the difference?
 

So I've been browsing around for a drop in filter and so far I'm leaning towards the K&N filters, I recently came across this on Z1 HKS Super Hybrid Air Filters (370Z / G37) What are your thoughts on them? the kit comes with 2 filters for $68 compare as to 46 ea for K&N. Anyone has any thoughts on them? I know HKS makes great quality stuff but thoughts would be helpful.

Seriously, spend your money elsewhere. 3-5 hp difference you are not going to feel. Do something like fang vents for about the same...

http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...ur-airbox.html

well I recently had a great in depth talk with someone about after market intake upgrades, and to my surprise he recommended drop-ins instead of upgrading to long tubes, for the sake of confidentiality I will not say who and why. But I trust the guy because he knows what he's talking about and ever since then I've scratched out Injen and Stillen longtubes on my list.

Yes, because solid gains are bad. :rolleyes:

lol

wanna buy my takedas

:roflpuke2:

drop-ins gain about 1/5-1/3 of the power that long-tubes or a setup similar to modshacks do...

well this is what he told me, if you just do an intake upgrade and everything else stock sure the Stillen and Injen will show 10-17 HP gains but once you decided to upgrade other things such as exhaust, headers and high flow, the intakes will not come in the factor of adding HP if not any. So he recommended to just get a K&N drop in filter. He is not K&N sales person nor is he a stillen / injen person as well. It's just his two cents and he's got data to back it up. But I don't want to give out names because I don't want people to flame.

lol

its not spawn is it



:bowrofl: j/k

Well, FWIW, I did the CBE and HFC upgrade first. Then I did the G3 intakes afterwards, and if I remember correctly, I got a solid +14whp gain from the intakes, having done a baseline dyno after installing the CBE and HFC. Give me a minute and I'll dig up the thread for you.

Here you go:
http://www.the370z.com/intake-exhaus...eview-etc.html

Gain was 14.7 on Dyno Dynamics.

:iagree:

this thread is like playing with matches near a leaking propane tank...

:owned:

Your source's logic doesn't make any sense. Intakes are designed to pull in colder, denser air to increase the efficiency of the burn in the combustion chamber, along with higher flow, and in our case messing a little bit with the mass air flow sensor positioning and tubing to lean out our air fuel ratio a tad.

Adding in other bolt ons generally increase flow on the ass end of the engine, which only makes the longtubes a BETTER choice since you will relieve all of the bottlenecks in the system. If you just did drop-ins and a full exhaust, your engine choke point will likely be at the intake since it won't flow as much air as it could, restricting horsepower.

lol kdo it's not spawn, it's someone that knows cars really well and the reason why I'm keeping confidentiality is for the sake of him and I don't think he wants reps from Stillen or Injen to know that he's saying things like this, and trust me he is not bashing on them it's just him being honest to me on what he thinks it's worth the money, remember guys, Long tubes have more bends and longer distance to travel then the stock airbox, the stock airbox is restrictive at top end. I can definitely go and drop $550 on a set of long tubes but realistically after hearing what he had to say and his data to back everything up I don't think I'd want to do long tubes.

semtex is right jake...

the z performs more efficiently with straight pipe long intakes as opposed to the rigid corrogated stock setup or the takeda setup im running mine just sux in all the hot engine bay air and thats nogood for hp gains...

nissan did an excellent job of sealing up the engine bay so not alot of fresh can get in unless some sort of mods are done to help the fresh air get in