it be if that's all I had done and they used the oil I provided and it happened right after the oil change?

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I don't have a way to lift the car (no low profile lift)

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There are thousands of magnetic drain plugs installed. You would be the first person with it causing the oil to heat up.

So what happened then??

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Outside air temperature got higher. Your temp sensor/wiring is faulty. Maybe they got oil in on the sensor. It aint the drain plug.

Well, the dashcam rules out that possibility.

I'll still have them replace it with the oem plug because I've heard horror stories of the magnet coming off.

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Buy a big piece of magnet and stick it to the bottom of the oil pan. If oil temp goes up more than u have your answer.

Let us know what you find out.

I used to have this chick magnet, and girls did get all warm and fuzzy. Maybe OP is on to something…

If the magnet comes off, it will just stick to the oil pan. Also, the oil temperature sensor is located on the block, and is well removed from the oil drain plug. The plug will not interfere with the temperature reading at the sensor. It may be that your sensor is going bad.

At 40k miles??

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It appears you are stressing over nothing. Your engine is fine.

Alot can happen at 40K miles. Some members had their OEM CSC go out at 1K.

Just wait until his CSC goes out :stirthepot:

Oh now that’s just mean lol, u gonna induce a panic attack.

I'm just merely prepping the OP of what is to come :icon18:

OP, be advised, if you drive a manual, you may want to read up on the CSC issue thread and visit the ZSpeed site.

Auto

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Dodged a bullet :icon17:

Just wait until it goes into limp diick mode, ice mode, fuel stave, or a blown rear diff bushing. He doesn't have to worry about the steering wheel lock.

Okay but for real help? Oil temp?

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