Would I be crazy to track my stock 135K mile Z?
 

I have a sport package Z with 135k on it. Only mods are Powertrix coils. It's all stock otherwise. No oil cooler, and pretty sure it's original clutch too, the csc was replaced 100K miles ago.

This would be a bad idea to go out to Laguna Seca without doing anything right? I would limit the car to 6 or 6.5k RPMs and not money shift every gear lol.

If every 3rd lap is a cooldown to get temps back down I'd be okay with it. Mainly worried about temps and probably more concerned about that clutch and the csc saying NOPE after a session or two.

If i had a decent clutch and upgraded csc and an oil cooler i would say heck to the yes, but what do you guys think? I'm sure some of have had stock clutch issues on the track. Don't feel like spending 1,500 on a cooler and clutch for possibly just one or two track days on a such a high mileage car

Yes. You would be crazy. If you're looking to replace your clutch it's a lot easier to, you know, drive it to a shop rather than tow it from the track.

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I say go for it. Mine is mostly stock, has original CSC, no oil cooler, original brake pads and such. I've tracked mine at least 3 times per each of the past 2 years with NO ILL EFFECTS. I run the car as hard as I can, and it has performed flawlessly.

Your CSC could fail at that high of a mileage, but so can one with 20,000 miles on it. I did have one incident of the clutch pedal going to the floor, but that was 3 years ago at the drag strip. Only happened that one time and then NEVER AGAIN. I may be pushing my luck, but I figure why worry about something before it happens. If and when a problem shows up, I'll take care of it then. Until that happens, drive it like it was intended to be driven...

A little video I shot at PittRace last season if you are interested.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wnk5ktFHUsU&t=661s

Z1 track package, good to go.

As long as you're aware of the pitfalls of a 370Z in stock form on the track and don't push them and you've kept up with regular Z maintenance for the 135K miles, I say you're good to go :driving:

Back off when the car starts pulling timing (oil temps > 250 on the gauge). Probably best to end the session and cool off before next one.
Avoid threshold braking. Some fresh brake fluid would be a good thing to do prior (recommend Motul RBF600).
Watch out for fuel starve - keep the throttle input minimum during right hand turns with lots of centrifugal force.
If the clutch is still the original stock one, be easy on it.

You can have a lot of fun on the track in a stock Z just cruising at the Z's comfort level. But if you are pushing for fast times or driving really hard, chances are you're going to break something or at least encounter some limiting factor of the Z in stock form.

I had my Z out at COTA a number of years ago when it was my DD - mostly stock as my only mods were an Ecutek tune and R2C intakes. It was fun, but I went a little hard and had to stop my session early.
Now I'm over 100K and looking to take it out to the track for hard driving. But I'm having to spend a lot of money to make sure that it will be reliable so I can drive it to the track, drive it hard on the track, and drive it home from the track.

[QUOTE=JARblue;3850648 But I'm having the time of my life[/QUOTE]

I fixed that typo for you:rofl2:

If you just want to get it on the track for some spirited driving without pushing for best lap times, I say go for it; but do recommend you have fresh fluids with this high mileage. Clean brake and clutch fluid (Motul RBF600) is strongly recommended (and will help preserve your CSC). If you have not replaced your diff & transmission fluid, it's certainly time for that in any case. Same goes for cooling system, and power steering.

Typically, most events will have drivers that are pushing for their best lap times; so you need to be aware and courteous and give point-bys to avoid causing trains. I'd recommend that you do events where you can have a coach; and be sure to explain your objectives to organizer and coach so that they can help you have the best experience while not limiting others. Your coach can also help you pay attention to your car (temps and sounds) as well as help you have the safest and best experience.

Aka please don't be "that guy."

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lol. I hope you're not money shifting in any gear

Maybe instead of money shifting, i meant banging gears lol

Anyways I do appreciate the input, everyone! This would not be my first track day. So that's the thing. I drove Formula Fords before for a day with some mega instruction from some top people and a few track days with BMWs at thermal club and Thunderhill. Only once was in my own car, so everytime I've been out, I've driven them hard haha. So I mean, i won't be out there just cruising, the temptation will be too much ha.

imo it's gonna be warm at Laguna Seca.

I have a 25 row oil cooler, great for the street, but for some reason I don't have confidence in it being enough for the track.

:iagree:

This right here is spot on. :tup: Go out and enjoy yourself.

I did a track day last year at LS w/ ambient 60-70. Max temp was 220 w/ an oil cooler and I lost clutch pressure briefly (boiled the fluid), but had it come back. My clutch wasn't the same after that, and eventually the CSC died. My car was a 2015 w/ 30k on it. IMO, I wouldn't take a car to the track w/o the oil cooler, esp if it's gonna be warm. It'll be a huge PITA to have to back off and just cruise, or if you run into limp mode. I would at least get the cooler, if not both that and CSC. That's just me though. Getting towed from the track would suck hard.

