What is considered beating on your car?

ChaseZ

They key here is to let it idle and warm up in the garage first. Then you're good to go!

b15

It's funny you say this bc there's an m3 sedan that parks near me at the train station everyday. Every afternoon he gets in starts it up and is off within 5secs even in the dead of winter. I can hear his exhaust roaring through the lot. Hell I even give my DD at least 30-60secs for oil to circulate before driving off easily.

Chuck33079

Why do people seem to think 7k rpm is somehow bad? The factory set the rev limiter at 7500rpm. If that caused the car to explode, they would have set it lower. They're not going to warranty something that self-destructs.

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mishuko

Trueth

But I can't redline anything past 3rd to stay street legal

ChaseZ

It's not. And by itself neither is Vegas. But if you love on the strip 24/7 and don't use precautions eventually you're going to catch something.

b15

Agree. My Z sees red-line almost every drive

Heck, my DD does too, ha

Chuck33079

Oh, my DD gets beat like a rented mule. It's very well maintained, but it's a 3-5 year appliance. The day after the factory warranty expires, it gets tossed out and replaced. I'm not looking to go 200k in this thing.

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alcheng

because it says in the driver's manual they don't recommend "warm-up" the engine, even the 370z manual say that too.

They recommend drive off with a slow speed.



quote from the video description:

"Cars with electronic fuel injection do not need to be warmed up before lightly driving off. This is because fuel injected engines can compensate for temperature changes. Cold engines run rich to compensate for poor fuel atomization. This means extra fuel is injected into the combustion chamber.

Now fuel is a solvent, so when extra fuel gets on the cylinder walls, it washes away the oil from the cylinders and pistons. Less oil on the cylinder walls means less protection, and because the oil is cold it makes it harder for it to be replaced. This means the longer you spend with your engine cold, the more wear you’ll have. Idling the engine doesn’t put much heat into it, so the car remains cold for a long duration.

If it’s cold outside, you can wait 15-30 seconds to ensure that oil is flowing, but you don’t need to wait for the engine to be warm. It will heat up faster by driving the car lightly. By heating it up faster, the oil gets to operating temperature more quickly, and this is what you want to prevent wear. If it’s really cold outside, the time it takes to scrape off the windows so you can see will be plenty of time for oil to start circulating, so you can get in and go once you can see out the windshield. "

mishuko

My dad was like yo check your car out it smells of gasoline out here after you started.

I was like you mean it smells like glory.

I try not rev over 3k until the thermostat dot moves. I try not to do 5k until oil temp moves. Then it's no holds every chance I can take to make sports car vroom.

Pewpew!!

Fren_Z

I'm sitting at 60k miles and mostly shift around 5-6k. She loves being driven that way imo. I don't beat on first gear as much.

So what's considered beating on your car? probably taking a bat to it which I hope nobody ever does!!

b15

Revving it to 5k+ within 10secs of starting it up on a cold day isn't applicable to that article. Do you do that to your car after its sat in sub 20* temps all day?

jchammond

Tachometer when shifting to 2nd & not paying 100% attention.


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ZeroZeta

mishuko

Seriously i thrash first like a boss. I hit the limiter on 2nd over the weekend. Was like fun fun fun crushing dissapointment when no more fun could be had

Its nice to get some nice spirit into corners.

Raeshlavik

I'd define 'beating your car' as working the vehicle at the upper limits of either the machine or the driver. Because this is where you will get the most mechanical wear, fluids will break down, and physical stresses are at their peak... Meaning this is where you are purposefully applying as much damage to things as you think you can get away with and not walk home.

For me the determination 'to beat, or not to beat' really depends on the parts cost of the car. This is because driving at the mechanical limits is turning the Laws of Thermodynamics into Fun, and there's always a price to pay for this.

Take my Abarth for example; this is a car I well and truly beat on.

It has a really bad case of Little Man Syndrome and will happily respond to any and all challenges (including Challengers, which generally stand no real chance unless they're halo models). It gets autocrossed, quarter miled, and every red light and on ramp is a chance to prove something... And the little 1.4L under the hood is wound incredibly tight and is usually supplied with ~30 PSI - and it makes north of 220HP. So every nut, bolt, and seal in the thing is subjected to incredible stress when I'm hooning it.

If I did not perform maintenance on the car in accordance with this style of driving, it'd last maybe 90 days.

But because I tend to take the whole thing apart and inspect it monthly (wheel bearings... If you drive like a lunatic, check your wheel bearings for play...), I can get away with it. That and and replacement parts for it are stupidly cheap; I replaced everything from the turbo to the tailpipe on the Abarth for what the short tails cost on the Z...

So I beat the crap out of the Abarth, and I expect I will continue to do so for another decade.