Break in period for a new z
 

Tried looking for a thread on this...
Or perhaps I haven't looked hard enough?:icon14:

Awaiting my factory order 2017 NISMO Z (MT)


just curious on your opinion for a proper break-in period?

Was thinking 3 - 5K miles...
before any performance mods. (i.e. exhaust & intake)


feedback from NEW Z owners much appreciated!

Cheers!:tup:

The manual states that you shouldn't go over 4k RPM before 1,200 miles. I hit 7.5k RPM as soon as my Z left the dealership lot.

Every new car I've ever owned I took it easy on for the first 1000 miles. But if the manual says keep it under 4000 rpm for first 1200 miles who am I to argue. Have fun with the Z, that first 1200 miles might be the longest.

4k is just the tip of where the fun begins :yum:

1200 miles. Tolerances are pretty good on modern machines, but there is still some good science behind the break-in procedures. If you want to feel good about your break-in, run the RPMs up and down constantly - i.e. avoid cruise control scenarios where you are at the same RPMs for extended periods of time. Avoid WOT, but don't be afraid to occasionally run the throttle up pretty high as you hit 4K RPMs or even a bit more. Change oil immediately after break-in.

Or just beat the $hit out of it right off the lot :driving:

Something kinda cool, Acura actually does this for the consumer on the new NSX so when they drive it off the lot they can go whip it without concern. The engines are already broke in at the factory.

A lot of modern ECUs seem to pull back the power for the first thousand or so miles too. Pentastars are notorious for this, and at like 1200 miles you suddenly get a whole new car. :)

I've read a few times now that the 370Z seems to open up right around a thousand miles - might be something similar?

As for me, I baby the engine for 3-400 miles and then gradually push it harder and harder. I've redlined the Z a few times pulling some 0-60 passes now, but this is interspersed with casual around-town stop and go. I've done the same thing for about a dozen new cars now, with zero issues.

And yes, plan to have an oil change at 12-1500 miles just so you can check for metal content.

IMNSHO, JARblue has the right idea. You can either drive "normally" for about 1000-1500 miles or flog the crap out of it. The former will definitely be better on the engine but the latter probably won't do all that much damage with modern materials and construction.

I have just the first 150 kilometers on mine.
I will stick to the manual and keep it under 4k and won't go WOT for up to 1000 kilometers. I think that is the most important thing to do.
After that can push it form time to time.
Short distance rides or longer periods of cruising at a steady RPM are almost impossible to avoid.

And I let my AT do the job for me at the moment. Should not engine brake to hard.

I'm 240 miles into ownership of my new MY17 Nismo. I have to agree that this is the most boring period of time ever! I read that the GTRs are recommended to run in for 1,400 miles. So it its good enough for a GTR its good enough for me!
I'm running at 4k RPM max and its a really struggle as the car just wants to get up and go around those revs!

I didn't consider an oil change though. I got a deal of a 3 year service package from Nissan, but don't think it would include this oil change after the run in. So will go see how much that would be.
Would you recommend just an oil and filter change after the 1,500 miles?

The first oil change gets rid of any break in material from the engine and manufacturing process. Do the oil and filter change after the initial break in (even if you have to pay for it) and then at the manufacturer's recommendation thereafter...

:iagree:

If the dealer won't cover it as part of the service contract, then I would at least try to get them to by bringing up the point about wear during the break-in period. If not, tell them you'll bring your own oil and filter (5 qts of Mobil 1 is ~$25 at Walmart). Most dealers charge $10-15 for the labor on an oil change.

For my wife's Honda, I've started just paying the dealer for the cost of the filter and labor (usually runs me $18 + the $25 for Mobil 1 oil). Although for the Z I like to use a Purolator PureOne filter, which usually requires an additional trip to the auto parts store. I stock up on oil and filters whenever I find a good price.

Went through this quick but I think you guys missed something... Avoid keeping the engine at the same RPM for any period of time. If your on highway, vary your speed and switch to 5th periodically. This is for the cams.

Post #5 :tiphat: ;)

LOL, like someone said, the car is already broke in...drive it like you stole it and then change the oil and filter!!!:stirthepot: