370Z oil cooler necessary?

jwick · 08-25-2016, 09:33 AM

I guess this is where my quote gets inserted, 'Friends don't let friends put Mishimoto parts on their cars!'

flyfish · 08-25-2016, 10:06 AM

Opinions on the AAM water based oil cooler? It looks like it uses the 150 degree Mishimoto housing.

Assume I would not put the Mishimoto part on based on everything I have read. Water or air cooled?

Chuck33079 · 08-25-2016, 10:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flyfish

Opinions on the AAM water based oil cooler? It looks like it uses the 150 degree Mishimoto housing.

Assume I would not put the Mishimoto part on based on everything I have read. Water or air cooled?

The AAM kit concerns me since it doesn't have a thermostatic sandwich plate. Also, the factory oil to water cooler on 2012+ Zs is a band aid, so I'm not sure why theirs would be any different.

JARblue · 08-25-2016, 10:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flyfish

Water or air cooled?

Air. No need for any discussion.

flyfish · 08-25-2016, 10:27 AM

Thanks, Z1 for me.

roadie · 09-04-2016, 12:42 PM

So, just curious, I went to some other forms to see what their discussions were about as far as oil temp (bmw, corvette, Porsche, etc), and normal seems to be anywhere from 220-260. Where did the assessment of 250 or so being abnormal come from? Driving up the mountains the other day I saw 245 max, and in town can vary between 210 and 230 typically, on an average day at 85 degrees.

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SouthArk370Z · 09-04-2016, 01:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by roadie

... normal seems to be anywhere from 220-260. Where did the assessment of 250 or so being abnormal come from? Driving up the mountains the other day I saw 245 max, and in town can vary between 210 and 230 typically, on an average day at 85 degrees.

Most synthetic oils still do an adequate (not great, but good enough) job of lubricating up to 300F. But the engine itself will not handle temps that high - pre-ignition becomes a problem at elevated temps, plus aluminum engines don't handle high temps very well. The "250 or so" figure is based on "normal" operating temps, where the nannies start to kick in, how important driver thinks oil temp is, etc.

bendchef · 09-05-2016, 12:49 PM

I added a 25 row Setrab Oil Cooler and a Thermostatic Plate to my system and it cured my overheating problems. Hell I even added the Magical Radiator cap that runs a slightly higher pressure. IMO they are a needed addition unless you live somewhere very cold. I'm in the Portland area and the Z was still getting hot!

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Spooler · 09-05-2016, 01:47 PM

If you have a 2012 and up Z with the factory oil stabilizer the best kit is from Fast Intentions. It has everything you need to remove the factory unit and install a Setrab with an thermostatic plate.

Jayhovah · 09-05-2016, 01:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spooler

If you have a 2012 and up Z with the factory oil stabilizer the best kit is from Fast Intentions. It has everything you need to remove the factory unit and install a Setrab with an thermostatic plate.

Really! I wonder if they will just sell me a delete kit for the OEM cooler. I'll have to keep them in mind.

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axmea? · 09-06-2016, 12:44 AM

I have a '12 and want to take off the factory sandwich plate. So quick question to those who've done the by pass. I'm assuming you connect 12 and 13 as shown below. I have not gone underneath to look at it specifically so how is it connected? I've searched but could not find anything specifically showing how it is done for '12+ models.

[IMG]

oil cooler by Raf, on Flickr[/IMG]

Spooler · 09-06-2016, 01:42 PM

Yes, it is 12 and 13 per your diagram. You will need the All-thread piece that threads into the block so you can attach your thermostatic housing. It is the piece that is used on the 2009-2011 engines to attach the oil filter.

axmea? · 09-06-2016, 02:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spooler

Yes, it is 12 and 13 per your diagram. You will need the All-thread piece that threads into the block so you can attach your thermostatic housing. It is the piece that is used on the 2009-2011 engines to attach the oil filter.

Thanks Spooler. Doesn't the Mocal thermostatic plate come with that piece already? Also how is 12 and 13 connected i.e. hose length and the required fittings?

Spooler · 09-06-2016, 07:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by axmea?

Thanks Spooler. Doesn't the Mocal thermostatic plate come with that piece already? Also how is 12 and 13 connected i.e. hose length and the required fittings?

The FI kit does. I am not sure if it does if you just get the Mocal thermostatic plate. I am also not sure of the length of hose. I left those 2 pieces on my old car that got totaled and just took off the plate, lines, and cooler.

bombdefuzer · 09-06-2016, 08:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZeeBabar

A lot if it is bull. If you do not race or track, there is no need for an oil cooler. I don't race or track. On the highway, I do take a 500 mile week end trip almost every week, I consistently drive at 75-80 with occasional bursts up to 115 and after my trips, the average shows I drove between 70-80 mph and the oil never crosses over 220, generally remains at 200 or below.

My friend has 80k on his 2013 Z and he drives similarly.

If you are on these forums, you can get convinced you need stuff that you can really do without.

