Steering wheel lock but I pulled the fuse??
 

Ok so before everyone flames me, I looked through this post but nothing really applied :

http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivet...heel-lock.html

Some context:
8/11 : Car Battery gets changed

8/16: keyfob dies and I change the battery. I get steering wheel lock symptoms where the push start won’t cycle off of lock and I have the key light illuminated the left side of the panel. I was able to disconnect/reconnect the battery, put the key in the fob holder and the car turned on. Drive home with the “security indicator light” on. The one with the key in the car in the center of the dash.

8/17: I pull the wheel lock fuse because why not

8/23: I go to start the car and just nothing happened the first time I pressed the push start. Second time and the push start won’t cycle off lock or attempt to start and the key sign is illuminated. Again, just disconnected and connected the battery and it started again.

8/26: Key in the fobgina and cycles through lock->acc->on this time but as its about to turn over i get nothing or one click then all electrical input just turns off. It comes back in about a minute but then the same thing happens. Disconnect and reconnect the battery and she starts.

8/27: Key in the fobgina and same problems as yesterday to start the car. But now as im cruising to work i twice lost all electrical input for a split second(dash warning lights came on and radio turned off)
- don't think its the alternator because i've been consistently reading over 14V on the dash's gauge.


My thoughts:
No CEL
Don't think it can be steering column lock since the fuse was pulled
Car and key fob battery are both new and tested, battery putting out 12.65V and key fob battery putting out 3.042
Alternator is reading 14.45V

If it will start with the fob in the fobgina, it's not the ESCL. My guess is that the fob battery is bad.

Key fob battery is brand new


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Are you sure the “new” battery is good? Right size? How about the fob itself? You have another? Try that one.

I’m just guessing here, but if it worked in the fagina, it’s not showing the classic “lock problem” especially since the fuse is pulled and it worked previously.

Have you tried grounding the pink wire?

I didn't say the battery was old, I said it might be bad. You've never bought something and it was defective fresh out of the box?

Is being locked out still a possibility even if I pulled the fuse ?


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To be honest I’m skeptical it’s defective, But I bought a 2 pack so I’ll use the other one and report back just to minimize variability.


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As far as I’m concerned, yes! I think you need to look at the fob more.

If one of the batteries in the two-pack is bad, there's a decent chance the other one is, too. Check with a voltmeter.

Sounds like something is up with the security system having a issue recognizing the keys. Not sure what module that is off the top of my head. Do you have anything plugged into the OBDII port that uses Bluetooth. Sometimes they create interference for the intelligent key system.

So update is that i've been putting the fob into the fobgina the past couple days just as precautionary means and I can't seem to find where my second battery is to use a another one. Well this morning, it did something again. The car cycled through "Lock" and "Acc" and as its about to crank to turn over everything just dies. No electrical response to anything. In about a minute I was able to press the push start again and it did the same thing again. Cycled through lock and acc and then just died. Disconnected + reconnected the battery and then she started right up.

I do not

Just checked it with a DMM and we're putting out 3.042 V

I've done a lot of digging and i'm essentially having the same problem as this thread with the same model year (11 sport) and roughly the same mileage(60k)

http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivet...t-failure.html

but it was last year and only said the dealer charged him 800$ for the repair but didnt specify whats wrong and hasn't replied

Sounds like you had a corroded battery terminal connection. I'd go ahead and clean both terminals. I'd also put a very small amount of dielectric grease where the post and connector touch to lessen future corrosion - YMMV.
Probably be a good idea to check battery electrolyte levels, also.
Good.