DO NOT just go to the track!

YOU MUST! Change Brake Fluid to RBF600 or SRF. Change Brake Pads to a Non Street Pads. Failure to do so and your are risking harm to yourself, others, and your car.

Critical, Oil Cooler. Driving slower and attempting to cool your temps down for multiple laps during a session while everyone else is going all out is dangerous. At a minimum you are an obstacle for everyone else trying to get good laps in.

Good to have, AAA Plus or better, Replacement for your stock CSC, and a fuel starve solution.

FYI....

https://www.caranddriver.com/feature...lightning-lap/

SennaZ, you should have posted this in the track section. You would have more support there. EVERYONE HERE is so negative. :mad: PISS ME OFF! Go track you car. Enjoy the day. Learn from it. Don't be afraid to ask questions. Most likely you will have an instructor with you in the beginner group. Take notes, and pictures. If you get bit by the track bug. Then welcome to the rabbit hole and melted credit cards. :driving:

A few things you need to do first. Flush your brake fluid. Change oil and filter. Don't know when you changed the diff and tranny fluid, but it would be a good idea. Check your brake pads. You should have more then half pad. Anything less, change them. YellowStuff is a good DD/ beginner track pad. What condition are your tires?
Wrap insulation around your clutch line down by the exhaust. This will help to keep the heat from the fluid and boiling it.

Limiting factors.
Oil cooler. Don't be surprised if and when you hit limp mode.
Fuel starve. Some will get it. Some will never get it. There is no rhyme or reason on who gets it, and who don't. To keep from getting it. Keep your fuel tank full.

uh . . i'd want at minimum:

- if not NEW tires, some replacement ones with alot of grip left,
- new pads/rotors
- brake fluid
- tranny fluid
- oil cooler
- helmet
- check all safety equipment

That article is 9 years old. A lot has happened and a lot of knowledge gained since then.

C&D boiled the stock brake fluid trying to set lap records. They are idiots :shakes head:

:iagree:

No, you're not crazy at all for wanting to do that.

This would be my checklist for a first timer...

1. Change brake fluid and clutch fluid to a high temp one (Motul 660, Brembo LCF, Brembo HTC 64 are some good options)
2. Make sure tires have some life left in them
3. Upgrading brake pads would be great but for your first time, you should be fine with OEM sport pads and rotors as long as they are still in good shape
4. Buy a helmet after you figure out that this is something you're going to want to do long term. You can get by with a rental or borrow one from a friend in the mean time.
5. Bring a tire pressure gauge, you're going to want to keep an eye on those throughout the day

If you're planning on going to Laguna Seca, I'm heading there at the end of June with Speed Ventures i'll be running June 29th, i'd be glad to meet you and help you pop your track cherry :icon17:

If you want to get out there sooner at a more local track join or check out Nissan Challenge. We're going to be at Chuckwalla Raceway on May 25th, we'll be on break for a few months and then we'll be back after a summer break at Willow Springs in September

You are right, a lot of knowledge has gained since then, but the hardware of the Z is pretty much the same as 9 years ago.


ugh.... apparently they use 22 bone stock car to do the hot laps... every year...

Here is the original article of the event with Z is the only one has the accident..

https://www.caranddriver.com/feature...ning-lap-2009/



While I agree some of you say the OP should/can track the car and have fun on the limit..

meanwhile, the OP also states his Z is bone stock except with the Powertrix Coils.


The reason I dig up that 9 years old article and post it here is I saw

"I have a sport package Z with 135k on it. Only mods are Powertrix coils. It's all stock otherwise. No oil cooler, and pretty sure it's original clutch too, the csc was replaced 100K miles ago."

in the original post..


that connect me to that incident 9 years ago...

of cause many of us has offered suggestions/advices, which is great..

however, if the OP doesn't make those changes on his stock Z...

again, his bone stock Z with sports package is carrying similar hardware to the Z which had accident 9 years ago.


It's only a precaution to the OP, nothing else. :tiphat:

2011 370Z Touring + Sport. Almost stock. Hotchkis front sway bar. Brake fluids. Cold air intake. OEM brake pads. If this car and I survived an entire track day in the heat in California, I am fairly certain his car will be fine.



The key is the brake fluid. The reason that incident happened in the article is not necessarily because of the pads. It's most likely because of the fluid, it boiled. When it boils, you dont have enough pressure in the lines to get sufficient force out of the calipers. If the driver does that enough then the pads are eventually going to heat up and fade as well. But most beginners aren't capable of that.

