Nissan 370Z Forum
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Nissan 370Z Forum (http://www.the370z.com/)
-   Nissan 370Z General Discussions (http://www.the370z.com/nissan-370z-general-discussions/)
-   -   370Z oil cooler necessary? (http://www.the370z.com/nissan-370z-general-discussions/115990-370z-oil-cooler-necessary.html)

SouthArk370Z 08-24-2016 10:03 AM
Can't remember where I read it (probably one of my ex-wife's text books when she was studying for her PhD Psych) but it seems to apply here - "the best predictor of future behavior is past behavior."

JARblue 08-25-2016 07:33 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mishimoto (Post 3543065)
Hey Chuck33079,

Thank you for the post.

I would like to apologize if you had a bad experience with us as that is not how we do business here at Mishimoto. We would like to correct any issues you or your friends may have had. If you could please contact us at Support@Mishimoto.com and briefly describe what events took place, we will be happy to work on a resolution for you.

Best Regards,
Mishimoto
:roflpuke2: And just what are you going to do? Offer to send them another o-ring to fix the motor that blew after your umpteenth thermostatic plate failed and dumped their oil all over the road? :shakes head:


:gtfo2: with that $hit

Chuck33079 08-25-2016 07:37 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by JARblue (Post 3543594)
:roflpuke2: And just what are you going to do? Offer to send them another o-ring to fix the motor that blew after your umpteenth thermostatic plate failed and dumped their oil all over the road? :shakes head:


:gtfo2: with that $hit
:roflpuke2:

The funny part is that his post is pretty much copied and pasted from every other time one of their customers had a problem and they wanted to appear like they gave a damn. Even their posts are knockoffs.

mishuko 08-25-2016 08:01 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuck33079 (Post 3543598)
:roflpuke2:

The funny part is that his post is pretty much copied and pasted from every other time one of their customers had a problem and they wanted to appear like they gave a damn. Even their posts are knockoffs.
Hi Chuck!

Thank you for your feedback!

At this time, we are currently swamped with inquiries and ask you for your patience. Your file has been added to the blue filing cabinet labeled 'Recycling'. It gets cleared out every day so don't worry!

Have a bad day

Jayhovah 08-25-2016 08:05 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by mishuko (Post 3543605)
Hi Chuck!

Thank you for your feedback!

At this time, we are currently swamped with inquiries and ask you for your patience. Your file has been added to the blue filing cabinet labeled 'Recycling'. It gets cleared out every day so don't worry!

Have a bad day
Your handle is close enough to Mishimoto that I actually thought they posted this for a second. Lolz!

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

jwick 08-25-2016 08:33 AM
I guess this is where my quote gets inserted, 'Friends don't let friends put Mishimoto parts on their cars!'

flyfish 08-25-2016 09:06 AM
Opinions on the AAM water based oil cooler? It looks like it uses the 150 degree Mishimoto housing.

Assume I would not put the Mishimoto part on based on everything I have read. Water or air cooled?

Chuck33079 08-25-2016 09:15 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by flyfish (Post 3543640)
Opinions on the AAM water based oil cooler? It looks like it uses the 150 degree Mishimoto housing.

Assume I would not put the Mishimoto part on based on everything I have read. Water or air cooled?
The AAM kit concerns me since it doesn't have a thermostatic sandwich plate. Also, the factory oil to water cooler on 2012+ Zs is a band aid, so I'm not sure why theirs would be any different.

JARblue 08-25-2016 09:20 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by flyfish (Post 3543640)
Water or air cooled?
Air. No need for any discussion.

flyfish 08-25-2016 09:27 AM
Thanks, Z1 for me.

roadie 09-04-2016 11:42 AM
So, just curious, I went to some other forms to see what their discussions were about as far as oil temp (bmw, corvette, Porsche, etc), and normal seems to be anywhere from 220-260. Where did the assessment of 250 or so being abnormal come from? Driving up the mountains the other day I saw 245 max, and in town can vary between 210 and 230 typically, on an average day at 85 degrees.

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SouthArk370Z 09-04-2016 12:45 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by roadie (Post 3548130)
... normal seems to be anywhere from 220-260. Where did the assessment of 250 or so being abnormal come from? Driving up the mountains the other day I saw 245 max, and in town can vary between 210 and 230 typically, on an average day at 85 degrees.
Most synthetic oils still do an adequate (not great, but good enough) job of lubricating up to 300F. But the engine itself will not handle temps that high - pre-ignition becomes a problem at elevated temps, plus aluminum engines don't handle high temps very well. The "250 or so" figure is based on "normal" operating temps, where the nannies start to kick in, how important driver thinks oil temp is, etc.

bendchef 09-05-2016 11:49 AM
I added a 25 row Setrab Oil Cooler and a Thermostatic Plate to my system and it cured my overheating problems. Hell I even added the Magical Radiator cap that runs a slightly higher pressure. IMO they are a needed addition unless you live somewhere very cold. I'm in the Portland area and the Z was still getting hot!