Like Black Plastidip

08-25-2016, 09:33 AM	#46 (permalink)
jwick A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Houston Posts: 14,532 Drives: '10 G37 6MT Rep Power: 2465057	I guess this is where my quote gets inserted, 'Friends don't let friends put Mishimoto parts on their cars!' __________________ '10 G37T 6MT Graphite/Graphite - BP - G37T Build

08-25-2016, 10:06 AM	#47 (permalink)
flyfish Base Member Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Morrison CO Posts: 64 Drives: '16 Sport 6m Rep Power: 12	Opinions on the AAM water based oil cooler? It looks like it uses the 150 degree Mishimoto housing. Assume I would not put the Mishimoto part on based on everything I have read. Water or air cooled? __________________ 2016 Sport 6sp Deep Blue Pearl \|\| AAM intake \|\| FI TDX non-res CF + HF-Cats \|\| TEIN MonoSport w/EFDC-II \|\| Hotchkis sways \|\| Z1 34 row oil + ps cooler + diff cover + oil pan spacer \|\| TWM Short Shifter \|\| SPL everything \|\| MA-MS diff cooler \|\| Stillen brake duct \|\| ++

08-25-2016, 10:27 AM	#50 (permalink)
flyfish Base Member Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Morrison CO Posts: 64 Drives: '16 Sport 6m Rep Power: 12	Thanks, Z1 for me. __________________ 2016 Sport 6sp Deep Blue Pearl \|\| AAM intake \|\| FI TDX non-res CF + HF-Cats \|\| TEIN MonoSport w/EFDC-II \|\| Hotchkis sways \|\| Z1 34 row oil + ps cooler + diff cover + oil pan spacer \|\| TWM Short Shifter \|\| SPL everything \|\| MA-MS diff cooler \|\| Stillen brake duct \|\| ++

09-05-2016, 12:49 PM	#53 (permalink)
bendchef Base Member Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: Vancouver, Wa Posts: 42 Drives: 2009 370z Touring MT Rep Power: 9	I added a 25 row Setrab Oil Cooler and a Thermostatic Plate to my system and it cured my overheating problems. Hell I even added the Magical Radiator cap that runs a slightly higher pressure. IMO they are a needed addition unless you live somewhere very cold. I'm in the Portland area and the Z was still getting hot! Sent from my LGMS550 using Tapatalk __________________ 2009 Solid Red Touring $ Stillen Front Fascia $ Berk Hfc's $ Nismo S Tune Free Flow Exhaust $ Z1 Ported Intake Plenum $ Stillen Gen 3 Intake $ Setrab 25 Row Oil Cooler $ Uprev Tune $ Sprint Booster Throttle Enhancer $ RJM Performance Clutch Pedal $ Upgraded Z Speed Clutch Slave Cylinder $ Torque Pro OBD2

09-06-2016, 12:44 AM	#56 (permalink)
axmea? A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: SoCal Posts: 6,236 Drives: WELL ZED PW 6MT Rep Power: 53241	I have a '12 and want to take off the factory sandwich plate. So quick question to those who've done the by pass. I'm assuming you connect 12 and 13 as shown below. I have not gone underneath to look at it specifically so how is it connected? I've searched but could not find anything specifically showing how it is done for '12+ models. [IMG]oil cooler by Raf, on Flickr[/IMG] __________________ >MyZ's Album< NISMO Convert/ECUTEK/Takeda CAI/F.I. HFC NR CB Carbon/F.I. 34 Row Oil Cooler/4.08 Final Drive /Powertrix+Swifts/Hotchkis/SPL/Whiteline/TWM/Zoom Engineering/EVO-R/AeroJacket Vented CF Fenders + CF Spoiler/Avant Garde-WORK/NST/Morimoto Halo/STi Clear Lenses/Carbon Signal Automotive/RJM Performance/ZSpeed Clutch Flywheel CSC delete

09-04-2016, 12:42 PM	#51 (permalink)
roadie Base Member Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: Redlands, CA Posts: 42 Drives: Honda Ridgeline Rep Power: 9	So, just curious, I went to some other forms to see what their discussions were about as far as oil temp (bmw, corvette, Porsche, etc), and normal seems to be anywhere from 220-260. Where did the assessment of 250 or so being abnormal come from? Driving up the mountains the other day I saw 245 max, and in town can vary between 210 and 230 typically, on an average day at 85 degrees. Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk

09-05-2016, 01:47 PM	#54 (permalink)
Spooler A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Ga Posts: 13,837 Drives: 2013 Nismo 370z Rep Power: 2684392	If you have a 2012 and up Z with the factory oil stabilizer the best kit is from Fast Intentions. It has everything you need to remove the factory unit and install a Setrab with an thermostatic plate.

09-06-2016, 01:42 PM	#57 (permalink)
Spooler A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Ga Posts: 13,837 Drives: 2013 Nismo 370z Rep Power: 2684392	Yes, it is 12 and 13 per your diagram. You will need the All-thread piece that threads into the block so you can attach your thermostatic housing. It is the piece that is used on the 2009-2011 engines to attach the oil filter. axmea? likes this.

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