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Originally Posted by redondoaveb Install one of these. 370Z & G37 AFP Clutch Pedal Assemblies After reading that product page that thing looks literally like a dream come true and
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#1 (permalink) | |
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The clutch feel has always been my least favorite thing about my car and it made it a little harder than it needed to be for me to learn a manual transmission in a car. I hated how high up the engagement point was on the clutch pedal. And how stiff the pedal is. And how it seems like such a tiny engagement window for the difference between not moving and stalling the engine lol. I haven't stalled this car in probably 8 months but it was a rough couple of first months. But I take it that means that smooth and fast 1-2 isn't possible with the factory assembly? Haha EDIT: after a little more reading it seems the install is fairly easy. Is this true? Is it easy even for a disaster with a wrench like me? I installed my short ram intakes myself... Last edited by Cory Gillmore; 09-13-2018 at 10:35 PM. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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It's a night and day difference. Everyone on here that has installed one (and there are a lot) will verify how good it is. There are multiple reviews on here also. It was my first mod, I absolutely hated how my car drove before I made the change.
This pedal will solve all the issues you mentioned. It can be kind of a pain (literally) to install only because of the position you have to be in to do the work and you're working in tight quarters under the dash.If you don't feel comfortable in your mechanical ability then I would pay someone to do it. If you get stuck and end up not being able to complete it and need a mechanic to finish it, you won't be able to drive it to the shop.
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#3 (permalink) |
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$300 in labor is quite a bit more than it should cost, I would think. Someone that can turn wrenches decently can have the new style pedal installed in an hour, tops.
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#4 (permalink) |
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I can turn wrenches and it took me several hours, but mostly because I'm 6'3 big guy, and had to take multiple breaks from the awful position you have to work in.
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#5 (permalink) | |
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I do have to admit that I installed the v2 pedal a long time ago and my back hurt for a week afterwards trying to contort under the dash and reach tools. |
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#6 (permalink) |
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I learned how to drive stick at 14 and then I drove a tractor-trailer. The Z with its rev matching I hardly ever touch the brakes which I can see the person in my rear view mirror become disoriented as they do not see the brake lights but if I ever get rear-ended well a new Z and a lawsuit...anyway check this video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yPihrjB37bg Last edited by HEK; 09-14-2018 at 08:21 AM. |
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#7 (permalink) | |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Downshifting to a light I generally let revs drop to 1200 then downshift. From 3rd I go to neutral.
For sport/racing cornering, I will downshift a bit more aggressively (earlier) but I leave the transmission a gear longer than what I will apply power in. I only go to that gear when applying power. This is from decades of racing simulations when I realized that when transitioning in a corner an aggressive downshift may have left you with unwanted engine braking, hence I leave it a gear long to mitigate than and only do the last downshift to apply power. YMMV The only way to be really smooth from 1-2 is to baby it and shift around 2k (economy shift). If you are hooning around, you are going to be a bit rough. You can't engage 2nd at 5k and not have your head move. Where I find myself skipping gears is away from a traffic light. I give it some welly to get away from traffic then go to 6th/overdrive. |
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#9 (permalink) | |
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