I did my first couple of trackdays with a bone stock car. Then I was bitten and started to change things. :driving:

We all said to change the brake fluid too.

I mean he doesn't have to and find out when he ends up banking a wall.

I also agree w/ fluid flush. TBH, I don't think you need to switch to the super high temp stuff. I picked up DOT 4 at a local shop and bled the whole system a couple days before my track days. I would highly recommend a decent set of pads as well. I went w/ project mu pads, no regrets. I would really recommend against EBC yellow. My dad and friend used them and they glazed their rotors within the first two sessions. Only common thing between them were the pads. My PMU pads held fantastically though. :D

I never hit the wall. And I bet I was a lot more aggressive my first time out then he will be. :driving:

I used them for a whole year and never glazed the Yellowstuff.

To answer your question, you would be crazy...crazy like a fox.

If you're a beginner and you've found the wall, chances are it wasn't the brake pads that were the problem :rolleyes:

Agreed. Definitely the wall that was the problem.

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:iagree:


My first time. The track was Pittsburgh International. I had a guy in front of me. It was his first time on the track, and it was his cars first time on the track. The car. It was a 2009 Viper ACR with 4,000 miles on it. He had an instructor with him. About the 8th lap, I watched him go through Turn 1 and rejoin the track at Turn 4. He went straight through the grass. I followed him back to the pits. My windshield was covered in PS fluid, and coolant. His whole front end had damage. His day was done. We all got around him with the instructors and had a debrief. It wasn't the cars fault. He was in over his head. The first couple of laps. He was using the same brake marker. With each lap, he was going faster. The last lap, he was going even faster, but used the same brake marker as before. He didn't adjust for the extra speed. And it cost him. Novice mistake. He was driving a car that was WAY more capable then him.

a Viper is probably very high on the list of "worst cars" for a novice to start with

a Civic Si or something is probably safe

an EVO or STI is pretty much impossible to spin, right?

i had a KA24DE powered S14 when i went to the track. That thing made no power, it forced you to learn how to drive properly

I can tell you from unfortunate first-hand experience that AWD cars can be spun if the idiot at the wheel I dumb enough, i.e. I nearly spun an Audi on track lol.

:icon17: Gotta hate it when those walls just jump out at you ;)

:eek: I'm surprised the instructor didn't get him to calm down and adjust his driving, it's very easy for a car like a Viper to get away from anyone especially a noob.

That said im in agreement with the others, that's probably not the best car to pop your track cherry with. It's got a bad enough rep for being a hand full on the street let alone on a race track.

those damned STI and EVOs come with super sticky tires stock, don't they?

I recall some really n00b drivers driving pretty quickly and i was thinking the whole time . . . the car is doing so much of the work bc even without the best line, they just have so much grip they maintain speed

meanwhile my 155 hp n/a 240sx has to be driven like a damned miata to keep momentum up

FYI this was on Thunder Hill and Infineon

i really love infineon, those elevation changes are something when you first start

back in high school i heard of a dude that switched from a 300ZX TT to an MR2 turbo. he drove it the same way and crashed the damned thing immediately, lmao. Going from a 3800 lb RWD car to a 2800 lb MR car . . . yeah

Indeed a Viper is. I've driven a couple of them on the track. It's a car that can be very rewarding or down right frightening. In the right hands, a stock ACR will break lap records, or kill a noob.

The Z is a good car to learn in. It's well balance, has enough power to get you in trouble, will reward you with a good lap. And it WILL suck you down the rabbit hole.


I've seen the Civic Si, EVO, STI have their moments going off the track. You can spin anything on the track if you try hard enough. Nothing like feeling when you spin 180. And you are looking eyeball to eyeball with the guy behind you. The look on both your faces. His eyes and your eyes are big as dinner plates. :shakes head: Back in the pits. You ask the guy if he got it on video. He says no, he forgot to turn on his GoPro. :( I said I got it. Only to find out that the battery died about 5 minutes before. :shakes head:

A good handling slow car will teach you more things than a fast car will. What you learn with the slow car will help you later in the fast car.

I road raced 1000cc motorcycles back in the late '70's and early '80's. Then started doing trackdays with motorcycles in early 2000. When I got my Z. I started doing trackdays with it. Had no trouble switching from 2 wheels to 4 wheels.

Yeah, bad combination of noob driver, and noob instructor. It was the first trackday of the year too. Everyone was green and rusty.

I was using that as an example. The car got great brakes stock. But if you don't adjust your driving for the greater speed from learning and getting more confidence . Chit happens, and not for the best. The best mod is to the nut behind the steering wheel. Face time with the windshield. :driving:

i have to confess i spun the S14 myself. just way too fast into the hairpin area

thank goodness i didn't catch any wall (which they had put tires in front whew)