jacking points
 

I pulled all 4 wheels off to get the rims powder coated and new ties mounted, so right now it's sitting on blocks and jack stands.

Jacking points are dismal on this car. Using a floor jack on the pinch seam jacking points bends stuff and I don't like using one, but it's really the only viable alternative. I am able to get under the cradle in front to lift the front in the middle, which works OK. In the rear I don't see a spot in the center of the car that will support the car. I don't believe you can lift under the diff, but maybe I'm wrong?

I have jackstands under the rear control arm mounts and blocks under the engine cradle holding the car up but I had to use the rear jacking point on the side of the car to get the jakstands under it....not optimal.

How are you guys getting your car off the ground? Don't say a 2 post lift...lol, though I do fantasize.....

You probably didn't need to start a new thread on this topic. Try cutting a slit in a hockey puck. Or check out either one of these threads for additional information.

http://www.the370z.com/exterior-inte...act-point.html

http://www.the370z.com/nissan-370z-g...oints-car.html

:iagree:I use the hockey puck method works great and no damage.

:D

But I did go through a few hockey pucks before the lift.

http://www.the370z.com/members/markg...ide-skirts.jpg

I eat hockey pucks. And use them for jacking up the car.


https://thumbs.worthpoint.com/zoom/i...cbc905ca9a.jpg

Also check out these stands, I've really enjoyed them. https://esco.net/products/esco-3-ton...le-jack-stand/

On a tangent and for posterity, what order do y'all jack the ENTIRE vehicle up in to have enough space under it to work... for whatever reason. When I have the front of my car up on ramps, not even a low profile jack fits under the rear.

I guess the front a little, then the rear entirely, then the front entirely?

Lifting from the sides the jack is in the way of where the stands need to go and always turns into a dance of shuffling things around a little at a time.

Also Mark I hate you.

http://www.the370z.com/exterior-inte...ml#post3058837

If I have to use the pinch rails to lift, then I usually just put the front jacks stands on the frame (see blue boxes in the attached pic in the linked post above).

I drive my stock Z onto a 2x6 laid flat and can reach the front jack point with a little rubbing on the plastic chin spoiler. Lowered Z needs at least two stacked and sometime that won't do it depending on the setup. Yes, typical order for me is front partially, rear fully, then level the front.

I think you need the “long reach” low profile jack. I have a lowered 09 Nismo, and I have no problem with reaching the rear diff after the front is up on jack stand. And I only need to get the car up around and inch to get the jack under the front end.

Talk more via pm if you want to try it out, I have Race Ramps also.

If you're using jack stands, I believe the pinch welds/reinforced spots are your only real option. For just a floor jack, there is a dimple on the front behind the belly pan and you can use the rear diff. Both of those points are Nissan jack points for floor jacks. Won't help you if you want to keep the car up on stands though. FWIW, I have had the car up on all 4 points on jack stand w/o a problem and have put it on a QuickJack which uses the same points.

Yes, THIS is my question....jacking up to get a wheel off is one thing. I want to be able to get the whole car on jackstands. It's easier to go under the middle someplace and jack the entire end at one time, but wonder if there's any place under the rear of the car that'll hold up the car to do so.

The diff is mounted solidly enough to lift the back? Good to know.

I found the dimpled part up front and used that.

I also use the front dimple thing to jack up the entire front and the diff to jack up the entire rear... rear is no problem even under the elongated aluminum fins on my Z1 diff cover.

I used to drive up on 2x6's to get clearance to jack up the front like JAR, but then I bought these cheap ramps and they have been awesome:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also needed a long reach, low profile jack to reach the front jack point... mine is from Harbor Freight but it appears that they have discontinued that model... Shame, it is a fantastic jack.

My car is not lowered, but the front chin spoiler/air dam makes it very annoying to get a normal floor jack under the front. So I usually use either a scissor or floor jack for one of the front pinch welds to raise the front enough to get the floor jack under. Floor jack to the front dimple to raise the whole car evenly, then jack stands under the front two pinch welds. Then I do the back, floor jack on the rear diff, then jack stands under the rear pinch weld jack points. I do exactly the reverse when taking it off.

If you do the back first, I find that the front dips down too far and it makes it harder to get a floor jack under it. The easier solution to all this is getting a quick jack or JackPoint jack stands. I don't have either currently (no garage), but at my parents' place, I've used both and I really liked both. JackPoint is waaaay easier to store and deal with than quick jack though, IMO.

Home


Here's a link to the old thread discussing the exact jack points. I too was curious if the diff was actually the right spot, but it is apparently per the Nissan manual.

http://www.the370z.com/nissan-370z-g...pinchweld.html

Drive up on a couple of 2x12s. easy to get the jack under the front then, save ya some time.

I love those jackstands. :tup: If I put the car with swift springs, on raceramps, my long, lowprofile reach jack from HF has 1/8" clearance under the rear diffuser (fujimura) while reaching the rear diff.