Nissan 370Z Forum
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Nissan 370Z Forum (http://www.the370z.com/)
-   Nissan 370Z General Discussions (http://www.the370z.com/nissan-370z-general-discussions/)
-   -   Need tips for driving manual 370z (http://www.the370z.com/nissan-370z-general-discussions/128362-need-tips-driving-manual-370z.html)

madwi 09-14-2018 03:02 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by nandosman (Post 3785719)
I can turn wrenches and it took me several hours, but mostly because I'm 6'3 big guy, and had to take multiple breaks from the awful position you have to work in.
I am 6' and quite fat and I just installed the v3 last weekend. It is a breeze as all you have to do after removing oem pedal is two nuts to the CMC and a bolt on the top of the assembly. Hook the fork up and put the two sensors put back on and the plastic strikers. Done deal.
I do have to admit that I installed the v2 pedal a long time ago and my back hurt for a week afterwards trying to contort under the dash and reach tools.

dts3 09-14-2018 07:02 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cory Gillmore (Post 3785706)
After reading that product page that thing looks literally like a dream come true and is probably a must have for performance driving in the 370. $300 ain't too bad either! Probably another $300 in labor and it's still not too bad!

The clutch feel has always been my least favorite thing about my car and it made it a little harder than it needed to be for me to learn a manual transmission in a car. I hated how high up the engagement point was on the clutch pedal. And how stiff the pedal is. And how it seems like such a tiny engagement window for the difference between not moving and stalling the engine lol. I haven't stalled this car in probably 8 months but it was a rough couple of first months.


But I take it that means that smooth and fast 1-2 isn't possible with the factory assembly? Haha

EDIT: after a little more reading it seems the install is fairly easy. Is this true? Is it easy even for a disaster with a wrench like me? I installed my short ram intakes myself...
What really helped me to pickup smooth fast speed on 1-2 shitfs (and I still have a lot of work) was to work out getting back on the throttle fast enough. I was always slow to throttle coming out of first gear because I was so focused on the RPM drop

radix023 09-14-2018 07:37 AM
Downshifting to a light I generally let revs drop to 1200 then downshift. From 3rd I go to neutral.

For sport/racing cornering, I will downshift a bit more aggressively (earlier) but I leave the transmission a gear longer than what I will apply power in. I only go to that gear when applying power. This is from decades of racing simulations when I realized that when transitioning in a corner an aggressive downshift may have left you with unwanted engine braking, hence I leave it a gear long to mitigate than and only do the last downshift to apply power. YMMV

The only way to be really smooth from 1-2 is to baby it and shift around 2k (economy shift). If you are hooning around, you are going to be a bit rough. You can't engage 2nd at 5k and not have your head move.

Where I find myself skipping gears is away from a traffic light. I give it some welly to get away from traffic then go to 6th/overdrive.

HEK 09-14-2018 08:17 AM
I learned how to drive stick at 14 and then I drove a tractor-trailer. The Z with its rev matching I hardly ever touch the brakes which I can see the person in my rear view mirror become disoriented as they do not see the brake lights but if I ever get rear-ended well a new Z and a lawsuit...anyway check this video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yPihrjB37bg

falsereality 09-14-2018 12:58 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cory Gillmore (Post 3785706)
After reading that product page that thing looks literally like a dream come true and is probably a must have for performance driving in the 370. $300 ain't too bad either! Probably another $300 in labor and it's still not too bad!

The clutch feel has always been my least favorite thing about my car and it made it a little harder than it needed to be for me to learn a manual transmission in a car. I hated how high up the engagement point was on the clutch pedal. And how stiff the pedal is. And how it seems like such a tiny engagement window for the difference between not moving and stalling the engine lol. I haven't stalled this car in probably 8 months but it was a rough couple of first months.

But I take it that means that smooth and fast 1-2 isn't possible with the factory assembly? Haha

EDIT: after a little more reading it seems the install is fairly easy. Is this true? Is it easy even for a disaster with a wrench like me? I installed my short ram intakes myself...
If you are small, flexible, and mechanically familiar then this install should be easy. It took me 3 hours to do a 1 hour job because it was a PITA to get where you need to be and see what you're doing.

mishuko 09-14-2018 06:58 PM
You can install it yourself in less than 2 hours

CRiZO 09-15-2018 12:15 AM
Sell it and buy an automatic. ;D
(almost serious. the stock clutch pedal is a POS. go RJM immediately.)

In general, clutches are cheap. Ride or feather it to your heart's content. Cars couldn't care less if you shift sequentially or skip gears. I've always skipped gears and my clutches lasted forever. Don't lug the engine.

Consider the clutch a torque modifier. The engine is doing it's own thing and doesn't want to struggle.

Cory Gillmore 09-27-2018 12:59 AM
What kind of life can we expect out of these clutches? I'm at 77k miles at the moment and all seems well so far/ I guess it depends on your driving style. What are some signs of a failing clutch?

ChopsZ 09-27-2018 07:30 AM
I'm going to come off sounding like a d!ck, but if you have to think and ask about how to drive a stick, you probably shouldn't be driving a stick.

mishuko 09-27-2018 08:54 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChopsZ (Post 3788524)
I'm going to come off sounding like a d!ck, but if you have to think and ask about how to drive a stick, you probably shouldn't be driving a stick.
Litlte bit. I can say the clutch on the z is unique. High grab point like a race car but very numbed feeling for that bite.

Exedy clutch i find better personally.

The n-1-2 shifting are hardest for most in this car

dts3 09-27-2018 09:05 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChopsZ (Post 3788524)
I'm going to come off sounding like a d!ck, but if you have to think and ask about how to drive a stick, you probably shouldn't be driving a stick.
Everyone has to learn at some point.

FPenvy 09-27-2018 09:07 AM
tips on driving a manual Z.......


sell manual Z
buy 7AT Z
beat every manual Z.


very simple steps :tiphat:

JARblue 09-27-2018 09:53 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cory Gillmore (Post 3788508)
What kind of life can we expect out of these clutches? I'm at 77k miles at the moment and all seems well so far/ I guess it depends on your driving style. What are some signs of a failing clutch?
I'm at 100K and the clutch still going strong. I've had to replace every part of the clutch hydraulic system except the factory hard lines. But the clutch is fine.

The synchros are probably more prone to wear than the clutch plate unless you don't know how to launch and do it a lot. My 5th gear synchro has been grinding since 20K miles - I just baby it to avoid the grind since no need for hard shifting into 5th gear on the street.

Jimbo370 09-27-2018 02:07 PM
Yes I find gear shifting from 2nd to 6th gear at 45mph grinding all the time? He might want to try taking the spring out first(cheaper and smaller step):hello:

ChopsZ 09-27-2018 02:30 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by FPenvy (Post 3788561)
tips on driving a manual Z.......


sell manual Z
buy 7AT Z
beat every manual Z.


very simple steps :tiphat:
Only true in a straight line drag race. For daily fun on the streets, not so much.


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