Sent from my LGMS550 using Tapatalk

Spooler 09-05-2016 12:47 PM
If you have a 2012 and up Z with the factory oil stabilizer the best kit is from Fast Intentions. It has everything you need to remove the factory unit and install a Setrab with an thermostatic plate.

Jayhovah 09-05-2016 12:49 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spooler (Post 3548475)
If you have a 2012 and up Z with the factory oil stabilizer the best kit is from Fast Intentions. It has everything you need to remove the factory unit and install a Setrab with an thermostatic plate.
Really! I wonder if they will just sell me a delete kit for the OEM cooler. I'll have to keep them in mind.

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axmea? 09-05-2016 11:44 PM
I have a '12 and want to take off the factory sandwich plate. So quick question to those who've done the by pass. I'm assuming you connect 12 and 13 as shown below. I have not gone underneath to look at it specifically so how is it connected? I've searched but could not find anything specifically showing how it is done for '12+ models.

[IMG]https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8559/2...9b8a0bc6_b.jpgoil cooler by Raf, on Flickr[/IMG]

Spooler 09-06-2016 12:42 PM
Yes, it is 12 and 13 per your diagram. You will need the All-thread piece that threads into the block so you can attach your thermostatic housing. It is the piece that is used on the 2009-2011 engines to attach the oil filter.

axmea? 09-06-2016 01:06 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spooler (Post 3548891)
Yes, it is 12 and 13 per your diagram. You will need the All-thread piece that threads into the block so you can attach your thermostatic housing. It is the piece that is used on the 2009-2011 engines to attach the oil filter.
Thanks Spooler. Doesn't the Mocal thermostatic plate come with that piece already? Also how is 12 and 13 connected i.e. hose length and the required fittings?

Spooler 09-06-2016 06:53 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by axmea? (Post 3548897)
Thanks Spooler. Doesn't the Mocal thermostatic plate come with that piece already? Also how is 12 and 13 connected i.e. hose length and the required fittings?
The FI kit does. I am not sure if it does if you just get the Mocal thermostatic plate. I am also not sure of the length of hose. I left those 2 pieces on my old car that got totaled and just took off the plate, lines, and cooler.

bombdefuzer 09-06-2016 07:53 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeeBabar (Post 3533648)
A lot if it is bull. If you do not race or track, there is no need for an oil cooler. I don't race or track. On the highway, I do take a 500 mile week end trip almost every week, I consistently drive at 75-80 with occasional bursts up to 115 and after my trips, the average shows I drove between 70-80 mph and the oil never crosses over 220, generally remains at 200 or below.

My friend has 80k on his 2013 Z and he drives similarly.

If you are on these forums, you can get convinced you need stuff that you can really do without.
Like Black Plastidip :rofl2:

BehindSpace 09-25-2016 03:26 PM
you dont need an oil cooler if you run a good synthetic oil like amsoil as long as you dont go above 320 degrees F, the only thing is you need to raise the limp mode protection in the ecu to 320 also i dont know if it is tuneable, 320 is where you get the warning light to slow down for corvettes and and you need to get your oil above 212 every time you driv to evapporate water and contamination
if you are between 212 and 320 every time you drive you are ok and dont need anything, if you want buffer be between 225 and 300

Spooler 09-25-2016 07:23 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by BehindSpace (Post 3557927)
you dont need an oil cooler if you run a good synthetic oil like amsoil as long as you dont go above 320 degrees F, the only thing is you need to raise the limp mode protection in the ecu to 320 also i dont know if it is tuneable, 320 is where you get the warning light to slow down for corvettes and and you need to get your oil above 212 every time you driv to evapporate water and contamination
if you are between 212 and 320 every time you drive you are ok and dont need anything, if you want buffer be between 225 and 300
You hit limp mode at 260 deg with our cars. Why in the world would you want to raise that limit. That makes no sense. I run amsoil and our cars destroy the oil really quick. I dare not go over 5000 mile oil change intervals. I do them at 4000 miles. Our cars start pulling timing at around 220 deg. If you just daily drive, you will not have any issues with the 2012 and up. If you go to the Dragon or do track days your best beat is to get an aftermarket oil cooler.


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