Nissan 370Z Forum - 370z Brake Fluid Flush Checklist

Tons of great How To's out there and I will list two videos below....some of the checklist may not make sense until you watch the two videos below and purchase some of the equipment.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s_0CSMzK1aI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K3Tn2kFowY0

Both videos are great but one forgot to mention things that the other does and vice versa....I also included tips and comments from other how to's to fill in some of the blanks. Then I put together a checklist used it today and it worked great.(no air, brakes firm )... I don't like thinking :ugh2: and this list allows me and you...to just follow it and you wont forget anything...I hope it will be helpful for others? :confused::tup:

By the way If you like this checklist then give me some stinkin rep points...:wtf2::icon17:

Brake fluid change: 370z

Brake fluid is acidic so always clean where it drops

Tools needed:
10 mm wrench
Torque wrench - 10 mm socket
Tools to remove wheels
Container to pour brake fluid after each bottle fills.
Longacre catch bottle
Motive Power Bleeder

Jack up car

Disconnect ABS actuator and negative terminal

Remove old brake fluid from brake master:
Remove with Syringe
Remove small filter ( do not replace until finished )
We have internal baffles use smaller hose to get all fluid out.

Add new fluid to brake master
Up to the max line

Put on Motive cap:
Step 1: Check the reservoir bottle notch and motive cap notch. Line up gap to notch perfectly. step 2: PUSH straight down HARD. push push push. make sure motive cap is all the way down. Don't be afraid. step 3: THEN you turn the cap. if it's not turning, that means you didn't push down enough.
Note: Think you'll feel resistance as you push down and then click feeling at the cap goes all the way down.

Pressurize Filler

10 Psi to confirm no leaks

Put fluid in Motive container
Un-pressurize container and add at least 1.25 liters of fluid ( approximately 1.25 quarts)
Note: Each of the special GTR brake fluid is 1 quart.
What I did: Poured 2 quarts of fluid in Motive Bleeder.

Pressurize bleeder:
15 Psi check that this is constantly at 15 PSI or around during the bleed.

Order of bleed:
rear right , front left, rear left, front right
- While you are about to bleed: Good time to check brake pads

Which Valve first:
Inner then outer
Note: this is debatable...some say the opposite. Oddly I could not find anything in the service tech. manual on this..perhaps this is proof it does not matter which order.
I read this before and it made sense: Start with inside first, since the fluid in the outside of the caliper must flow through the inside first. This way the new fluid will go into the inside half of the caliper first. Then the outside of the caliper will get the new fluid from the inside half.

Note: don't open the valve up all the way just enough. You do not want it to possible leak out the sides and get air trapped back in.

Attach Bleeder bottle:
Attach one hose to each valve
Check you are at 15 psi on Motive gauge
Open Longacre bottle lid slightly so that air can pass
Also loosen the valve on the longacre bottle bleeder pipe above the bottle lid
Note: When you remove each tube from each bleed valve you can get some drips or spills. So first wrap a small cloth around the valve and then remove slowly and allow towel to absorb.
Another tip from SG4247:
With the Longacre bottle mounted high above the caliper during bleeding - that worked perfect, allowing trapped air bubbles to migrate up the tube into the catch bottle. When done bleeding, close the bleeder screw, then move the Lonacre bottle to the floor or BELOW the caliper, before removing the hose from the bleeder nipple. Since the column of fluid is below the nipple, when you remove the hose it actually sucks (vacuums) the residual brake fluid into the tube - spilling absolutely zero fluid onto the caliper!
If you do get some of the brake fluid on your calipers etc. clean it off, it can ruin and burn finish.

Total bleed time or amount?
Longacre catch bottle is 6.4 oz there are 32 ounces in a quart.
Bleed time on rear 50 seconds on front 30 seconds
Suggestion: RR I do a full bottle bleed as line longest. Then 3/4 bottle for LR. 1/2 bottle for FR and 1/2 for FL.
What I did: I just did a full bottle ( Longacre 6.4 oz ) on each side.
Make sure you are maintaining 15 Psi pressure level after each brake location you bleed.

Torque on each bleed valve?
70 inch/lbs. each bleed valve

Finishing up:
Slowly release pressure from motive bleeder.
Remove cap
Add fluid up to middle of min and max
Replace small blue filter
Reconnect: ABS actuator and negative terminal

Clean Motive unit:
To clean the POWER BLEEDER after use pour denatured alcohol into the tank and into the tube. Dispose of the dirty alcohol. Allow the unit to air dry. Store in a cool, dry, dark area with the hose wrapped loosely around the unit without any kinks in the hose. DO NOT USE BRAKE CLEANER ON ANY PART OF THE UNIT. If denatured alcohol can not be found a mild dish washing detergent may be used, however insure all soap is rinsed out prior to air drying unit and that unit is completely dry prior to next use. We highly recommend replacing the hose every 3-4 years or if inspection shows any damage to the hose.