I need to replace my Engine!! Help Needed.

R0bDC

There is no more to the story. The last oil change I had done was at the dealership at 80k miles, I was suppose to have it change again at 83 but I didn't. I continue checking the oil level however. At 84k I went to yellow stone and now I am at 88k. The oil level never went below the the mid section between low and high.

Now the oil was really dirty, I will admit that. I was going to have change in the next few days before this happen. But I had just bought like 2 weeks ago to Pilot Super Sport tires.

They called and said it was the Crank Bearings. Are they really as cheap as the internet suggests?

In regards to the transmission, honestly I don't know why I never got a any type of paperwork. I never even got the statement of the work they completed. I was just happy they were covering it.

Also, I never put anything else in my car other than Mobil 5w-30.

cv129

__________________
Setrab | RE-71 | SPL | JRZ | Nismo | ARK | Whiteline | RacingBrake | CJM Oil Pan | Ti shield

Duc_Z09

8k is way too far between oil changes. Although even then the amount of wear would depend on many different factors. When they say crank bearings they probably mean both rod and mains.... I assume your engine is knocking then. This can definitely be fixed without a full replacement. Are there bronze metallic flakes in your oil?

__________________
2009 370z #206 (all mods are Home Depot)
2009 Ducati 848 (full Ohlins, Termignoni, etc)
2003 Grand Cherokee (long arms, big tires, 4.56, lockers)

Jhill

8k is really not that bad on today's engines and oils. Most Oem now spec about 7500 with regular crap oil, run a full top grade synthetic and good filter and you should be fine, I forgot to take an oil sample for analysis my last change but next one I will just to confirm.

Spooler

8K on this car/engine is way too far especially on Mobil 1 5w30. 5K is the max I would even consider running. Another engine lost due to poor maintenance.

cv129

The 8k OCI may or may not be ok, really depend on how OP treats his car and in what environment.

__________________
Setrab | RE-71 | SPL | JRZ | Nismo | ARK | Whiteline | RacingBrake | CJM Oil Pan | Ti shield

Jhill

This is true. All about what's used and how it's treated. Racing everyday, not going to make 8k. Regular driving with some spirited driving and using high grade class 4/5 synthetics and good filters (amsoil are best I've found for filtration) and you'll be fine. Even Nissan list 7500 as normal driving condition and 3750 for secure on regular oil and that is just playing it safe, look at all the German running 10-15k on full synthetic and their engines run hotter, and burn dirtier than ours.

MagmaRed370z

Depends on what oil and type of driving. 8K is max. My Nissan dealer puts a "reminder sticker" to change at 5k. So I don't think 3 more K is an engine killer.

__________________
Sold: 2014 Magnetic Black Base.
Current: 2014 Magma Red 370z Sport | ARK Grip Exhaust | 25mm HR Spacers | GTR Button | DRL Mod

BGTV8

Bearing death is usually due to sustained hi-rpm or oil starvation but oil consumption needs to be excessive and/or lateral G need to be significant for that to happen.

OP talks about "checking my oil" so I'm thinking that 8k miles he has burned enough oil for starvation to occur - probably as a consequence of a steep grade.

In any event, I'm calling this as a consequence of a lack of mechanical sympathy

cv129

Adding that to my vocabulary.

__________________
Setrab | RE-71 | SPL | JRZ | Nismo | ARK | Whiteline | RacingBrake | CJM Oil Pan | Ti shield

Jhill

That is possibility that it got oil starved as even if he was on an extremely long intervals repeatedly (which 8k really isn't by today's standards) the engine still only has less than 100k. Seen plenty of others (not specifically 370z) doing extended intervals to the point of being abusive and using cheap *** conventional oils and they were not blowing bottom ends in less than 100k, most times you'll have sludge issues before you have worn bearings. So odds are more likely oil starvation and since American (most) and Japanese cars don't have oil level sensors, only a lot of German (not all) then it's really too late by the time the warning buzzer sounds.

So back to OP post. If it is just worn bearings and no cylinder wall damage you may be able to save your engine. It won't be cheap but cheaper than a new engine. Engine will have to be torn down and inspected and see if any crank journals are scored, then replace the bearings and check clearence with plasti gauge. In a perfect world you will always have the crank polished but in reality sometimes it is not done (e46 m3 conn rod bearings anyone?). At less than 100k your rings are probably still seating just fine but it would be wise to do a leak down test on all cylinder BEFORE you tear down the engine.

cv129

Don't y'all know by now talking engine specific terms to OP is like playing piano to a cow?

He just went in for a late oil change and tech said he needed a new engine. Sounds perfectly normal and surely "there is nothing more to the story"....

And he still hasn't disclosed just exactly what is broken. All he said was a keyword "bearing". He didn't say how, he didn't mention symptoms. And a $11k engine transplant and he doesn't have any written estimates on details, just words from the tech...

__________________
Setrab | RE-71 | SPL | JRZ | Nismo | ARK | Whiteline | RacingBrake | CJM Oil Pan | Ti shield

Jhill

Lol true. I guess I should put have them do a leak down test before they tear down the engine would be a better answer. Just trying to keep it civil for the op.

cv129

__________________
Setrab | RE-71 | SPL | JRZ | Nismo | ARK | Whiteline | RacingBrake | CJM Oil Pan | Ti shield

Larso1

Yah, I'm with you. Something smells like rotten fish here. This is the reason new, young drivers are usually given a beater to learn on. I mean come on, it's a Nissan, not a Fiat. Lots of reliability history with the Z.